Battery location space

[Patrick]

I'm looking to upgrade the batteries on my boat as I've increased the power usage.  I'm not near the boat right now and can't really measure things.  I'd like to have the batteries purchased before I go down to the boat. 

What are the general dimensions of the battery "hole"?  I read that someone put two group 27 batteries in after shaving the handles (an acceptable solution for me).  That would indicate 24' or so.  Is that accurate?

I have two Group 24 Optima's installed now and am thinking that I could just add in a group 31 from lifeline batteries upgrading from 55 to 125 amp hr's.  I'd leave the second Group 24 in there for the engine.

Any thoughts, concerns, ideas?

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
I was able to fit two group 27 deep cycle batteries in there by trimming off the handles on the sides of the batteries with a hacksaw blade and cleaning up the cuts with a flat file. Good part is the extra battery capacity, bad side is you have to give up the battery boxes. Has not been a problem for me but I'm sure some members would not approve of the elimination of the boxes. My decision was to go with the bigger batteries. You might be able to do the one group 24 and one group 31...let me know. I prefer to keep all the batteries the same. I have a third group 27 (yes, that one is in a battery box) up front under the vburth on the starboard side for the windless. That one is separated from the electrical system and charged with a solar panel and regulator, works fine. Good luck.
Bruce
S/V Allure
Swansea, MA

[relamb]

I have a group 24 starting battery and a group 27 deep cycle under the step.  I installed a battery box and tiedown behind the engine on the starboard side, which holds a second group 27 deep cycle.
Rick

[Patrick]

I have a group 24 starting battery and a group 27 deep cycle under the step.  I installed a battery box and tiedown behind the engine on the starboard side, which holds a second group 27 deep cycle.
Rick

I saw that mod but I cannot do it as I have my Racor filter and water strainer located there.  I also don't want the weight back that far either.  The boat is stern heavy.  I'm considering putting two batteries in the forward vberth but need to do some measurements and analysis of pros/cons.  That would be a long way to run power cables back to the main feed.

I don't have boxes underneath the step as its technically covered up already.  I think I can get two 31's in there but I need to know specific dimensions.  I may start with one 31 and then see if I have room for the second.

Alluresail: What brand type 27 do you have?  I could get the specific specs from there.

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
Luck has it the batteries are down cellar on a piece of plywood for the winter.
Measurements are:
Length = 12"
Width = 6-3/4"
Height = 9-1/4"
They are Walmart deep cycle group 27 marine batteries. I usually get four years out of them. One winter I left them in the boat (MA) and they must have froze because they would not charge up in the spring....lesson learned.
The length measurement is with the side handles cut flush and neatly cleaned up with a big flat file.
I almost put a group 31 up front for the windless but decided to keep them all the same, just in case I had to swap them around.
Good luck.
Bruce
S/V Allure

[Tney88]

Some questions for Bruce of S/V Allure: 

How has the remote battery for the windlass worked out?  How many times can you hoist the anchor before the battery level is too low?  I'm thinking of a situation where you are having to make multiple tries at getting an anchor to set.  What make/model of windlass do you have?  What model and weight anchor do you have, and what is the size and length of your chain and rode? 

Sorry to plague you with questions, but we had some bad experiences with dragging anchors in the San Juan and Gulf Islands last year, and I"m about to make some serious upgrades to my ground tackle, including adding a windlass. changing the choice of anchor, and increasing the chain in my rode.

Regards and thanks in advance,

Terry Ney
S/V Paradiso
Veneta, OR

[BobK]

I have been following a person that calls himself Maine Sail on a number of forums that has an excellent website www.marinehowto.com.  in that site he recently did an evaluation of batteries under the "what is a deep cycle battery".  This is worth the read before your next battery purchase.

BobK

[Patrick]

I have been following a person that calls himself Maine Sail on a number of forums that has an excellent website www.marinehowto.com.  in that site he recently did an evaluation of batteries under the "what is a deep cycle battery".  This is worth the read before your next battery purchase.

BobK

Yes, I think many of us have.  I just purchased a 40a smart battery charger from him to replace my stock 15amp one.  For phase one of my project I'm going to put two T105 (6v golf cart batteries) in the main space as the "house" and then re-locate one of the 24's as the backup engine battery.  Those will be hooked up to the new charger and I have a solar panel for the house setup as well.  That will update me from 55 to 217ah. 

Phase II, when I get back north and have more time, will be to find a location for two more of the T105's.  I'd then create a bank of 4 6 volt batteries and 435ah of capacity.  At this point I'd have no issues with high-power load under sail.

I appreciate the information received over the last few days.

[Allure2sail]

Hi Terry:
Final anchor setup is 125 feet of !/4" chain and a 22lb Delta fortress anchor. The windless is a Maxwell, the smallest vertical model, and has worked fine. I had a problem with my first anchoring setup, the 125 feet of line kept bunching up in the windless and would start to slip and chew up the line. Once I got to the chain it was fine. I think in retrospect it was the way the line was falling into the anchor locker that was the problem. It was not a smooth transition like I should have made it. I have never had a problem raising or lowing the anchor (power out and in). You can not use the windless to pull the boat to the anchor. I power the boat forward at idle for about 15 or 20 seconds then pull in chain for 15 or 20 seconds. Once the anchor is free you can pull longer with the boat in forward gear. Interesting point, the chain goes out at one foot per second so if you count to yourself you know how much chain is out. The last 20 feet is painted bright orange and the first 10 feet is painted bright red. When the red shows up I know the anchor is about to come onto the bow roller. Another thing I've leaned is when I see the red to put the boat in reverse for 10 to 20 feet to rinse the mud off the anchor, it works pretty well !! When anchoring I also put a dock line bridle with a hook onto the chain and cleat that off so that I have some shock absorption with the setup. I do have a swivel at the anchor end of the chain, it may not really do anything beneficial but I had one already.
After thoughts:
I would have liked to use 5/16s or 3/8 chain but would have needed the next bigger windless model. Get as much chain as you can possibly afford, at least the twice the length of the boat. Also get a extra long splice done on the transition. I will most likely be going to a new generation anchor this season, perhaps a Manta.
Battery power:
Have never run out of electric power. One time I tried three different spots in a row. REMEMBER...I DON"T PULL THE BOAT TO THE ANCHOR WITH THE WINDLESS. I drive it forward with the engine and retrieve the chain and anchor with the windless. The anchor with my boat has to be pulled into the anchor roller by hand, my setup will not work with power. I power it up to the swivel and load it into it's resting place by hand. I have a cross pin thru the chain to secure it there.
Good luck, hope I was some help.
Bruce
S/V Allure