Stern gudgeon/pintle measurements ? - for a DIY mast raiser pole

[hockeyfool]

 Hey folks ,
   time for spring boatworks so I want to make a better plan for mast raising in the cockpit ; gonna try to copy the Catalina 22 mast-up" accessory ;
    their telescoping pole is square 2" stock with multiple slots for a quick pin to raise different heights , and attaches very  securely in the
transom's pintle-gudgeon location.
  SO - Can I get help with the dimensions of the gudgeon holes where we put our stainless bolts attaching rudder ?
  My plan is to drill holes in aluminum square stock for "L" brackets to accept bolts spaced for transom gudgeons. Once
the 2" square stock is cut to about 7', I'll get a 1.5' suare stock to fit inside, and drill holes thru both at 1 foot increments, so a quick pin can
be slipped thru both to make different heights .
   

[skip1930]

"Castings don't bend."

The hole in the casting is a maybe 7/16" so maybe a 3/8 bolt? I drill the hole to 1/2" and bang in a 1/2" shoulder bushings when I re due the worn castings.

So your going to take a 2"square steel tube-in-a tube and impose a 'moment of bend' upon a bored hole in an aluminum casting? " and attaches very  securely in the transom's pintle-gudgeon location. " How does it do this?" Just asking.

" The Catalina 22 mast-up" accessory; their telescoping pole is square 2" stock with multiple slots for a quick pin to raise different heights, and attaches very securely in the transom's pintle-gudgeon location. "

I don't know my Catalina's at all but guessing I saw that the pintle and gudgeon was cheaply stamped out of steel. A much more flexible and forgiving material.
I can see it now. Lift the mast, slam the pole up under the mast. Get the pin ready and lower the inside pole till the holes line up and the pin is pushed through...lift and repeat.

Somewhere along the line the mast and inner pole will slam down and on into the outer pole and that, moment of bend/moment of torque, does in the aluminum casting which is very strong as long as it's not twisted, either up/down, in/out, or side to side.

This is going to be done on the trailer, after which the rudder assembly will have to be re-fitted on the casting. This is a CP-23?

I'd tie a safety line to the fwd standing rigging, albeit a shroud or a furler. Get the head stay pin ready to go at the bow. Tools?

Double check the tabernackle that it's loose. The bolt is in place and the mast is ready to slide-N-go.

I'd run that line through the bow roller on the end of the bow sprit [if you have one] and down around some sort of a cleat on the trailer's steel tube.

Once all the standing rigging and running rigging is sorted out, [watch catching the rigging under the eye brow]. Stern turn buckle is sloppy loose but attached.

You and another guy heft the mast as high as you can. Have the lady on the safety line continue to take up the slack and cleat it off.

Two more hefts, and two more cleating offs. You don't have to do this all at once. Rest. Check lines and shrouds. The mast is not going anywhere.

Close and latch the cabin slider and climb up onto the deck house.

One more heft and she's up and cleated off. Put the pin in.

But you do it the way you want. Keep the trailer on the ball hitch.

skip.

[Salty19]

I don't know, I wouldn't bother.  Just use a gin pole.  By the time you get things rigged, and removed/remounting the rudder it's probably more hassle than it's worth. The rudders are heavy and where do you set the assembly so it doesn't get dropped or damaged (especially a fine, well-varnished tiller!) while raising the mast?  Seems like more work?

[hockeyfool]

Thankx :  i needed another outside perspective , and youre right ! I'll stay wh my gin pole .