Boarding ladder treads fabricated...

[brackish]

...and fitted but not yet installed.  I guess (and those who have done this before jump in) the best way to install is to drill the holes for the screws in the treads and then use them to center punch the tubing prior to drilling.  Doesn't look easy.  I'm also going to assume that it would be very difficult or impossible to do with the boat in the water, so maybe the next haul out.

[Tom L.]

I once saw an eyestrap that goes around the ss ladder tube and is thru bolted to the step pad. The screw heads were recessed in the plastic ladder tread. I think that would work since you have keyed the plastic rung into the ladder vertical tube to keep it from rotating.
Trouble is I haven't been able to find that strap. It has to be like an eye strap but with long legs.

I think it is very hard to drill the ladder tubing. The ss is work harden from the rolling process.

Anybody that may know where to get those eye straps, let us know.

[bruce]

Not sure of the pipe diameter you need, but McMaster-Carr has a variety in 304 SS. Through bolting may not be necessary.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-routing-clamps/=xr7ff9

[brackish]

Most strap clamps are designed to hold a pipe against a flat surface so sized to the full diameter.  My treads have grooves in the bottoms so they won't work.  However, the adjustable cut to length straps shown in the McMaster Carr link look interesting and just might do the trick.  Not so sure about the bottom tread, it doesn't have the side grooves because of the curve.

[Tom L.]

Brackish, maybe you could mill a groove in the underside of the plastic step perpendicular to the metal rung and recess the pipe clamps so that they are the same surface as the groove for the metal rung just where the clamp is. Just thinkin outloud. The 304 pipe clamp material is rather thin so I am not sure how they would work. But you could try one step and you wouldn't have to drill the metal ladder to try out the idea. Maybe worth a try.

Tom L.

[bruce]

Gotcha Brackish, I didn't notice you'd relieved the bottoms. Bending your own would be work. How about brackets made up out of the same plastic (HDPE?). Delrin would be a good alternative, but still easy to machine. McMaster Carr has a good selection of plastics.

[deisher6]

Hey Brackish:
You served as an inspiration, especially the part about, "...impossible to do in the water."  I had a bunch of 3/4 Starbord left over from the replacement of the top of the water tank.  I had made the larger parts into cutting boards, however the Admiral did not like them so I turned them into treads.  Have a bunch of much smaller pieces now.

The first problem was the combined length of the drill and bit fitting between the rungs.  Fortunately I have an old Black & Decker 1/4 inch drill that was my fathers.  It fit between the rungs of the ladder.

Second problem was the tread at the bend in the ladder.  Fabricated two short and three normal treads because of the bottom of the ladder and a shortage of material.  The short rungs were for the top and bottom.  However at the bend in the ladder the 'standard' tread did not fit, the short one did. 

Third problem the top rung.  Be careful not to put a bolt through the inner pipe that the ladder is hinged on.  I am going in 4.5 inches from each end to install the bolts.

Did not get done this afternoon.  Will cut the notch off of a 'standard' rung for use as the top rung and reshape the ends tonight.

Used #22 stove bolts, with dished washers on top, lock washers and regular nuts on the bottom.  Will grind off the excess bolt when finishing up.

End Profile:



Top Look:



Bottom Rung rests on the rudder.



Looking up:



Again Thanks for the Inspiration.

regards charlie

[brackish]

LOL, glad I could help, looks good, I'm also pressing on with this project.  Decided to thru bolt rather than strap.  Took the lower section off and have finished it.  Pic below.  I've rethought the "not able to do it with the boat in the water" and plan to go up in the morning, turn the boat stern to the dock, lift the motor up to the top tilt position and snug it close.  I think I can sit on the floating dock and have a decent work angle to the two upper rungs.

Thanks to Mike Greene for advice on thru drilling the rungs.  Cobalt bits a must, started with a 1/8" pilot, then went to 5/32" for a clearance hole for #10 OHPH machine screw.  Used foot friendly acorn nuts with lock washers on the bottom.  The key to drilling is slow RPM but relatively aggressive feed to make sure that the bit doesn't spin out, heat up the material and work harden.  A little oil helps to keep it cutting and cool. With the 1/8" bit I could fit my small B & D LI driver between the rungs, but coming back with the larger bit I had to come bottom first if there was a rung above it.  Hope that will work OK tomorrow on the dock.

[brackish]

OK, that worked well and the project is finished.  Easier than I thought to install the treads with the boat in the water.  Some Pics: