CP 16 RUDDER Questions

[Pacman]

Going back to previous disc., a drilled hole with a shock cord of proper length provides a safe alternative, cheap and quick..................no worry about pressure to shear anything, works on my boat....nies

Good point.  A shock cord would work every bit as well as any of the more complicated or risky solutions we have discussed.

I especially like the simplicity and safety of that solution.

Sometimes we seem to overcomplicate things where a simple elegant solution will be the best.

[marc]

A question for those of you using a line or shock cord.
Did you drill the hole in the metal stock or the blade. If on the blade, how far down and how far from the edge? Is your cleat on the rudder head, tiller or transom?
My concern is if I'm going to drill a hole in the rudder, then I want to be sure it is placed so that the line has enough leverage to keep the rudder in place. It seems that the lower the hole, the better the leverage, but on the other hand, I don't want to compromise any of my rudder's lift by having a line in the water disturbing flow around the blade.
Bob23's solution of bringing the line right up against the transom looks like it creates the best leverage but that set up is more elaborate than I care to get involved with.

[nies]

I have a IDA rudder and drilled my hole one inch down and one inch in from leading edge, placed a small clevis through hole attached cord and ran it over bottom of rudder stock and back to clevis.....the angle provides the right amount of leverage...................( front top of rudder blade).............nies

[marc]

Nies,
Would you have a photo? Not quite understanding the setup from your description.
When you say:

ran it over bottom of rudder stock

- well, I just don't understand. Sorry to be so dense.
I just received by IDA blade and it sounds like your system may be the way to go.
Marc

[nies]

Sorry can not do photos yet........your rudder stock has two bolts holding it on to the plate attached to the boat, run shock cord behind the bottom bolt, length of  will depend on attachment point.....nies

[marc]

Hello nies,
OK. I get the idea.
One more question - Is the hole going through the rudder 1" down the metal part or 1" down the plastic part of the blade?

[nies]

The hole is one inch down and one inch in from leading edge on the plastic part............talked to IDA before I drilled in plastic and they said "no problem" just make sure far enough in, I figured one inch would work with the 1/4 inch clevis pin hole to leave enough material on plastic blade, so far has worked great and hope I have been a help............good news if you don't like it you  have almost nothing invested and a small hole in rudder blade which could be filled ........five minute job................spent many nights lying in bed with pulleys ,lines ,weights and on and on to fix problem and finally came to me "simple is best"......nies

[marc]

Thanks so much.
Marc

[capt_nemo]

Once again,

Make sure you have enough leverage on your line to PULL the rudder FULLY FORWARD to its down position STOP, and hold it there, before inserting plastic pins or simply cleating off!

Failure to do so risks ADDING EXCESS WEATHERHELM as shown by my photos in a post on page 1 of this thread.

capt_nemo

[atrometer]

I took several pieces of advice.  #1 - I removed the rudder, epoxied a large fender washer around the hole, and reinstalled (very snug).  I had already ordered the replacement bolt/nut/handle from Compac, so I snugged it up a little-I think it will stay there fine.  BUT being a guy that likes backups for my backups I also drilled a hole in the rudder 1" down - 1" in from the leading edge, installed a 1/4" clevis and pin, ran a 3/8" 18" long bungee from the clevis over the top rudder mount and back down to the clevis.  Now I'm SURE it will stay down!!!

Thanks everyone for your help!

[dontpanic]

Capt_Nemo: not exactly on topic, but if your shop is as clean as the shop floor we need to see photos!

[Pacman]

I took several pieces of advice.  #1 - I removed the rudder, epoxied a large fender washer around the hole, and reinstalled (very snug).  I had already ordered the replacement bolt/nut/handle from Compac, so I snugged it up a little-I think it will stay there fine.  BUT being a guy that likes backups for my backups I also drilled a hole in the rudder 1" down - 1" in from the leading edge, installed a 1/4" clevis and pin, ran a 3/8" 18" long bungee from the clevis over the top rudder mount and back down to the clevis.  Now I'm SURE it will stay down!!!

Thanks everyone for your help!

August,

That sounds like an excellent solution.  If you do run into anything on the bottom your rudder will be able to safely swing free without damage but it should stay in place for sailing.

[marc]

My solution was to take a piece of linoleum floor tile and cut it to the shape of the rudder's aluminum plate that fits into the rudder head. It was just the right thickness to keep the rudder very snug. Now I'm not afraid to really torque down the tightening screw. I'm going to give this a try before drilling any holes for a pin. (On page 1 of this thread I showed you a photo of a clevis pin in place to hold down my original, aluminum plate rudder. I now have a Ruddercraft rudder and the placement of the existing hole through the rudder head won't work. I don't want to drill anymore holes unless I have to.)
Marc

[atrometer]

I think that's a good solution.  I can't believe that the water can exert 150 #s (delrin pin) on that thin edge.  I can push the rudder up now, but I don't think it's close to 150#s.

[capt_nemo]

dontpanic,

The floor you saw in the pics above is in my friend's large 3 - car Man Cave.

It has very high doors and I'm able to back my Sun Cat in to work on it once in a while.

Took the opportunity to take pics of the rudder to illustrate the WRONG and RIGHT positions when down and "ready" for use.

capt_nemo