The start of a new adventure

[wes]

I learned a hard lesson on my 19 renovation project: the hull to deck bolts are individually trimmed to length at the factory, so each is a different length. Didn't discover this until I went to reassemble - what a pain. So, wiser this time - I drilled 144 holes in a scrap piece of 2x4 so I could reassemble them in the same order. P for port, T for transom, S for starboard. Today's score: Wes 1, Gods of Chaos 0.

Tonight I will lord it over the Admiral, who has been refusing to admit that a drill press is a reasonable kitchen accessory.

[MacGyver]

O...................M.........................G..............................
The time..........

Its........ ITS....... MAGNIFICENT

Great idea!

Mac

[Bob23]

The level of genius that lives on this site always amazes me! I'm sure that 2x4 will find a permanent home aboard your 27.
Bob23

[wes]

Au contraire. I am going to offer it up gratis on the CPYOA classifieds to someone undertaking a similar project. It's amusing to think about the UPS guys checking out my shipment of a scrap piece of 2x4 full of holes.

By the way, although my invention is designed for the 27, it is "backwards compatible" and will also work with the 23, 19, and 16. However for the 35 it requires a factory upgrade.

Wes

[MHardy]

Wes,
I hope your very early morning post yesterday was not a result of a night of little sleep aboard Bella! 

[wes]

Mark - you hit the nail on the head. Two very hot and humid nights aboard this weekend. I've got to come up with a solution for this weather. I met a couple who are restoring a Tartan 37 on weekends, sleeping aboard in the boatyard. They bought a $99 window AC unit at K-Mart, and mounted it in a piece of plywood shaped to replace the companionway drop board. That's cheaper than one night at the Hampton Inn, plus I can probably sell it for $50 on craigslist when I'm done.

Wes

[Koinonia]

I use a 7000 btu cruise air unit in the center hatch and it does wonders.  With very minor trimming of the starboard lazarette it can be stowed in that location.

[Allure2sail]

Hi Wes:
I noticed that you have the bow rail removed. I was trying to remove mine today and could not get at the nuts below. I am confused about the mounting method. My good boat (yes I have two) is mounted differently than the parts boat I'm striping. The parts boat has a plate mounted to the deck rail which is about two inches longer than the foot on the mount plate of the bow rail mounting foot. The plate in question is mounted to the deck rail with two self tapping screws. The foot of the bow rail has bolts going through that plate and rail but I can not find the nuts inside. I suspect they might be in the area where the deck and hull are bolted together. Where were your bolts and nuts. My "good" boat does not have this intermediate plate. Trying to finish the parts removal process before the snow flies, Motor, trans and prop shaft are next on the list to be removed. Today we stored the mast and boom and started taking off  the Edson pedestal. Last week I cut the keel off and dragged it out from under  the boat with a pickup truck (all two thousand pounds of it).
Thanks in advance
Bruce
S/V Allure
Swansea, MA

[wes]

Bruce - To get to those nuts I had to remove the interior trim panels that form the walls of the v-berth, which entailed first removing the teak trim along the top and sides. Then the big panel just lifts out. Then I had to temporarily peel back a few inches of carpet and remove a long strip of plywood that forms a kind of furring strip or nailer along the top. This will give you access to the nuts. I know - what a pain. Lucky for me I would have had to do this anyway to get to the chainplate nuts, since I'm rebedding those too.

Anxious to hear about your prop shaft removal. I will be doing that too, in order to replace the cutlass bearing. Very intimidating, especially for a guy who has never had a diesel.

Wes

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
I ended up grinding the heads off of the six bolts with a die grinder to get the bow rail off. Just got the stern cut open and removing the shaft, cutlass bearing, shaft tube out this week. What a collection of junk in the shaft tube channel. Going to cut the floor around the Edson pedestal to remove that because I can not get the nuts of the plastic sleeves the cables run through underneath (worry about those later). I want to get the engine and trans out before the winter sets in so I can get what's left crushed up and have my driveway back for the first time in five years. Stripped off and stored everything salvageable including the mast and boom. Makes me sad to see what is left, it's not pretty but I did get a lot of good parts off it.
Bruce
S/V Allure

[Nicolina]

Wes,

Since you have stripped your boat, you seem to be the guy to ask: how do you remove deck hardware that's been bedded with 5200? Seems tough stuff to get off. Thanks for any hints!

Jens

[wes]

Yes - it's Satan's Glue. Much misused as a sealant when what it really is is an adhesive, and a powerful one. Personally I think its proper place is only where you expect the bond to last forever, such as hull to deck joints.

To remove, I use an aerosol product from Debond Corp., called "Marine Formula." Spray on, wait a while, pry off, then use more to clean off the residue. For really thick areas, I wet a putty knife with the stuff, then work it between the hardware and deck followed by a spray into the joint, to allow the solvent to penetrate more quickly to the whole area of the joint.

Helps to work on a nice hot day - the action is faster when the temp is high.

It's a pretty benign chemical, other than being a powerful killer of 5200. Doesn't smell too bad, doesn't attack fiberglass or plastic, neutralized with water, alcohol or glass cleaner when you're done. Very nice when used with a Scotch-Brite pad to clean up filmy residue.

It's sold by most online marine discounters including Defender, but I actually found it cheaper to order directly from the manufacturer because their shipping charge is so low.

I ordered so much for my 27 project that the owner of Debond called me and volunteered to sell me the case quantity (12 cans) at wholesale. Nice customer service. I will end up using about 12 cans on my 27. I think the case price was about $150.

Wes

[Salty19]

I wish there was a way here in the forum software to send a large electrical shock through the wide, wide world of the web, through their keyboard to those who recommend the use of 5200 on their boat in any context except perhaps the hull to deck joint.    But I'm afraid no such feature exists.

Friends do not let friends use 5200.

[Nicolina]

Salty: our friends, the Hutchins borthers, seem keen on the stuff, though. It's everywhere on the CP-27.

[curtisv]

A heat gun and persistence will help release the grip of 5200 when the need arises.

Leverage or light persuasion with a heavy mallet is sometimes also required in addition to the heat gun.

I avoid putting 5200 back on the boat anywhere.  Caulk or less adhesive bedding compound is a good replacement in places where 5200 was originally used.

The hull to deck joint would be an exception but I haven't had a need to mess with it.  Maybe rebedding the ports if they leaked, but maybe bedding compound there.  Again, no need to mess with that either.

Curtis