CP 16 rebuild update. Interior paint ideas?

[Jordan]

Ok so this weekend my dad and I spent at least 16 hours prepping the interior,cutting supports, laying supports, cutting the bunks and adding floatation. I saturated the cement keel with epoxy, saturated the rotten wood near the bow with epoxy and filled it.


We measured out the bunks with a scribe tool shown below to get the curve just right and cut the supports.



The supports were then saturated with clear epoxy and secured to the boat with thickened epoxy and a fillet was added to each end.








We let the epoxy cure and then filled the bunk area with assorted foam, the original foam piece and Great Stuff.



We measured, cut and saturated the bunks with epoxy, but haven't put them into place yet.


The Great stuff needs to cure and we are exhausted to boot.  So this is where we are right now.  Back to my real job tomorrow, but might put my boatbuilder hat back on at the end of this week.  We will cut the foam back flush, lay a bunch of thickened epoxy and put the bunks into place.  We will then fiberglass the bunks into place with fiberglass tape.  Then to paint...  I still need to decide which type of paint to use on the interior of the boat.  I was thinking that a good exterior grade paint from my local big box hardware store would be sufficient.  Does anyone have any experience with painting the inside of a boat and have any opinion on what type of paint works well?

[Salty19]

Jordan,  Since you are restoring this boat..and quite professionally I might add, maybe consider using a filler, smoothing everything out nicely and using interior gelcoat. 
That should hold a nice gloss, be stain resistant and will look phenomenal.  That's for the fiberglass.  For the wood which will flex a bit, maybe use Bilgecoat.   Both of these will seal everything nicely, preventing any water damage in the future.

Truth be told, you have many options including run of the mill exterior grade paint.   I'm thinking since you are really going hog wild with restoration, why not continue that track and go with gelcoat for the glass and very tough marine paint for the wood.

Before you paint, maybe consider adding some shelves or glassed in hooks for supporting some netting hammock. Just a thought.

Very, very nice work on your 16.  Can't wait to see it done--lol..and I'm sure you can't wait either!

Curious if you're going to paint the exterior and deck as well?

[JTMeissner]

Jordan, fantastic work.  Definitely gonna keep this effort bookmarked for use in the future.  I have more surface damage to the concrete, but believe the wood to be in better shape. 

Can't help with the "right" choice for interior painting, I was planning on a primer/sealer then exterior paint, something a tad brighter than the grey that's there now.

The PO of my boat had two bilge pumps, one up front by the compression post and the other back in the lazerette area.  I don't seem to get the water levels he did that would justify the pumps (I think they were there to get rid of rain, not water from sailing...), but I seem to remember a limber hole in the cross support beam at the end of the bunks?  Looks like the glass lay-up allows for water to gather in that rear compartment if the bow is tilted up.  Just a thought while the work is in progress.

Again, great work, maybe a good layout for the grand winter project next year.

-Justin

[JParody]

Thank you for posting your progress.  I too am saving your work in a pdf for future reference!  You are doing a beautiful job!

[Jordan]

Salty, I do plan on painting the deck and hull of the exterior as well.  I appreciate your input on the filler, gelcoat and paint idea but think it might be a bit overboard for this project, I don't plan on spending a great deal of time inside the boat as cramped as it is (I'm 6'2 and over 200 lbs) although I want it to look sharp and be water and stain resistant, I think those steps might be a bit much.  I will consider the pros and cons of marine grade paint and exterior grade paint, specifically durability and cost but wondered if anyone had any real world experience with this type of painting project and insight as to which might be better.  Shelves and hooks for netting sounds like a great idea, thanks, I will probably do something of the sort.  Any ideas? Where would that fit well, what is really needed?  As for bilge pumps... The lowest point in the boat is between the aft curved support shown in the pictures and the cockpit support not yet seen, but shows as a dark line in the rear 2/3 of where the bunk would be.  A limber hole from where the lazerette would be to that lower point would make sense so that water doesn't collect against the wood of the aft support.  No idea why a bilge would be in the forward part of the boat other than for use when the boat is out of the water.  Thanks for the support and keep the comments coming, any input is appreciated.

[brackish]

What a great job!

I think I would use a high quality mold and mildew resistant exterior latex based paint with enough gloss to make cleaning easy.  I did this a couple of boats ago and it seemed to work well, but we sold the boat before I could comment on longevity.  Because you've completely gutted, you can make sure that the existing spores are dead before you apply paint, very important.  Consult with Tim G.

Control of mildew and mold is the key.  In addition to a paint for that purpose, air circulation and heat during times when condensation occurs help.  I have a solar vent on my foredeck, enough supply air space at the main hatch,  and use a little heater that goes on at about forty degrees in the winter, and I've had zero mildew or mold growth.  This is the first boat I can say that about.

A good article on the subject:

http://paintpro.net/Articles/PP706/PP706_Mold-Mildew.cfm

[Salty19]

Saw a pic awhile back with shelves built into the deck, just under the port holes running a few feet across on either side.  Right above the cushions go.  This area is largely unused, but if you do plan to camp on it, could make the berths a bit tighter.  

Hooks could be run from near the bow back about 3" with netting for storage of stuff like towels, PFD's, suntan lotion, etc.  

I hear you in the interior size.  I'm about your weight and height...the 16 cabin was storage for me as opposed to a hang out at anchor.

Agree the interior gelcoat is perhaps overkill.  With carpeted walls, here is a glimpse of what that might look like.just to tempt you hehehe (CP19XL with fiberglass interior liner shown).





With that said, Brackish speaks wisdom...yep, I guess I would go with mildew resistant gloss exterior  unless you do carpet the walls as above.

And for other ideas, I adored the teak coaming rails with genny tracks we had on our 16. Not too hard to make or install either.





And a new mainsheet block with cam cleat...worlds better than the stock setup.



Aft led halyard and homemade roller furler...



Remember the cockpit needs to be supported underneath.  Perhaps support it with wood and leave the middle portion open for storage.  From the factory it's a huge chunk of foam.
And last but not least...gotta foil the rudder.  Hands down the best performance modification you can make these for these boats.

[Jordan]

Salty, great pics, I love those ideas for the interior and the exterior extra trim on that boat looks great, maybe a project for next year. Also I have read about the foil rudder and may chose to do that soon as my budget allows because I have read many good things about it.  This year is primarily about getting this boat seaworthy and looking good, next offseason I tweak it.   Anyway I have some new pics for those of you following the rebuild.  I have attached the bunks and fiberglassed them in, still need to ad a final layer of epoxy to the top and glass to the area between the bunk support and keel and over the keel itself.  Once that is done I try to figure out how to do a support and paint.  I am thinking about doing a light sand, a layer of primer and then premium exterior grade latex paint with a anti-mildew property.   This boat had a piece of plywood for the support of the cockpit which had long rotted out here is a pic of said support.

I am thinking of replacing this support with a 4x4 post saturated with epoxy and glassed in and then a 2x6 piece on top stretching from port to starboard as this would be much more sturdy than the original design.  Anyone have thoughts on this?

Here is a pic of the bunks with a bead of thickened epoxy on the area where they secure and pics of the supports covered in thickened epoxy.




The bunks were put into place and the seams were filled with thickened epoxy to form a fillet




The areas between the bunks and the hull and the between the bunks and supports were painted with clear epoxy and then covered with 4" and 2" fiberglass tape respectively. I then wetted out the fiberglass.




Thats it for now, this week I plan on finishing fiberglass and epoxy on the interior and painting. Wish me luck!

[JParody]

Good morning!

         You did not happen to make a paper or card board pattern of the bunk boards before you put them in did you?   My boards have been altered and broken off in places.  They will be taken out in pieces.   For this summer the deck has to stay on and I am going to cover what is inside temporarily to make do so I can sail!

         Again, I am enjoying your renovation!   Thank you.

     Jill   : )

[Salty19]

Again...super nice work, it's coming together nicely.

As for the cockpit support, I'm not familiar with the support you've shown.  As far as I knew, the support was a rigid block of foam sitting between the footwell bottom and the keel (could have been horizontal ply under the foam, not sure).  However based on your pics, perhaps your plywood method was done on older CP16's or a prior owner? Dunno.

I'm thinking to support the footwell on either side of the bunks (vertical wood along the length with two or three braces across but leaving the center as open as possible to make more storage space.  Sort of like a shipping crate--open on the sides and front/back but framed. As long as the footwell is supported well and the fit is tight so that flex is minimal (read: almost none), that's the extent of the structural needs there.     Given the small size of the CP16 cabin, that would really add a ton of space for light stuff (awning, PFD's, towels).  You'll want to store heavier items (battery, cooler) up front.  You could even install a small flush hatch in the footwell to access small things, but with caution for structural integrity as well as leaks.  Just an idea, not sure how to execute that correctly.

I think Bob mentioned awhile back about possibly using flexible hose for the cockpit drains.  The idea was that if some flex occurred, maybe due to heavy crew, the integrity of fixed/stiff PVC could be compromised over the long term (thus why a lot of these boats end up leaking in this area after years of use).  With flexible tubing, drain integrity would not be an issue.

Curious if you're going to build in any shelving in the deck.  Seems like the area under the ports are kinda wasted space.

Hmm..what else.   If you'll be using a slip, I suggest more ventilation.  Maybe a dorade box or a Beckson vent-o-mate.   Another thing is a drink holder or two.  Stuff flies around quite a bit on CP16's during heeling.   

[JTMeissner]

Salty, definitely the original design as far as the footwell support.  It's the one piece of wood not replaced in the tmdrozd restoration, and I have the same in mine.  However, I thought there were metal angle brackets that the vertical pieces were tied into...  Guess that rusty discoloration is not rust.

Jordan, didn't notice before, but one can really see the waterline in the rear of your boat.  Looks like she was sitting on a trailer with the tongue in the air to fill with so much water back there.

Back to the support bracket: no reason to think additional support would be improper, but then again, it would add to more weight in the rear of the boat (small as it might be).  Maybe the compromise is 2x4s?  And then perhaps to meets the intent Salty suggested, another set forward right where most step before climbing into the cabin?

Thanks for keeping us informed on the true inner working of our boats.

-Justin

[NateD]

I would keep that area under the cockpit as free and clear as possible, it would make great storage space and make for a more comfortable sleeping area. I was planning on removing the foam and building better supports before I sold my 16. If I were you, I would look at reinforcing the backside of the cockpit sole with fiberglass and/or wood stringers, then either 1 post in the very middle of the sole, or four small supports at the corners with a stronger running latterly. With 1 post in the middle (or even 2 posts, one fore and one aft) you could add cushions to the middle area and essentially create a large queen size sleeping area spanning the entire interior, which would make sleeping aboard much more comfortable. Even if you don't make a filler cushion, the extra knee room in the quarter berth would be nice.

[Jordan]

Thanks for all of the support!
Jill, I have rough cutouts made of foam and  an entire bunk which is split in two, but still able to piece together for a cutout. 
Nate, I've been toying with the idea of just using one solid post as a support near where the old support is.  I think it would be more structurally sound, take up less space and be easier to fabricate.
Justin, Yup looks like someone filled it full of water, put it on its transom and hoped the water would drain out, maybe thinking the scuppers would drain it? They also drilled a hole in the back of the keel to drain it there.  She was used and abused. 
Salty, I like the idea of flexible hose as opposed to the PVC, I just might do that.  I haven't figured out yet the shelving situation and I think I might wait until the deck is back on to do that portion because I will have a better feel for space.

[Saluki86]

Hey Jordan,

Been following this thread with interest.  How is it going?

Sal

[skip1930]

You can add floatation but she ain't gonna float. But the hull will be quiet when beating into the wind.

A little factory work at foaming under the vee birth of my CP-19.  

White or grey Restoleum oil base.

skip.