New to the Com-pac 16-2 with a motor mount question . . .

[Ramblinguy]

Hello all!  My name is Randy, from Denton, Texas.  I just bought a compact 16 and am trying to get her back in the water.  Bought it from an estate sale, no title, was given the wrong mast, but got it for $500 so I'm happy!  Anyway, I bought a 7.5 hp Ted Johnson motor and it seems too close to the transom, see pics.  Any ideas??  This is the first boat I've had to have an outboard on so I'm pretty inexperienced.  See pics.  Many, many thanks!

[mikew]

Hi Randy, congrats on your boat, I am sure you will enjoy the 16. I have had a British Seagull, Evinrude and now Yamaha outboard on my 16, and it seems all of them have a folding steering arm with pivot point about the middle axis of the engine. This allows clearance for both up and down motor positions.
In your case maybe try to modify the steering arm ? OR use spacers and longer bolts between the
plywood board and motor mount for clearance.  Plan B, if you ever get another motor the 16 likes a lighter weight outboard, 2- 4 hp will work nicely.

Mike

[Gerry]

Congrats.  We have enjoyed the home of D. Eisenhower many times.  Assume you will sail on Lake Texoma.  I had the same problem you have.  All I did was at two 2x6 green treated boards to the back of the mount.  Extra long bolts.  This backed the mount back far enough to make the mount work well.  Their is a help site somewhere here that shows pix of the same thing using heavy rubber mounts.

Gerry

[marc]

I did the same as Gerry and added a shim between the motor mount and transom. I used HDPE that is used in many plastic cutting boards. Here is a photo.
Marc

[ddg23]

Randy the motor looks exactly like a lawn mower motor I use to have.  Could this be true?

[kickingbug1]

    im sure that the clr sailors will look at your motor and think of my classic  cruise n carry 2.7 hp weedeater slash outboard

[Ramblinguy]

Everyone, thank you so much for the input on this issue that has been puttering around in my head (get it?).  I like the idea of building the mount out a bit from the hull, think I'll see if I can do it.  I'm putting everything on hold until I get a title, fighting that red tape issue now, making progress, but not wanting to spend a lot on the boat until I'm sure it's mine to keep.  It's hard for me to let her sit without doing SOMETHING, so maybe this small project will keep my idle hands busy and away from more expensive undertakings.  Thank you again!  Randy

[Salty19]

    im sure that the clr sailors will look at your motor and think of my classic  cruise n carry 2.7 hp weedeater slash outboard

Your cruise and carry has been poked at by many, but she is a really nice little unit for a CP16 or similar.

Ramblin, Does the steering arm tilt up?  If not, that's a problem. You don't want the motor out too far, the balance will be way off, she won't sail too well and hard to control the motor hanging so far back. Hopefully the arm can tilt or sell the motor for one that can, 2-4hp. 

[Ramblinguy]

Yes, it does tilt up but still bumps the transom.  I friend suggested a 45 thrust electric motor would be enough to get me out away from the docks to raise the sails, any thoughts?  It'd be nice to shed the gas tank and not fight with getting her started, ha!

[Potcake boy]

I used a trolling motor on a Picnic Cat I once owned. It worked great and allowed me to place the weight of the battery forward for a better balance that is so important on small boats. The weight of the motor was inconsequential, and it didn't require a lifting bracket. For lake sailing, this could be a very good solution. Make sure you purchase one of those pulsing controllers as opposed to a rheostat. That will improve your range considerably, worth the money.

[Citroen/Dave]

Ron,

Could you give us a little more information on pulsing controllers?  I bought a second deep cycle battery to get my son back up the Potomac for Monday work.  It is amazing how much tidal current takes a battery down when the wind dies, even near the fall line.

Dave

[Mas]

Ron,

Could you give us a little more information on pulsing controllers?  I bought a second deep cycle battery to get my son back up the Potomac for Monday work.  It is amazing how much tidal current takes a battery down when the wind dies, even near the fall line.

Dave

Hey Dave, hope you had a great holiday! Hope you have 2/11/17 marked on the ole calendar for CBMWG 2.0 Bet you could ride with Tim. Ok now to the topic...

A pulse controller (OKA pulse width controllers) vary the power fed to a motor essentially by switching between hi and low a bizzilion times a second vs a variable resistance controller which runs the output through a series of resistors. Bottom line if you think of resistance being a bad thing (except with brakes!) the motor never can seem to feel like it is working on a fully charged battery and much of the power stored is lost in heat dissipation through the resistors (also something brakes have to deal with), thus less range, less power.

I would assume that trolling motors use the PWC type controllers but i have learned to assume little. Might wanna check what yours has.
Meanwhile since we have essentially the same boat, have you considered a 3-4 hp motor? We have an 87' 4hp Suzuki long shaft that runs like a top, starts on the first pull, and if no contrary wind or tide, at full throttle can push the boat past her stern wave so water comes in through the scuppers. More than enough reserve power. It can't weigh more than two batteries and a trolling motor. They do make noise however!

The above suggestion holds true for the OP as 7.5 is kinda overkill for a 16 and know for a fact ours works just fine as far as clearance, power and trim. Never heard of an outboard without a folding handle but maybe they made them. I personally would sell it and get another smaller size, long shaft motor.

[Mas]

oh and forgot to mention to the OP that the pics don't seem to show the motor any closer than ours. I also would not consider adding more width to the mount as that will add to trim issues and be "one more thing" to deal with. Consider a different motor. Being in the Denton area you gotta be able to find a good used in fresh water only motor in the 3-4hp range. If just used on the lakes there then you could go as low as 2-3hp since no issue with tides or currents. Hope this helps. Keep it simple.

[Mas]

well the third time is the charm! Just looked at the other pic that Randy posted and the arm definitely folds. I am afraid you simply need another smaller motor with a long shaft. Good chance the one you now have, which seems to have some age on her, might just decide to retire on you when you need it to work. Good luck and welcome to owning a wonderful small craft!

[Railroad Greg]

I have a 1978 CP-16, and have used a $5 trolling motor that was a 20lb trust. It worked great until head winds where above 10mph.  Yes, $5;  I got it at a yard sale. I only needed it for a few hundred yards to get back into the marina.
  I got a 55lb trust trolling motor from New Port Vessels at Thanks Giving and can handle head winds up to 25mph.  I made a point to test it before I needed to use it, against head winds, getting back to my boat slip. 
The Motor was $199 and free shipping with fast delivery. Talk to Amos, (866)-721-0002, 55lb trust, NV series and has a battery charge indicator on the top of trolling motor.  Also, has 50 amp fuse included, which you may or may not use. The trolling motor has 5 forward and 3 reverse speeds.  Speeds 1-3 will push a CP-16, 1978 model for a long time with head winds 15mph or less.  Speeds 4 & 5 will push the boat good in 20 - 25 mph winds but I wouldn't expect a marine battery to last for more than an hour at number 5 speed.  This is just my experience, so test your boat and motor setup before you really need it to get you out of a pickle. 
  Anyway, I hope this post helps someone looking at the pros and cons between gas or electric. I think any 55lb trust trolling motor should work for a CP-16.  I don't have the long range that gas motors do but I have the power I need at the turn of my wrist.