CDI Furling

[Mike]

After good input from many of you, I have ordered sails and an FF2 furler.  I would like to install eyelets on the life line stanchions rather than penetrate the deck for the support of the furling line leading to the cockpit.  Hutchins lists a furling line in their catalog but without a picture, I have not way to determine if this will work on my planned install..  any comments or experience on this issue would be appreciated.

[Salty19]

I would wait on that..I thought the CDI came with a furler line, but I'm not sure.

If it doesn't, check the instructions for the width of the line.  For the length, you want about 35 feet of line on a CP19.  You'll end up too long so might have to cut it, but this is better than too short.  Plus the extra few feet can be used elsewhere, like reefing ties.   Before you cut it, make sure the sheets wrap around the furler about 3-4 times so its' nice and secure should strong wind attempt to grab the sail.  Also if you are buying a jib and might get a larger genoa someday, leave the line long because you'll need more wraps around the furler to accomodate the larger sail.

Many of us use blocks rather than eyelets. They run a little smoother.  However you're only talking three contact points, so the eyelets will should work Ok and not create too much friction.
However the eyelet for the bow pulpit might be tricky due to the angle of the stainless tubing.  I would suggest eyelets that rotate for the bow or a Schaefer block that pivots and attached via tube clamps (they have a block with all of this included).   Otherwise it will take an abrupt turn and will add friction. Some lines tend to create more friction than others, so I would suggest a smooth line like double braid with a tight weave poly cover as opposed to 3 strand or single braid.   

[brackish]

Eyelets? do you mean fairleads?

My 23 came to me with stanchion mounted blocks (3) going to a ratchet block on the stern pulpit upright, then returning to a dedicated cleat.  It worked well with very little friction, however the blocks have to be mounted on the inside of the stanchion so the line ends up about in the middle of the walkway alongside the cabin and well inside on the foredeck. Always in the way when I walked the deck or when I was cleaning the decks, it was a serious trip hazard.   I recently changed them out and used stanchion mounted fairleads that run the line outside and out of the walkway.  Much better and if more friction is created I certainly don't notice it.  The fairleads are much less expensive than the blocks.  I would plan out the routing before I ordered the stuff. 

They make some blocks that can be mounted outside the stanchion but they are very expensive, comparatively speaking.

Remember when you size the length of your line to give yourself enough extra to get back to the halyard winch.  In higher wind conditions, I find I need to take a wrap or two around the winch when furling.   That also lets you face the sail being furled while you are pulling it in.

[MacGyver]

First off, I think I got 40 feet of line for the furler drum line. my FF2 didnt have that included.
Also, I used Micro blocks and a fairlead with interior hole of SS and it works well... I can get details tomorrow probably.....
It runs basically at stanchion bases so it is not in the way as it will normally sit on the deck then.

I can also see what size line it was tomorrow when i go to work... I cant remember any of it off hand.....

I will snap a few pictures as well.

Mac

[Mike]

Very helpful and the pictures would clarify the install...thank you all.http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?action=unread

[marc]

Here's what I did:
Used a Spinlock stanchion lead block on bow pulpit - model #WL/2.

Needed to put some tape on the stancheon since the lead block is designed for 1" stancheon tubing and my pulpit tubes measure 7/8" diameter.


Used Spinlock lead block model #WL/1 on the 2nd & 3rd stancheons aft of bow pulpit.


Used a Sea-Dog loopcleat fender holder for furling line tie-off. This works as a jam cleat and firmly holds the furling line. This is instead of using the horn cleat that was mounted on the side of my combing. The horn cleat is partially in the image in the lower left corner.


Happy with how this system has worked out.
Marc

[MacGyver]

I have 40 feet of 3/16 line from new England ropes.
2 Harken 417 Micro blocks, they swivel and come with the swivel. 16mm size
and a Johnson Marine Roller furling fairlead, SS insert, Catalog # 40-502

In the pictures, you will see how they mount and such, but take note, in this picture I have it run incorrectly at the bow rail legs..... I think it is supposed to run inside them, I know it is wrong and have been too lazy to fix since that last time I sailed I was in a hurry when I set it up.
I also cut off a little line, but wasnt much, and had about 4 wraps maybe on the drum to start.... maybe 3.
Front deck

First stanchion from bow, Starboard side.

Last stanchion used, has fairlead above, and is a tight lead, but seems to flow well over the SS insert

In this last one, my line seems to go haywire... but it is because on here I have to run it a certain way to accommodate the Bimini when it is used so we aren't changing the line all the time. I cleat off at the cleat by the winch when needed. I might in the future add some kind of other device or something to keep it to itself.... I haven't decided yet....

Mac

[Mike]

This  forum is really of value.  Thank you both for the great pictures which answer most questions.  One final thought, one of you has the furling to port and the other to starboard, any reason or just personal preference?

[Salty19]

I used the schaefer stanchion blocks and a bull eye on the bow, but since changed to a swivel block on the bow. Not all CP19's have the 1" stanchions like our boat does, so they may not work. I suppose you could tape them to increase width to fit.  Really like them, keeps the line off the deck and smooth runnings, mon.



The end passes through a Fairlead cam cleat to secure it.  I tie off the end to my cleats when leaving boat to ensure it doesn't come unfurled.



I choose the starboard side because I didn't want the extra furler line laying in the aft end of cockpit to interfere with the main sheet on port.

[MacGyver]

I picked the starboard like Salty19, to keep some balance to the lines.
It mainly depends on the wrap of your sail if your sail has a sun cover. Mine doesnt so it wont matter how it wraps. the sun cover must wrap properly, so one way will do that and the other way wont.

I don't recommend a suncover on our small boats due to weight and sailing in light winds. I use a Furler sock cover on mine, utilizing the Jib halyard that is left since the CDI unit has a integral halyard.

All personal preference really.

Mac