Is there quick way to attach forestay

[Saluki86]

I was taking my new compac16 for a driveway sail last night and found my first challenge.  As I was hoisting the mast, I had a friend attache the forestay.  I have just the basic (I think) turnbuckle/pin arrangement.  I don't see how I am supposed to apply pressure on the forestay and set the pin by myself?  It seems to take 3 hands.  Even with a friend helping me, it still took an inordinate amount of time to insert the pin. 

Does anyone have any suggestions for a quick release pin or shackle that I can use?  I just don't see how singlehanding this can be done unless I come up with a different plan.

Thanks,
sal

[NateD]

While some of the newer Com-Pacs have the Mastendr system (http://www.com-pacyachts.com/mastendr-mastraising.html), and some others here have adapted the self-locking lever system to a shroud on a CP16, but you can still step the mast single-handed no problem without any special gear.

Once you have the mast bolted to the step and you are ready to raise it, tie the jib halyard to your bow pulpit, then go back and raise the mast. Once the mast is up in position, then tighten the jib halyard and cleat it off, it will hold the mast up and you can take your time attaching the forestay. One tip on getting the pin in/out is to make sure the turnbuckle is opened enough, even 1 or 2 extra turns of the turnbuckle can take it from impossible to piece of cake to get the pin in/out.

A lot of things that seem daunting or difficult at the start are going to become simple and second nature after your first season.

[Saluki86]

Thanks Nate.  I will try that tonight during another driveway sale! 

[capt_nemo]

The nice thing about the quick release forestay on my Sun Cat is that, once fixed in place and the shrouds properly adjusted, attaching the forestay WITH PROPER TENSION ON THE SHROUDS is accomplished in seconds with no turnbuckle turning or guessing about shroud tension. And, we're always looking for ways to make rigging and derigging faster at the launch ramp aren't we?

Once you've tried one you'll never go back to a turnbuckle with pin and cotter ring!

capt_nemo

[Saluki86]

Thanks Nate.  I used your method and was able to steady the mast (quite easily actually....thanks for that) but see the picture below.  I can't get my sausage fingers into the space allowed to insert the pin and cotter pin.  That is why I was looking for some type of quick release method.  



Capt Nemo, would the SunCat type quick release work here?  Sorry...not familiar with it.

Thanks for the help.

[NateD]

Wow, that does look really difficult! Without the custom bowsprit it is pretty easy, but I can see why you're having trouble. I think the cheapest and easiest fix would be to bolt a small extension onto the chainplate to extend the point where the turnbuckle attaches above the hole. So you would nee about an inch of stainless steel strap (like this: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|107602|311638&id=117332), and you would bolt it permanently onto the chainplate, then drill a hole in it and attach the turnbuckle to it. That assumes you have inch of extra thread on the turnbuckle so that you can still get enough tension on it.

Another cheap option would be removing the shackle that the jib tack attaches to, which would give you more room down in that hole, and then attach the tack to the turnbuckle.

I haven't used a mastendr quick release, but I'm pretty sure someone on this board put one on a CP16 shroud and it worked. It would sure make setup a little easier, but some initial expense.

[capt_nemo]

Saluki86,

Yes, the quick release lever should work on your stemhead fitting. If it is still too close for your fingers an extension of some sort as suggested by NateD would certainly make life (and rigging) much easier. A small inexpensive SS anchor shackle would work to elevate the attachment point in your current situation and serve as an additional toggle. I'd try that first!

What I particularly like about the quick release lever is that once you've attached it and carefully set up shroud tension, the "quick" attachment of the forestay assures proper shroud tension EVERY TIME!

capt_nemo

[jamato323]

I faced this same challenge last summer and got help on this site. The secret is to be able to detension the rig after the mast is raised to pin the forestay and then retension it. As I had intalled roller furling I needed to put a detensioner on one of my side stays to do this (CS Johnson makes one which I believe is the same one used by Hutchins on the Suncat). http://www.greenboatstuff.com/jomaststqure.html
I fasten my jib halyard to the pulpit, raise raise mast with left hand while taking up slack and securing it upright with the halyard and jam cleat near my right. Then I get off the boat, detension the rig, pin the forestay, retension and its done.

[Saluki86]

I got the strap from Defender and will be cutting it to fit this weekend to help me out for my forestay issue.

My next question is Clevis Pin the extension to chainplate or ss bolt?  It seems there was a thread going earlier about not using SS bolts in place of clevis pins. 

Thoughts?

Thanks!

[Saluki86]

I installed the new tab out of a piece of stainless I got from Defender (thanks NateD) and took it out this weekend.  Now, the forestay is too long.  Even with the turnbuckle tightened as much as possible.  It was so loose that I took it off and went back to the old (difficult) way in order to sail.

So now I need to shorten my forestay about 1.5".  All the rigging is new (purchased by the PO before he sold it to me) and he got it straight from Hutchins for the C16.  I am hesitant to take to just any old machine shop.  Does anyone know who can do this?

Thanks,
Saluki

[NateD]

I would cut the piece of stainless strap down before I modified the rigging. Can't you (or a metal shop) cut the strap from Defender down to a smaller size and drill a new hole to make it the correct length so you can use the stock forestay?

[MacGyver]

Call hutchins and make sure they didnt sell you a too long of cable, it could happen....

Also, not have I ever heard of anyway, a forestay being cut down.
Typically you buy a new one and install it, made to the specs of the old one, since you know it worked, sounds like you dont have that option.......


would a D shackle work instead? better yet, do you have a picture with that tab installed so I can see what that looks like completed?

Mac

[Salty19]

Just cut the threaded area that rides in the turnbuckle to shorten the stay. You can buy a small die that will allow you to drill cotter pin holes in the threads for safety.

[NateD]

Just cut the threaded area that rides in the turnbuckle to shorten the stay. You can buy a small die that will allow you to drill cotter pin holes in the threads for safety.

If the turnbuckle is tightened as far as possible, how does cutting off some of the threaded rod that is already inside the body make it any smaller?



I guess if there was still a few threads left outside of the body it might help get a few mm shorter.

[Salty19]

If the turnbuckle is tightened as far as possible, how does cutting off some of the threaded rod that is already inside the body make it any smaller?



I guess if there was still a few threads left outside of the body it might help get a few mm shorter.

Yes, that is what I was referring to.