towing a CP23

[Salty19]

Glen, they are hard rubber insert in the ball hitch carrier--the part that inserts into your vehicle in which the ball is bolted.  The pin you use to connect them goes through the hard rubber insert and isolates the mount, this keeps most of the hitch mount banging and clanging at bay..basically absorbs shock. I use one from e-trailer.com

[MacGyver]

Thanks for explaining that to him Salty19,
To add to that explanation, mine does it in both directions, and is adjustable up and down to help level the trailer to my truck.

My tailgate clears the top of the mount by a 1.5 inch space, but I still check it every time I have the hitch on and put it down.

Mac

[skip1930]

The guy who makes a lubricating-squeak proof-rust protectant ball cover for a hitch that won't ware out when the ball and hitch are in use together will make himself a fourtune with those 2 x 2 square inch receivers and ball posts.

Any scientists out there? Tried several materials that have not worked yet.

Don't forget to fit the hitch to the ball.
That's what that nut is under the hitch for.
Your going to have to lay on your back and look up.
You should be able to jack the trailer up enough to unload the tow vehicle suspension without the hitch letting go of the ball.
Check this often.

skip.

[ribbed_rotting_rusting]

  Not to add to your misery but are the torsion springs those rubber type? They are some times used on RV trailers with a predicted rate of load but even at that there are strict inspection and maintenance and replacement guidelines. Back when load limits for semi trailers and tractors were lifted some companies stretched their trailers without upgrading the suspension. The first week of failures more than out weighed the cost savings. The good news is as mentioned axles are reasonable,  there is a guy on eBay called Johnson's Surplus who sells axles, hubs, springs etc for a reasonable amount. He also sells axles with torsion mounting that includes drum brake--really being in the RV capital of the midwest he sells alot of new but surplus stuff. (I have no connection). The advice is right about the safe towing with rated equipment and vehicle. Nothing is built over spec now, unlike even 30 years ago. With a safe trailer you can hall all day in western Ohio. I just bought a 1980 23' with non operable brakes near Akron and used a Jeep Liberty 3.7 6 cyl  but only towed to eastern Indiana in daylight during the week at non heavy traffic times. Despite my west coast tendency to disparage the mountains in the south, only a real fool would not realize the dangers they present to any type of towing. If you hit any real weather such as thunderstorms and high wind you might find a ticket the least of your concerns. Mike

[Geoff]

How reasonable is it to tow a CP23 with a 2009 4wd Nissan Frontier with a manual transmission from Tampa to Augusta? Truck has about 6500lbs tow capacity. Trailer is dual axle with surge disc brakes on one axle. It weighs about 1200 lbs, I think. Debating whether I need a full size truck. Any thoughts would be appreciated...

Geoff

[Bob23]

Dunno, Geoff:
   A Frontier sounds a bit on the light side for a 23 for that distance even if the towing specs say it's ok. But that's just my opinion. I have a 2001 Tundra 4wd with the 4.7 L V8 and it pulls my 23 just fine but I do know it's back there. And I only go about 8 miles from my house to the marina. Maybe just take it out for a trial tow and see how it feels. I figure my entire rig weighs at least 4500 #. I'd be concerned about frying the clutch. 
Bob23

[MacGyver]

I would think you should be good Geoff. My truck is similar to a Frontier. It is a Ford Ranger, 4wd FX4 level 2.
Its rated I think for 6000.
The truck itself weighs 4220 with half tank of fuel.
Since the trailer is dual axle, that is better yet and with brakes is a plus. Set the trailer to help the truck stop. Not the truck to stop the trailer.
And actually setting that up all depends on the quality of brake controller you have, etc.

I wouldn't hesitate to pull a 23 with mine. She has been a good truck and easily pulled that kind of weight across Illinois several times.

Look in your manual for your weight limits to be sure on that Manual trans. Or else call the Nissan dealer to be sure.

Mac

[brackish]

Edmunds and trailer life tow ratings show the 4WD version with six speed manual to have a rating of 6300 lbs.  That should be enough.  I tow my 23 long distances with a Toyota Tacoma that has a 6500 lbs. tow rating, and while I know it's back there, it does just fine. 

[ribbed_rotting_rusting]

I  looked on Google but couldn't tell, but I would think with something that new that a hydraulic clutch is more than probable. I also suspect that a ceramic clutch disc is also standard. With 280 ftlbs of torque and four wheel disc brakes you shouldn't have any safety problems or clutch either. The thing with ceramic disc setups is to never slip the clutch, the ceramic will gouge the flywheel if you do. You might not win any races but you should be OK. Mike