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Jib/Genoa Sheet Rigging

Started by Geoff, January 21, 2014, 08:16:04 AM

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Geoff

Can you describe how you run your sheets? I'm trying to find a way to reduce friction in my system, and it seems that the winch placement is problematic up on that high cockpit rail, but even with redirecting from side blocks forward of the winches, I'm having a devil of a time controlling about a 115% genoa. The chief problem seems to be that the sheet comes up at such an angle that it binds against the wooden winch plates. Photos would be appreciated, if you have them.

Thank you,
Geoff

skip1930

#1
With my 155% lapper on a CP-19.
Sheets on the outside of EVERYTHING that looks like standing rigging.
Run those blocks BEHIND the winch.
The sheet angle from the clue on the sail to the block should look like the sheet is pointing toward the center of the head sail.
That's it your done.

The sheet out of the block to the winch rubs on my fiberglass and started to cut into the gel coat.
I laid down a pair of ss rub rails from Chris Craft yachts I found in my junk box.


skip.

brackish

I thought I read somewhere that ComPac changed the winch angle at some point along the way with a version change.  If that is true and your boat is pre change you may have to put a teak wedge under the winch for a more favorable lead angle.  Mine is as below, post change if there was one, and as you can see it is still not a perfect run to the block.  I set the block on the track to get a bisect of the luff by the sheet then lead back to the winch.  With the bimini in place, I often have to change the run to miss bimini components when I change from 110 to 135. 

This picture is at rest not sailing, with the sheets attached to the furled sail but you can see the lead.  I run my sheets outside of everything no matter the point of sail.  I think some folks try to come inside when close hauled but never worked for me and too much trouble to relead.


jgsharpe

#3
Same trouble on a 1981 CP23.  Someone suggested adding a second block on the track and that's what I've been using for a couple years.  It stays near the end of the track for a constant angle into the winch.  I use the forward block to adjust genoa trim.  This helped a lot, but not quite all the way.  Like Skip I added SS rub strakes.  Mine are about 6" long mounted on the outside edge of the teak.  I also had trouble with the sheet getting caught between the bottom of the winch and the teak plate so I shaved the base of the winches down about 1/8" to minimize the gap.  I hope to someday replace the winches with self-tailing and add a wedge under the winches to improve the angle.

Jeff
'Some Day'   Com-Pac 23   1981   Hull #164
Sabine Bay Marina     Pensacola Beach, Florida

Geoff

Good feedback, thank you! One thing I realized is that my winches are mounted on wooden blocks that lift the winch another inch off the rails. Bad idea that creates more rubbing at a worse angle!  We are trying to make ours more efficient to do some regattas.

guync5

I have a 1986 CP-23/2 and it is the same as in the photo.

Salty19

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603