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So why can't they just all be the same....

Started by brackish, April 02, 2013, 10:34:29 AM

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brackish

....outboard motor fuel connectors that is.  I know the answer, make them a little different, patent some minor "improvement" and you get to sell them for 10 times cost for a while.  So I get a Sailpro which comes with a 3.1 gallon tank and fuel line, but decide that it would be nice to make an additional fuel line that would allow me to choose the 6 gallon duratank which is really nice, tough, and the only poly tank of that capacity that will fit in the fuel locker of the 23.  And I want to retain the existing duratank line for the Suzuki 9.9/skiff so that I can go that route if the situation warrants.  So I order 5/16" line with bulb and separately an evinrude/johnson connector for the Duratank side and what I thought was a replacement for the OEM 5/16" connector for the Nissan motor side.  What came in was a 3/8" barb and what I've learned there is no aftermarket for the Nissan/Tohatsu 5/16" barb connector, consequently the OEM is the only choice and seems to run about 30-35 bucks with shipping.  Just for the connector. ???  I also like to keep a spare connector around for each and every application because they seem to fail regularly.  So I'll convert an existing 3/8" line to be the Duratank/Nissan line, make the 5/16" line Duratank/Suzuki (by adding a $4.00 evinrude/johnson connector) and rethink how many OEM Nissan connectors I want to stock at 30-35 bucks.  

Enough of this rant, the above probably has you thouroughly confused despite the fact I have a clear plan, but there is a question in all this.  When trying to figure out what is what I noticed that both motor connectors for the Nissan Sailpro do not fit tightly against the motor side seat.  There is a gap between the motor and connector of about 1/16"-1/8".  I've not seen this before.  All others seem to have the faces of the motor and connector end up as faying surfaces.  Appreciate if the SailPro owners would comment on their experience.  (Oh and a good source for a 5/16" barb motorside connector if you have found one).

picture showing the gap:

wes

Brackish - I feel your pain. My 5hp Mercury/Tohatsu has similar issues. The gap at the engine end of the hose is troubling, and for some reason this connection seems to eat the rubber O-ring on the fuel hose connector. A new one will work for a while, then will eventually start leaking under pressure. I have tried several brands of connector without finding a permanent fix. I have taken to leaving the hose connected at the engine end as much as possible, to avoid wear and tear on the rubber ring.

I'd say that other than clogged carb jets, the fuel hose and connectors have been the single most problematic issue with my motor. This kind of thing is what's making me so interested in alternate forms of power - Torqueedo electric, Lehr propane, etc. I like the power of the gas motor, but I hate having to worry about whether it will work next time I need it.

Wes
"Sophie", 1988 CP 27/2 #74
"Bella", 1988 CP 19/3 #453
Bath, North Carolina

skip1930

#2
Mine too. The connector on the 5 hp 2 cycle Mercury leaked like a sieve since day one and as it aged it leaked more. Oh I commented on this a few months back and how the bubbles in the line meant air was entering the pulse fuel pump causing stalling. And bla, bla, bla.

I tried new 'O' rings, replacement connectors...nothing worked. I think these doodads are designed to leak.

The only cure I found was to wrap this rascal in 'Rescue Tape' which is silicone stretchy tape that sticks to itself. I wrap at the start of the season and cut it off at the end of the season.

So wrap it and let it leak. Perfect fit. No stalling.

skip.


Ted

Yep, had the same issue. Got a new one, didn't fit. Called the marine supply store, gave them my motor's serial number, got the right one.
"Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING--absolute nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - The Water Rat