Where are your bow chocks?

[Salty19]

Regarding chafe.   Seadog sells a twin pack of leather line covers for around $6 a pair.  Includes twine and needle.   
They are very effective and could be used on the edge of the bowsprit (sewed to the line so it stays put) to keep the line from chafing the edge of the bowsprit.

If putting these over the thick portion of a splice, buy the next size up so they will fit correctly.

[Bob23]

I use the Jack Benny type. Old Carhart work pants material held in place with Harbor Freight electrical tape. El cheapo, to be sure but works great. Total cost for 2 mooring lines: Too little to calculate.
bob23

[marc]

Looking on-line I see that the description of various chocks give a screw size to use in fastening them down. What's the reasoning behind that? My 1st inclination would be to thru-bolt them. It's not like a tabernacle where you'd want it to rip out before wrecking the deck. If a chock fails, your line will fail next and you potentially lose your boat.

Also, I assume most mooring lines you'd encounter at marinas are 3/4" diameter or smaller. That requires a 4" long chock. A chock large enough to accommodate a 1" line is 6" long - seems too big for our boats. Are most of you using a 4"?

This board is a great source of information! Thank you!
Marc

[NateD]

It looks like the chocks on my 23 are about 4" and screwed down. I had a chock pull out on my 16 while at anchor, I don't remember if that one was just screwed on or through-bolted on the deck (it was a 1980 model, so no bow sprit).

Here's a picture of my 23's bow setup.

[Salty19]

Hey Bob!

I bet the Carhart chafe guards work well.   And as you said, quite affordable!

Intersting enough, I pulled the boat this week and while washing the lines, noticed a large amount of fraying on one of the dock lines. It cut the cover and was chewing into the core.  The fray was about 2" from the end of the leather chafe guard.  This chafe guard is the first bend around the dock cleat, the frayed area was probably rubbing up against the leather!  Will have to keep an eye on the new line next year--I literally didn't notice it despite uncleating the line at least once a week all summer.

[deisher6]

Hello Marc:
I have an extra set of chocks off of either a C-23 or C-27.  However they are the same size as those on my C-16 (2.5 inches between mounting holes).  Not much use for an extra set here in Eastern MT.  They are yours for the price of postage if you still need them.
regards charlie

[marc]

Charlie, Thanks for the offer. I'm interested if they are skene chocks that can handle a 3/4" line.
Marc

[deisher6]

Hey Marc:
Sorry to say that the gap between the horns is 5/8 inch.  That would be the max size line that would fit into the chocks.  Anyone else need some chocks?
regards charlie

[skip1930]

"...various chocks give a screw size to use in fastening them down..."

Who uses a wood screw? Through bolts, washers to spread out the forces, and ny-loc nuts.

A four inch chock is more than plenty. Most dock lines I have seen appear to be too large in dia.
Darn near pick the whole boat out of the water with the dock lines. Well all most. Just an example.

skip.

[Bob23]

Mine are fastened with wood screws...they work fine. There is no lateral load on the chocks when the boat is at a mooring. My 23 has endured 60 mph gusts at her mooring...no problemo!
bob23
Charlie: Are your chocks bronze?

[deisher6]

Hey Capt'n Bob:
Yes, the chocks are bronze....just like the ones in the C-16 bowsprit thread.
regards charlie

[MacGyver]

Just have to ask: why do the lines have to be 3/4?
Why not do a leader line off the boat like 7/16 through the chock with a bolen knot to a 3/4 line?

3/4 just sounds excessive to me.
Am I missing something here?

Mac

[Bob23]

   No your'e not missing a thing. 3/4 is excessive but it's a nice thought. I use 2 1/2" lines although in the past I used 5/8". I found the 1/2" to be fine and I can wind around the cleat more. I did learn in my endless quest for knowledge that 3 strand nylon can loose 20% of it's strength when it's wet, which mine always is.
   My boat gets new mooring lines every year, even if the old ones look ok. Cheap insurance!
bob23

[marc]

Sometimes the easiest solutions are right in front of my face. A leader line - I hope I would of thought of that someday.
Marc

[MacGyver]

Along with that leader line mark you could do a couple of thimbles which would then have the wear on them instead of the lines where they connect.
If you dont know what I mean by thimble, I have on on my anchor line I can take a picture of for you.

Just let me know
Mac