News:

Howdy, Com-Pac'ers!
Hope you'll find the Forum to be both a good resource and
a place to make sailing friends.
Jump on in and have fun, folks! :)
- CaptK, Crewdog Barque, and your friendly CPYOA Moderators

Main Menu

Centerboard only extends 2/3rds of the way down

Started by Christopher, October 17, 2015, 10:52:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Christopher

Last November I participated in the Suncat National Regatta in Punta Gorda, Fl.  Scott from Atlanta whom is a two time world champion winner of past Regatta races crewed with me. While sailing he realized there was a problem with the handling characteristics of my boat.  I didn't know any better since I have only sailed mine and if it is moving forward I'm happy.  Upon further evaluation he determined my centerboard was not all the way down.  He being much more competitive than I jumped in the water and dove under the boat and pushed the centerboard completely out.  It didn't help because we didn't win.  Tom Ray got the win.
  So from last November till now I have sailed with the centerboard 2/3rds of the way down or if it is convenient I dive under the boat and push it all the way out.  I finally rigged up a way to hoist the boat in the air so I could investigate what the problem is. The issue is the pads that are attached to each side of the centerboard are rubbing too tightly against the top end of the stainless steel box.  My Suncat is a 2003 model and it has the fiberglass trunk with the stainless steel box unit that includes the centerboard and pivot bolt as a unit.  This box is held in place by several screws in the bottom of the keel.  The box is approximately 8" high and is open at the top.  The top of the box width is slightly less than the bottom width which is the root cause of the problem.  When the pads contact the top edge of the box the excessive friction causes the board from completely extending all the way.  I contacted the factory and was told they had never heard of this problem before.  Also the trunk is super clean with no barnicles etc.  After consultation I decided to remove the SS box.  I took all of the screws out and carefully began trying to force the box out.  I quickly gave up on that because it was not budging from the prying I was doing.  I didn't want to bend or break anything and I assumed the adhesive/sealant  that was used would make it very difficult to remove.  The next thing I did was force a board up into the box with the hope it would spread the box width out which it did until the board was withdrawn then it would spring back.  Next I attached a file to a board and filed the top edge on both sides.   That seemed to help some.  Then I cycled the centerboard up and down several times which seemed to help some.  I also sprayed silicone lubricant onto the pads and that helped.  By the time I was all done I could release the centerboard and with it's momentum it would open all the way.  After that I concluded I did all I could and stopped.  Soon after I took the boat to the lake and released the centerboard making sure the rope didn't catch and I heard a nice thump telling me it opened all the way.  I released it again the following day at the lake and I didn't get the thump sound but I could tell by the rope length it was almost fully extended.
  Does or has anyone else had this problem?   I also wonder if this boat has always had this problem?
Thanks for reading all of this,

Chris
"Second Wind"




kevnh

Hi Chris, that's a strange problem.
I have a 2002 Suncat with the same centerboard design.  On mine the "pads" on either side of the centerboard clearly have enough play that I could not imaging them restricting the centerboard's motion.
I wonder if maybe your concrete ballast has gotten saturated and expanded enough to put some pressure and flex on the sides of the fiberglass centerboard trunk?

Your post confirmed for me something I have come to suspect, that the screws at the bottom of the centerboard flange are not really mechanically holding it into place, rather it is held there by adhesive.  As you have seen they are just sheet metal screws through the fiberglass.  Too bad Hutchins didn't make a design that was a little more servicable.  I am in the process of replacing those screws since many are corroded and seem to be a source of water ingress into the boat.

Glad you have made some progress on the issue and are able to sail anyway,

Kevin
SunCat Hull #111 (2002)
"ISA"

Peter Dubé

Chris, did you check the board to make sure it is not bent?
Compac Sun Cat
s/v Sun Daze
Vero Beach  FL

Craig

#3
The "pads" you refer to are sacrificial zinc anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion. It is possible that the PO replaced them with zincs that are thicker than the originals. Also check that the bolts which attach the zincs are not protruding too far and binding. Be VERY cautious about abusing the CB trunk. You could wind up causing more problems. Try removing the zincs temporarily and see if that helps. If you dry sail the boat in fresh water the zincs are not a critical issue in the short term. By the way, the sawhorse supports you are using are a little scary. Be careful, that's a lot of weight for them to support!
Craig, Horizon Cat "Kailani"  Punta Gorda, FL

Catawampus

I have a 2003 and have no issues with my centerboard. I don't think the zincs have anything to do with the problem as they are located near the lower end of the board. I agree with you that there are bushings/pads at the upper end of the board designed to limit sideways motion of the board. Congratulations on your solution. Regarding possible leaks in the centerboard trunk allowing water in the boat, I had a problem with water in the bilge. Was not related to the trunk or keel. I resealed the cockpit drains exit holes at the base of the stern on each side. No more leaks. My bilge is now completely dry.

Christopher

Kevnh,
  There is about an 1/8" gap on each side of the SS box sidewalls to the fiberglass trunk sidewalls.  Everything appears to be good with the fiberglass.  At first I suspected the same thing that you state about the concrete pushing in the side but, that is not the case. 
Peter,
  I checked the board and it is nice and straight.
Craig,
  Catawampus is correct the sacrificial anodes are at the tip of the board.  If you zoom in on my photo you can see both of them.  The pads are located at the top of the board on each side.  The anodes are not at all related to my problem.

Thanks for all of your responses.


Craig

I was responding to your comment that you had determined the zincs were binding. ("The issue is the pads that are attached to each side of the centerboard....etc") Having had a Suncat and having replaced the zincs several times I am well aware of their location. If the board drops enough for them to clear the CB trunk they obviously are not the problem. Seems like you have it under control. You may not always get the clunk. Just mark the CB pennant when you know the board is all the way down as a reference. Enjoy your Suncat! ;D
Craig, Horizon Cat "Kailani"  Punta Gorda, FL