New Project- Lots of Work Ahead! PICS

[skip1930]

The tabernacle is just a piece of tin. Put her in a vice and clamp on a vice grip and bend her back straight.

The compression post, round or square is just a piece of pine ... hit the local lumber yard. Smack it up there unsecured like and use two Lag screws on the bottom at the 'thwart' wall separating the vee birth/quarter birth. Do not set the compression post on top of the keel. Two fingers of day light for heat and strain expansion.

Clean out the [once already repaired] area on top and underneath of the tabernacle and fill the dry, cleaned void with resign and new plywood and be done with that. I like through bolting with 1/4-20 bolts, washers, and finishing washers and acorn nuts for good looks. The factory just used four 1/4 inch wood screws. Good until the wood rots.

skip.

[Salty19]

I respectfully disagree, skip.

The tabernacle is stainless, not tin, and should be fastened with wood screws, not bolts.  You want it to pull out if a demasting occurs, not pull the glas out of the structure.  It can be straightened with just a vice, and you want even pressure across it.  It you see stress cracks...call Hutchins and get a new one.

The compression post is teak, not pine. The post should butt up tightly up against the cabin top.  Not tight as in jacking the post up with a floor jack tight, but snug nonetheless when the lag bolts are tightened at the bottom of the post. It should not allow the cabin top to move downwards.  While teak is not required, you want a low-expanding hardwood for the post.  Pine is a soft wood and a very poor use in this application, IMHO.  The post should be clear coated in epoxy to prevent humidity changes, and thus prevent expansion (well, minimize it anyway). I don't beleive the factory does this, but me thinks it's a good idea.

Also the repair looks, to me, more than just applying epoxy resin.  Perhaps cutting the area out from underneath, applying a layer of woven roving or perhaps 2-3 layers of 6oz epoxy impregnated fiberglass with wood backing plate, also encased in glass (glass under and over the wood).

[fenderstratman41]

How about the bow eye? (as pictured last). Is there anything that goes between the outside hull and the inside hull liner other than wood shaped to the V of the hull? Does anyone have a picture of how this should look?

[JBC]

Do a search for bow eye on this site.  There's lots of discussion relating to replacing/repairing bow eyes, several with pictures.  Seems wood is not the only backing plate used.  One 16 I owned even had a hard rubber backing plate, with washers between that and the nuts.  Worked well.

[Bob23]

I straightend my mast foot, not easily done but it is possible. Mine was not quite so bad and it hadn't nearly torn off like yours but I was determined not to take the easy way out and order a new one when the old one was repairable.
I'd think almost any wood would work for a compression post. Even pine doesn't expand very much lengthwise...the load here is in compression. Even thought the factory may have used teak, it seems to me a waste of an exotic wood in an area where the loads can't be that great. I've even heard of small boat guys removing the post at night for greater room while bunked down. I'm not sure I'd advocate that in a 16; I'm not sure of the static loads while the boat is resting. A hem fir 2x4 would work fine in a pinch.
Bob23

[Jon898]

I'd take note of brackish's comment about the tabernacles being relatively inexpensive from Hutchins...I'd find out how much and go that route if it's not outrageous (and you can pass the red-face test with the person paying the $$$).

The mangled one is going to be a 300 series stainless and will have already work-hardened quite a bit from the initial deformation.  Bending it back to shape will get progressively tougher as you work the metal further.  IMHO, you may get lucky and get it back into a reasonable approximation of the intended shape, but it's usually a skilled metalworker (with a lot of heavy-duty tools) that can get to that point without resorting to heating to cherry red and then quench-annealing (after which you'd have to repolish the blackened surface).

[Tim Gardner]

See this link: https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=27&familyName=Tabernacles+%26+Pins

A new tabernacle would be under 60 bucks.  Hardly worth the time required to fix the old one ISTM.

TG

[brackish]

See this link: https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=27&familyName=Tabernacles+%26+Pins

A new tabernacle would be under 60 bucks.  Hardly worth the time required to fix the old one ISTM.

TG

Tim I like that one and will get it if mine ever gets mangled.  The feature that I like is that you don't have to pull the pin bolt, it stays in the mast all the time.  a lot easier to rig if you don't have to slide that pin in through the tab, spacers in my case, washers and put a nut on it.  However, in order to get the benefit you have to buy the pin and spacer tube also, and it is about $12-15. 

IIRC the standard tabernacle from Hutchins for my 23 was about $20 plus S&H.  Five years ago.

[Bob23]

If you get a new one, the old one might make a nice napkin holder for the dining room table. Just think how impressed your guests will be! Although it was hard, I'm just cheap enough to straighten my old one. Admittedly, your's is more bent up than mine was.
Bob23

[fenderstratman41]

Alright. Getting down to the nitty gritty. I'll post a few pics of needed repairs. I know very little so "Repair for Dummies" comments are gladly welcome.

#1 The hull liner is falling down. I'm guessing some sort of adhesive to stick it back up. What kind?

[fenderstratman41]

#2 Cabin roof under mast step. Do I need to remove all this fiberglass and replace and redrill? Isn't there also wood between there? If so it's rotted. How do I replace that?

[fenderstratman41]

#3 Compression post and bulkhead. I know I need to replace the cp and it bolts through the bulkhead. But as you can see here, there's some rot on that wood. You can see the light going through underneath and through the middle on the left side. Do I just try to brace this area? I don't think I'd have the skill to totally replace. Plus it seems as if they poured epoxy over all the wood. It's been tough getting them to separate. Do I just cut a slot out to slide the post out?

[fenderstratman41]

#4 Replacing floor planks. Best way to do this? I'm gonna get a pump in there to get the water out obviously, but there's some severe rot in there and I'm afraid of pulling glass while ripping these up.

[Salty19]

Shiver me timbers, that's some serious rot that needs attended to. And black mold. 
Looks like it all needs to be cutout and replaced?

[MacGyver]

I seen this right as I am heading to bed.

My current suggestion, Measure, and draw a schematic of the entire project, wood thickness, etc. Rip it all out and then clean it all out thoroughly.
After replaceing the wood, you TAB the glass back in by tieing the wood to the sides, etc. I would start with the interior, then move to ceilings, etc. ground up so to speak.

Be sure the covering to the keel is in good shape, easy to repair now while you are there. And use a vacuum sander.

It looks like a lot of fun to me, my wife would kill me of course, but I know it is something I would enjoy doing....... which is odd because since I do similar as my actual job, one would think I would go home and not want to be on a boat working......
I would probably cuss it until finished project......

Mac