Modifications to the 19

[steve brown]

Hi Marcus, Thanks for your reply. We appear to be thinking along the same lines regarding refinishing the the non-skid. My deck is all white. Perhaps the early number hulls came that way or it may have been repainted by a previous owner, I am not sure. I am interested in either the beige or cream color. I spoke to a rep at Interlux and he recommended the wire brush procedure also as part of the preparation as it will get down into the texture to clean and rough it up. He stated that if you don't have a clean surface the paint will come up. I am just concerned that the existing deck texture will hold more paint than necessary so I plan to get a quart and see what it does before I take the plunge. I can appreciate youre situation with the coffee house floors as I have dealt with those kind of things over the years as an Architect. When I try the Interdeck, I will post my findings. Regards, Steve  

[mgoller]

Hi Steve,
I posted some pictures of compacs in the CP19 section showing a variety of decks.  Looks to me like 1987 was a changeover year to all color non-skid.  Early models no color.  
My 1987 CP16II has a different pattern to the non-skid.  It is more of a knurled finish as opposed to the rope texture.  I am sure someone knows when that change occurred.  The 16 has color on all the non skid - a sort of leather tan color.
So, I think this may confirm that older models had color on only the cabin, hatch and cockpit seats.
I also can say that the non-skid texture on our earlier models is more effective than the finer texture of the knurled non-skid.
I am always in favor of leaving things as they came from the factory.  This goes back to the days of restoring Mustangs and Triumphs.  I always kept things stock as the day they rolled out of the factory.  Resale is higher and there is pride in the Marque.
I must admit that 2 years ago I simply used a color that matched from a spray paint can.  It went on nice and has a low sheen.  To me it looks like a stock job.  Perhaps the Interlux has some non-skid qualities.  I was actually going to repaint the non-skid this spring using a less expensive  paint from a can (rustoleum)instead of the deck paint because I was more concerned that the color was right.  I want to just brush it.
My 19 is hull number 178 but of course as you have seen I have converted it to a CP19II.  I cheated on the keeping it stock.  I like the stripe, the bow sprit and the hull liner.

[steve brown]

Marcus,  Was installing the bowsprit and hull liner difficult to install? The hull liner update has always interested me. Did you have to install some sort of back-up to hull before applying the fabric and battens? Steve

[mgoller]

It depends on your definition of difficult.  
I thought the hull liner would be a tougher job than it was.  I removed everything, the hull was already clean so I didn't do any prep other than vaccum a couple of spots where crud collects.  I removed the wood strips near the hull join, (didn't see any signs of deteriation of the join) keep the strips in order and label the backs so they go in the same way.
I started at the fore peak using the straight line of the fabric and tacked it back in with the strips.  Amazingly the fabric is so thick and flexible it conforms to the shape of the hull without any trouble.  I rough cut the bottom with scissors as it hung.  I made a 2" fold where the fabric ends under the cockpit seats.  When I was happy with the rough cut then I used a 3M heavy duty spray contact adhesive.  First a good dose on the hull and then a good mist on the fabric.  After spraying the area from the forepeak to midship (about half) I started smoothing it down from front to back working from the top edge down.  I didn't cut out the area around the shroud backing plates just went over.  When I was done smoothing everything I went back and trimmed the bottom where it is hidden by cushions.  I didn't remove the wood strips, I was so happy with the way it went on I just tightened the screws.
Now, if you want the teak battens like ComPac installed you will need to figure a way to screw them into something.  I don't think they would glue on.  But if you put a 1/4" wood backing on it may disrupt the smoothness of the hull liner.  I would be scared to screw into the fiberglass itself.  Whatever you do, you will have to figure it out before gluing in the hull liner.  
I think the hull liner is the single best upgrade to a stock CP19.  I have no mildew problem and it is quiet and warm.
The Bow Sprit is an afternoon job (3 hours) once you have the finished bow sprit in your hand.  You need some basic tools and the courage to drill holes in your boat.  It isn't hard and you get the hardware you need from ComPac.  You need to extend the forestay by 1/2" which you can do with a variety of stainless attachments.
Where are you located, any chance you may attend our Midwest rendevous this summer?

[steve brown]

Marcus, Thanks for the all the info. I believe that Hutchins place the back-up strips in the mold when it is formed to mount the battens. Do you recall how many yards of fabric you needed for the hull? Regarding the bow sprit, I would have thought that that you would have to replace the front stay. Did you replace the pulpit to extend out over the bow sprit? I wish I could attend the mid-west gathering but I am way back east near Albany, NY. I sail on Saratoga lake. This year I get to sail with a gentlemen who has a CP23. Steve

[mgoller]

Here is where I bought the hull liner material.  I seem to remember that I bought seven yards, you should measure from the forepeak back to where the material will end.  I think I had some leftover.

http://www.garysupholstery.com/ntohull.html

Do the geometry, it is surprising that the forestay length changes very little.  I actually calculated a third of an inch.  I use another one of those U shaped whatchamacallits to get the extension I need.  Multimediasmith posted a great picture of this piece recently in the gallery.

I went to the marine supply store and bought a length of 3/4" stainless tubing and using a pipe bender made the extended bow pulpit piece.  It goes right into the current bow pulpit fittings.  It doesn't look as good with the mix of aluminum and stainless but only an expert will know.  You could order the whole pulpit assembly, but I imagine the shipping is killer.

You will also have to move your nav lights up to the puplit.  I drilled the tubing and routed the wiring up to a new nav light mounted to the ss cross piece on the tubing.  I got that cross piece from scavenging the old forestay attatchment.

Also you will need a bob stay when you order the bowsprit. It lays under the bow ring which you will have to unscrew from inside and then re-attach with the bob stay.

Then you will need to plug the old nav light holes and gelcoat and sand and polish smooth.  Do this before you attach the bow sprit so you can get your sander in there.

OK, now it sounds like a lot of work!

[steve brown]

Wow Marcus, I am exhausted by all this and I have'nt even started. Gary is sending a sample of the hulliner material. I hope to get to a boat show near here in Feb. where my Com-Pac dealer will be showing an Eclipse and a Suncat. I believe they feature the hull liner with the battens so I can see what they do. What exactly does the bow sprit do for the boat? Thanks again. Steve

[mgoller]

The bow sprit does a couple of things.
First is style.  I think the 19 looks better with the bow sprit.   Arghh!
It also allows for more sail area in front of the mast which helps balance the boat.  Less weather helm.  I actually noticed this.
More power in softer winds with that bigger genoa.
The anchor deploys and pulls in easier off the roller.
There's more teak to refinish.
Easier to harpoon big game fish off the bow!

[steve brown]

That all sounds good to me. Thanks.

[steve brown]

Hi Marcus, I have ordered some hull liner from Gary's Upholstery and will install it following your idea. My question is, after you have the material attached under the wood hull strip and begin to apply the adhesive, how do keep the fabric away from the hull when spraying on the adhesive? Could you give me the step by step procedure? Is it a 2 person job? Thanks. I am also adding Vent-Air under my cabin cushions. Regards, Steve

[mgoller]

Hey Steve,
I was worried about the hull liner sticking before I wanted it to.  It was pretty easy really and it is still stuck on.  I liberally sprayed on the adhesive to half of one side and smoothed it on.  Having it hung by the batten strip halfway down the hull meant I just needed to hold it up with one hand as I sprayed the hull.  It didn't require any spraying both hull and fabric or any tack up time.
I smoothed it down from the bow end and the material gives nicely into the complex form of the curves.  You wont have any wrinkles. 
Once I got half way back I was happy with how it was turning out.  I secured the rest of the run under the batten, sprayed the hull liberally and smoothed it out.
Then I went back and sheared off with scissors the excess right where the material turned under the cushions.  I could have cut it off in the corner.  Whatever, the cushions will hide whatever you decide to do.
The hull liner looks as good as the day I installed it.
You will be surprised how quick this job is.  But I do reccommend taking the time to find that particular adhesive.  Don't get fancy and try something else.  This was just too good.  If you make a mistake it wont grab so hard you can't lift it and smooth it out.
The hardest part is getting the materail in the boat and roughly in place.
Once it is tacked up it goes easy.
I didn't cut any special arc where the material attaches under the batten.  Just use the straight edge of the material.  It conforms to the hull really nice.

[steve brown]

Marcus, Thanks for the helpful information. I thought you had to spray both surfaces. Having to do only one will make it easier to put on. I purchased a large can of 3M spray adhesive for the job. They only had one kind at the hardware store. The label stated that it is for most materials to be attached by spray adhesive. The label escapes me at the moment. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks, Steve

[Damsel19]

Painting decks is tricky.  hte paint tends to peal at any crack in the gel coat unless it is ground and repaired.  Most of the pros I know will only paint a deck if they can grind out the skid patern and replace with sand.  West epoxy is the best repair product. it realy sticks and has some flex.  but here is the best sounding hope_ this month in Practical Sailor a strong recomendation from a reader for Rot Doctor Uniflex 255 www.rotdoctor.com  as a dedicated deck refinishing material.  Practical sailor has not tested the product yet.

[steve brown]

Hi Marcus, Well I got the hull liner installed without too much trouble. Getting it hung at the start was tough. I used duct tape and some tiny copper canoe tacks to hang it until I could get the wood trim back up. 2 or 3 of the original screw locations were unusable so I installed similar screws in between the original locations. It looks nice. I had order 5 yards and ended up using about 12 to 13 feet per side. I left a 2" hem on the bottom that will lay under the cushions. I am also putting Dri-Air sheets under my cushions to cut down on mildew. I also installed a solar powered vent on the hatch. The boat feels fresher inside now. We plan to launch a week from today when my son comes up from Texas for Fathers Day. He is a crack sailor and will wring out what Odina is supposed to do and teach me a thing or two.. Will send a report then. Thanks again for your support and the advice from all you other fine folks.

Warm regards,
Steve

[mgoller]

Steve,
Great!  Thanks for the detail on how this project went.  The next person doing this upgrade will appreciate the tips.  I am really glad it turned out well.  Its always a little scary to give advice on doing an expensive project when there is a possibility for things to go wrong.
I've been thinking about a solar vent.  What did you use, where'd you get it and how's it look.  How do you keep rain from blowing in?  I've thought that the interior would hold up better with some air movement. 
Thanks,