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Adequate trailer for CP-23

Started by wilwait, August 09, 2013, 02:35:53 PM

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wilwait

I think I have found the right place to post this concern.

Greetings:

I am wondering if this double axle trailer, with 3/4 length shoal keel support and 4 braces (with two rollers each) would be adequate to haul a CP-23 from Boston to Plattsburgh, NY.

I just need reassurance, are 4 braces and 8 rollers enough to balance a CP-23?



Would a Capt'n or a Skiper be kind enough to evaluate and maybe share some advice.  You can reply here or email me at wilwiat@bigfoot.com.




Many thanks.

Will


PS  I am attempting to post two pictures of the braces in this post.  Until I'm successful, please feel free to email me and I'll be happy to send along these two pictures.  

http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/wilwait/media/trailer/Trailer2_zps3d8a72f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/wilwait/media/trailer/Trailer1_zpsccf699ab.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1



wilwait

Thanks for your help and patience.

Will

brackish

Wilwait, I've looked at your pics a number of times over the last couple of days and wish I could give you a definitive answer.  Will it work? I certainly don't know for sure, but it looks a little scary to me, at least by comparison to what is specifically matched to the 23.  See the pic below.  Notice that the bunks are continuous, and that there are three very strong posts on each side supporting them.



In this next picture notice that the posts are angled in so that they match the angle of the hull and provide good contact, and ability to resist a moment created by cornering.  Additionally, notice that the keel rollers have a guide that would resist any side slip that might put the load in an unbalanced condition.  On this trailer, there are tapered rollers, so a guide is not necessary to hold it centered, but in your pic it looks like the keel is sitting on a couple of tubes with nothing to resist sliding. (ignore the wood and tape, I was taking some measurements for another member here).



In this picture, notice that there is a support at the bow behind the bow chock to help eliminate resonate pitch that can set up when traveling over bumpy surfaces.



I think your best bet is to quiz the owner of the trailer and find out whether it has successfully transported the boat on a similar trip.  Or tow it to a trailer shop and ask them what they think.  I think any advice you get here about something like this will be very opinionated, and many would be reluctant to offer an opinion because they are as unsure as I am about whether it would work. 

Good luck with your venture.

MacGyver

With some of what I have seen come into our marina, you are probably good, as long as you "Strap the hell out of it" meaning, the boat to the trailer, the uprights to the trailer, the back of the keel forward on the trailer, etc.

My minimum would be around 8 straps, / rope tying it all down and around.....

After the move, mod that trailer to fix the obvious problems, like very little support for those uprights, etc.

Just my opinion.

Mac
Former Harbor Master/Boat Tech, Certified in West System, Interlux, and Harken products.
Worked on ALL aspects of the sailboat, 17 years experience.
"I wanted freedom, open air and adventure. I found it on the sea."
-Alaine Gerbault.

wilwait

Karma:

Great pics!  Is your trailer for rent?

Thanks for your input.

Will

wilwait

Mac:

This year, I have more straps than money.

This might be the way to go.

Thanks.

Will

skip1930

#6
Gee Will, you don't want much ...  lets see. The dream trailer.
I like that the trailer has four wheels. Brakes or not I don't care. It is what it is.
You'll need a 2 inch ball hitch minimum. More if you can find it. No 1-7/8 inch.
I see we have a crank up jack in the front.

It looks like black iron verticals are cobbled together with a buzz box weld and a stick.
Probably a cold weld good for a lick and a promise.
How good are the welds to the galvanized steel of the 'real' trailer?

Do away with the four rollers on the square steel verticals, and lay in some 2 x 4 hull bunks, 4 inch horizontally and 2 inch vertically.
There is just not enough surface area touching the hull for my liking. I'm worried about the hull oil canning on bumps.
And you'll need one more pair of vertical center supports under the wood and between the two existing supports.

Set the keel on whatever, rollers or boards. Make some sides if you like that come up the keel a little bit. More then what we see in the picture. And bolted down.
Then roll a floor jack or bottle jack under each vertical and lift and bend the wood to the arch of the hull. The boat sits down into this arch.

Now the hard part. A winch and an up right with a vee pad welded onto a plate that can be bolted to the tongue of the trailer.
You have to have something that will stop the boat from sliding forward when stopping. If there is a bow sprit in the way with a dolphin stay, that will be a problem that requires a bit of finagling. It's all doable. You may wish to use the old rollers as keel bunks.

Opps, dummy me. I forgot that the verticals for the hull bunks are welded on and not adjustable nor sitting in a tube-in-a-tube. So no way can a jack be applied to bend the bunks. Sorry.

skip.




MacGyver

About a month ago, we loaded a guys fixed keel Catalina 27 onto a trailer he modified with electrical conduit..........

Believe me, this Wilwaits trailer, is better than that from the pictures alone.

"I'm worried about the hull oil canning on bumps. "    <---- Not a problem on the Compacs, If the boat is stock, it should be good.

A few years back, we had a guy bring his boat in on a utility trailer, on a cobbled together wooden cradle.  You could for the move, build a middle support system to air the forward and back pads, Move the boat, then when it is where you need it, then begin the work on the trailer, AS LONG AS: the bearings are good, the tires are good, and the brakes if it has em, work (or if your tow vehicle is big enough to do that job instead...)

I would do what I am thinking, and then haul it back to my house from where you are at. I live a short drive away,  in Southern Illinois.  :o

Mac
Former Harbor Master/Boat Tech, Certified in West System, Interlux, and Harken products.
Worked on ALL aspects of the sailboat, 17 years experience.
"I wanted freedom, open air and adventure. I found it on the sea."
-Alaine Gerbault.

brackish

Quote from: wilwait on August 11, 2013, 12:50:39 AM
Karma:

Great pics!  Is your trailer for rent?

Thanks for your input.

Will

No, I'm in Mississippi a good distance from your starting point.  And I anticipate pulling in the not so distant future to do the bottom and some other minor maintenance.

wilwait

#9
Good advice gentlemen.

I intend to check all bearings, and thus will make sure each nut can be removed (WD-40) before hitting the road.  This is the worst wheel I think...



I'll also need a winch. something like this:



And, I intend to build a bow support inspired by this contribution:






Thanks,

I appreciate your input.  A lot!



Will

skip1930

#10
Pull the rubber caps off the bearings and pump in some grease using the zerks. Put the rubbers back in.
Take each lug nut off, slather-up the studs with Permatex Neversease and re nut, albeit with a tad less grunt power on the tee wrench.
WD-40 won't lube a thing after it evaporates.
Never wash out a bearing. Just re grease.

A little lace and a little paint will make her what she ain't.

skip.

wilwait


I'm sorry that I got two threads going.  My ignorance.

Please respond to posts in:

Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association > General Com-Pac and Sailing Related Discussions > Gear, Deals, Retailers, and Yards > Adequate trailer for CP-23


This link should take you there.

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=6675.msg48239#msg48239

You'll find more pictures there.

Thanks for your understanding.


Geoff

I hope you made it safely. If you haven't ventured off yet, then here are my $.02, having customized an old powerboat trailer for my ComPac 23.

My opinion is that the trailer would work. The bunks do very little for support; they are there for simple balance. 98% of my ComPac 23's weight is on the keel board.

One thing to keep in mind is that the ballast weight in your shoal keel is not evenly distributed. The weight in my shoal keel seems to be mostly in the front 1/2 of the keel. The latter third or so seems to be hollow.

I do not have an under-bow roller like you pictured. The length from the fore end of the shoal keel to the place where bow curvature begins is so short that I do not believe it is needed, and after an 8-hour road trip with my boat on a trailer, I'm comfortable with that decision. I have considered adding one only for boat retrieval, but I have mixed feelings on whether having one would simply complicate retrieval. Some CP23 owners report that they have to put roller in low position for launch/retrieval, and then raise up the under-bow center roller only for when trailering at distances. Sounds like a hassle to me, all done for very little gain.

Finally, it's all the other stuff I would be more concerned about: axles and tires and bearings.

P.S. Lowes Home Improvement sells some awesome massive yellow ratcheted straps. I bought two 25-footers and those guaranteed the boat wasn't coming off my trailer.

Cheers,
Geoff

Banana Cakes

I second what Geoff says.  Most of the weight rests on the keel and the bunks are there for support and balance.  Just thinking, if you set those rollers too high, you could end up with more trouble than you bargained for.  Personally speaking, my trailer is a dual axle with bunks made of 2x4's.  The rollers would be nice but I don't think there is enough on that trailer. Straps only do so much.  Let us know what ya end up doing, you have me very curious!