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Mounting items IN the cabin???

Started by atrometer, March 18, 2014, 03:33:16 PM

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atrometer

I want to mount some items inside on my 1977 CP16.  Very plain inside, painted fiberglass, no liner or wood.  I thought I could adhesive some wooden blocks to the hull in various places and mount items to those (cargo net, gear hammock, bookrack/s, lights, etc.).  Bought some Six10 epoxy someone suggested, but it says to "clamp" the items together.  Any other ideas????

Vipersdad

s/v  "MaryElla"   Com-Pac 19 / II  #436
Iceboat "Red Bird"--Polar Bear 10-Meter, Built 1953

Lake Winnebago, Lake Mendota, Lake Namakagon, Lake Superior.

"To Hutch, Gerry, Buck, and Clarkie--Who made it so much fun.".....Robert F. Burgess, Author-Handbook of Trailer Sailing 1984

JTMeissner

When building a canoe without any fasteners, I attached seat supports to the sides of the canoe using thickened epoxy and just taping them in place.  You don't want so much clamping pressure to squeeze out the epoxy, almost anything that holds it in place until it sets will probably be okay.

Another option would be a truck bed ratcheting bar.  Depending on location/length (I think something like mine would work), you could use this to hold it in place until the epoxy sets.  The feet adjust to some angles.


-Justin

BruceW

Cool ideas; I have a plain interior on my CP 23; maybe I'll use the combo of the blocks and something to hold them against the wall while my adhesive sets.
Bruce Woods
Raleigh: WR 17
New Bern: CP 23

rogerschwake

  I've been using those plastic hooks that just stick on, the good ones with the tab you pull to release them, from the home stores. They stick good  to the fiberglass liner of the cabin and can be removed if the Admiral changes her mind, witch hardly ever happens. Did have one fall off, not sure what the reason was, will other 5 holding strong after 2 years. Have my binoculars hanging from one of these hooks with no problems. Give them a try, I've been real surprised how well they work.

ROGER

skip1930

Remember when your being bounced around via Jet ski wake inside the boat your going to put one of those hooks through your head.

skip.

atrometer

Quote from: Vipersdad on March 18, 2014, 05:05:35 PM
How heavy?

Binoculars, handheld vhf, clothes, first aid case, book shelf/books, etc.

atrometer

Also with the Six10 once you start you have to use it all or throw it away, or get a new mixing nozzle.

Jason

Hi All,

I have found the hull-deck joint to be a good place to use a small screw to attach items to the cabin interior.  Use a short screw that only bites deep enough to hold a bit, and don't use a long screw that goes through the hull-deck joint.  Also don't use one so big that it pushes the hull deck joint apart.  I hung two shelves using this method and also attached my electrical conduit along the port side using this method.  Best to avoid drilling into the hull, in my opinion.  I have hung a light and a fan by through bolting them through the cabin roof.  I have hung some pictures by mounting them in clear, hard plastic cases and using adhesive industrial velcro to hang them to the interior surface.  The small adjustable height, rotatable cabin table has come in very handy; it just holds onto the compression post.  have also screwed a hook into the compression post , from which I hang a small broom and dustpan.



Spring is coming!

-Jason
1981 Compac 16 "Lillyanna"
Currently building SCAMP #349 "Argo"
Build log at www.argobuilder.com

atrometer

Great ideas, and nice looking cabin.  TYVM!  Any help on the screw size would be appreciated.  I guess I also could attach a firing strip(s) at the deck to hull joint b using the Six10 epoxy and "clamping" it with a few small screws. Only negative is I no longer have an excuse to not start doing the work.  Thank you again for the great ides(s)!!

Pacman

I have been saving some short pieces of aluminum F-track that was left over from the installation of storm panels on my house.

The F-track has a channel that accepts 1/4 x 20 bolt heads.

It could be attached using medium strength adhesive so it could be removed later if desired.

It would provide strong attachment points that would be adjustable for mounting stuff in the boat.

I was thinking of using it to make a removable VHF mount.
Com Pac 16: Little Boat, Big Smile

crazycarl

i used some 5200 on the back of a piece of plywood and braced it with a length of scrap wood which i then attached a battery charger to.

i've trailered this boat over 3,000 miles and have sailed her for 9 years and the hold hasn't failed.

i like JT's idea utilizing the cargo holder.

an old extendable shower rod should work too, and it can be cut down if needed.

cc

Oriental, "The Sailing Capitol of North Carolina".

1985 Compac 19/II  "Miss Adventure"
1986 Seidelmann 295  "Sur La Mer"

crazycarl

Quote from: rogerschwake on March 18, 2014, 08:20:53 PM
"if the Admiral changes her mind, witch hardly ever happens."
Quote

roger,

   i'm sure the misspelling of WHICH is purely accidental, however, seeing that you put admiral, her, and witch in the same sentence, i hope for your sake the "admiral" doesn't frequent this forum!

cc

p.s.  you can edit your post
Oriental, "The Sailing Capitol of North Carolina".

1985 Compac 19/II  "Miss Adventure"
1986 Seidelmann 295  "Sur La Mer"

sailen69

#13
Just a note on 6/10.  The mixer tip is a one time use.  You can cap and seal the tube to save the unused part.  The next time you want to mix some up, put the tube back in a caulk gun, take the cap off the tube, squese out how much you need onto a paper plate or cardboard, mix by hand with a popsicle stick and go.  I have found 6/10 very easy to use in multiple small amounts from the same tube.  I don't think it is UV stable.  It is easy to use if you need small amounts and don't need large amounts of epoxy for a major job.

I think that next to the fun and sailing, good orginasion of things makes all the rest so much better.  I would like to see everyone's ideas.

Good luck,

Rich