Home made bimini top

[mandolinut]

I finished the mock up bimini using an old sheet for fabric. As previously mentioned, I found the height for the forward pvc crossbar easily by going just below the boom in the downhall position. The rear crossbar height took a little more thought. I initially raised the mainsail and sheeted it all of the way in to simulate a close reach and took a measurement of the boom height at the aft end. Cut my 3/4" pvc supports, tightened everything up to the rear cleats and the bimini began to look like a bimini. The problem was the bimini was too low near the back of the boat. I then came up with an idea to make the rear supports adjustable or telescoping. The 3/4" pvc fits nicely into a 1" non schedule 40 pvc pipe (the one with the thinner walls). I drilled a few holes in the 3/4 pipe at various heights for a pin which keeps the 1" pipe from sliding down. Works great.  This way I should be able to have the top raised most of the time sailing and all of the time at anchor.  I also put a T fitting in the middle of the forward and rear crossbars to hold a pvc pipe going down the center for no sag. Works well. 

[mandolinut]

This is my first attempt at posting photos here at CPYOA. Hope it works. Click on this link or copy and paste it .

http://s1167.photobucket.com/albums/q638/mandolinut/?action=view&current=100_2339.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1167.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq638%2Fmandolinut%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D100_2339.jpg

Some pictures of the mockj up bimini and adjustable rear supports. Also a pvc roller furling that allows the sail to be raised and lowered if need be and a dorade ventillation box.

Thanks for the  imput. Next step is to sew it up with Sunbrella.

[mandolinut]

I forgot to mention, the rear supports fit nicely into stainless life rail supports. Rather than mount and drill holes for the supports, I found two white non skid rubber furniture casters (Ace Hardware) that fit between the stainless support and the fiberglass seat and prevent any slippage.

[mandolinut]

I am attaching some new photos of the finished sunbrella bimini top. I made two modifications  from others I had seen. One was adding adjustable rear leg supports and the other was a support running down the center of the bimini which takes all of the droop out of the top. You will see pictures without the center support and others with it to show you the difference. I also took a picture of the various pvc pieces needed to create this simple top. To create the center support, I added a "T" in the middle of the front support and a 4 way "T" in the middle of the rear support. I then used a dremel to enlarge the opening so a 3/4 pvc pipe could easily slide through from front to back on the 4 way "T". To install the center support, I first raise the bimini top, then push the support pipe aft through the opening in the middle of the rear support(the one I enlarged). Then I slide it forward into the "T" on the front crossbar. The last step is to hold the center support in one hand, push the rear support aft to make the top tight, and then slip a pin into a predrilled hole in the center support to keep the top tight.

http://s1167.photobucket.com/albums/q638/mandolinut/?action=view&current=100_2366.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1167.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq638%2Fmandolinut%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D100_2365.jpg

I also noticed that without this center support, the crossbars tended to bow a bit in the center, allowing for more sag.
Hope this is helpful. Looking forward to trailering her to Ashland, Wisconsin on Lake Superior this summer.

[capt_nemo]

Very well done. Excellent photos. Let us know how it works under sail!

Thanks again.

capt_nemo

[mandolinut]

I tested the mock up version made from the thin bedsheet material  under sail a few times (  5-15 mph winds) and it worked very well. I also left the top in the up position for a week at anchor with variable wind conditions and no failure. Would have probably lasted at least one season with the bedsheet :0)  The sunbrella will be nice. If I encounter any problems that require adjusting I will let you know.

Note.....holes drilled for the lines securing the rear crossbar should be drilled through the "T" for strength, not the crossbar.

[capt_nemo]

mandolinut,

Where can I find details on your PVC Roller Furling that permits raising and lowering a headsail?

Great idea. Did you make it yourself?

Just finished making a large light air Drifter which will be flown from a 4' Bowsprit on my Sun Cat. Would be nice to try rolling it out when needed, and rolling it back in when not, without going forward. And, all this without buying an expensive foil over headstay Furling System!

capt_nemo

[mandolinut]

The roller furling was like the bimini top, I saw what others were doing and added some of my own ideas for the cannister. I used 3/4 pvc , capped at the top and glued to the cannister at the bottom. At the top there is a stainless eyebolt passing through the pvc cap with a pully attached rto the eye bolt  to raise and lower the jib sheet.The jib is hanked at the bottom to another eye bolt in the cannister. By using the top pully to raise the jib, you can roller furl the jib without a tangled.
I will post pictures which will make it more clear. I have 7 stainless rings that the jib hanks onto.

[mandolinut]

I took some pictures of the furling unit made from pvc parts. The drum was fashioned from two 4" to 2" reducers (Home Depot). I cut off the 4" part of the couplers which left the nice angled half drum. Joined them  together with 2" pvc pipe with enough sticking out at either end to attach fittings. I had to use my Dremel to grind off the ridges inside to allow the 2" pvc pipe to pass through. On the top of the drum I attached a 2" to 3/4 inch reducer and at the bottom attached a 2" cap. Shows up pretty well in the photos I am attaching. When the genoa or jib are raised, I take  the free end of the jib halyard , pass it through the eyebolt above the drum, lead it back up the forestay and tie it off.  I use a shortened jib halyard so I don't have too much slack to deal with. Works quite well. I have seen roller furling drums made a number of ways and they all seem to work. The entire assembly  can easily be removed if desired by sliding it off over the turnbuckle since there is an opening at the top of the  3/4" cap that allows it to slip over the turnbuckle.   Hope this helps.

http://s1167.photobucket.com/albums/q638/mandolinut/roller%20furling/

[Salty19]

That's an AWESOME DIY furler, Mandolinut!

The block/rings setup is pure genius!  Nice job and suspect you're design will be the new standard.
I also like how it rides over the turnbuckle. More sail area if you get a well cut genoa. Although a bit harder to see under.

A nice salty drum would really make it stand out.

Here's one that Doug142 made for me on the 16.

[mandolinut]

Hey Salty, I found that with the cut of my genoa, I needed every bit of forestay length which is why I covered the turnbuckle. Otherwise there would have been a lot of slop on the leading edge of the genoa. The most important thing is the furler works well and gives me many jib size options while under sail depending on wind conditions and keeps the deck clear while anchored. Enjoying this boat :0)

[capt_nemo]

mandolinut,

Thanks much for the explanation and excellent photos. A very nice DIY job indeed! I have a only a few questions for clarification.

First, it appears that the 3/4 inch PVC Pipe covers and rotates about the entire forstay with the halyard block attached at the top with an eyebolt. With the tack of the headsail attached above the drum to another eyebolt when hoisting a headsail does this allow you to put enough luff tension on whatever headsail you are using? And, after hoisting sail does the halyard tail, after going through the tack shackle and upwards to tie off on the 3/4 PVC pipe, get wrapped inside while furling? Are you able to get reasonably good headsail shape with this furler? Does it stand up OK in heavy winds, with smaller jib of course?

Thanks again for sharing this information.

capt_nemo

[mandolinut]

Good questions.
1.  When raising the jib sheet as tight as it will go, the 3/4 pvc pipe has a slight flex until it comes in contact internally with the forestay. Almost like stringing a violin bow. There is a slight curve on the leading edge of the jib. I have not noticed a difference in sailing although there might be if I were racing head to head with a standard rig.
2. Yes, the jib halyard is the cream filled center when the sail is furled since it is running paralell to the 3/4 pvc pipe covering the forestay.
3. I have not had the opportunity to sail in really heavy winds since the furling was installed so cannot comment on performance. It is usually 10-15 where I live in north central Florida on freshwater lakes. The boat will be sailed this summer on lake Superior where whitecaps are common. I will let you know about heavy winds.

I "mispoke" in a previous post.    The forestay is easily removed from the furler by removing the cotter pin that secures the forestay at the top of the mast (with the mast down) and then sliding the forestay down and out of the 3/4 pvc pipe and exiting at the furler drum. The base of the furler drum has a round drill hole in the cap allowing the turnbuckle to pass. A stainless fender washer under the cap acts as bearing.

[capt_nemo]

mandolinut,

Thanks for the answers. Hope you enjoy Lake Superior this summer!

capt_nemo

[JBC]

Mandolinut,

I think your homemade furler is quite inventive and certainly a clever use of materials.  Before I acquired my current CP 16, which came rigged with a furler/genoa, I gave thought to making one.  Yours would certainly make a good model.  

There is one thing I can't help but comment on, and that's the use of push pins for attaching the furler to the bow plate. as shown in your photos.  Since I trailer my boat mostly, I struggle some when by myself to attach the furler/forestay to the bowplate after raising the mast.  The struggle is mostly with the pin/ring combo, with the ring often winding up on the ground below with me kneeling on the bow trying to hold the tension just right while putting in and securing the pin.  I tried a push pin and that sure made it easier.  Then I thought about all the twisting a furler adds to the picture, and decided it wasn't worth it.  

I know there have been comments in recent threads warning about using push pins there, even with forestays without furlers.  I can't say from experience, but I can't help but think the furling action might affect the pin, and since I sail often on a high mountain lake in CO with water about the temp of Lake Superior in the summer, I've decided to be more cautious about that forestay/bow plate connection!

Jett