Striping... to break or not to break?

[MKBLK]

Hi All,

I'm planning to put a nice 2" wide vinyl stripe just under the rubber rub-rail on Pegasus. The question is: Should I loosen the chainplate and run the tape between it and the hull? Or, simply cut the tape on either side of the chainplate. Fortunately, for me, it's a CP16 and only has a single chainplate on either side.

Marty K.

[wes]

If you loosen the chainplates, you'll have to rebed them in sealant. This is a common leakage point. Depending on age of your boat, it might be a good idea to do this anyway. I loosened mine before running the stripe under, and took advantage of the opportunity to clean, inspect and re-seal the chainplate bolts.

- Wes

[MKBLK]

Wes -

Thanks. My CP16 is 30 years old, so it is probably a good idea to re-seal those holes. On a somewhat related note, I just purchased a pair of teak handrails to install over the two portholes. I'd appreciate some words of wisdom on attaching hardware for strength. The handrails come without hardware, so I assume I will need SS lags. They'll be for function, not necessarily for looking cool. At my advanced age I'm always looking for something to hold on to!

Marty K.

[capt_nemo]

Marty,

After owning, sailing, and working on  8 boats (one of which I built from scratch) I have a few comments for you to consider.

First, the nice 2" vinyl stripe below the rubrail is commonly referred to as a "Cove" stripe while the one at or usually above the waterline is called the "Boot" stripe. To look nice on any boat, consider placing the Cove stripe a few inches below the rub rail so it stands out with the hull color showing above and below. As for the chain plates, rebedding them might be a good idea but not really necessary if a problem is not indicated. Running the vinyl tape up to the chain plates on both sides and trimming close with a razor blade or X-Acto knife is good enough. As the old adage goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

As for those handrails, for SAFETY sake strongly consider through bolting for strength (with large fender washers inside) using a recessed hole in the handrail and then fill the top of the hole with a teak plug and sand smooth.

capt_nemo

[AFurlan]

The tape may shrink over time so where you trim may slowly produce a gap, may be best to lift the plates apply the tape, and replace the plate over the tape with new sealant.
On the hand rails: some are fastened from the outside in using 3/16 S/S bolts with cap nut on the inside of the cabin...this will produce a strong hand hold (not just cosmetics), or you may place S/S screws from the inside throught the hull and into the handrails, this too is strong yet the bolt method is stronger...dont forget the sealant.

[wes]

I have a 19; not sure how the 16's handrails differ. Mine are through-bolted with acorn nuts on the inside. The 3/16" S/S flat head bolts are countersunk, with teak plugs glued in place and sanded flat before varnishing. Handrail bases and bolts are bedded in sealant. Sounds like a big pain to install, but not so bad really and the results are beautiful, plus you could probably pick up the entire boat by those handrails without them coming out. A nice secure feeling.

- Wes

[skip1930]

" I'd appreciate some words of wisdom on attaching hardware for strength. The handrails come without hardware, so I assume I will need SS lags "

Don't assume. No lags...Go to Ace Hardware. Buy those non-stainless steel fasteners that are a stud with one end in a machine thread. The other end as a wood screw. Pick the right fit for the handrails both in dia AND length. Half the stud has to be buried in the wood hand rail. The other half has to come through the fiberglass and have enough thread for a ss flat washer and ss acorn nut. You can always cut the machine screw end off and fit the acorn nut on so it skinnies up to the flat washer tightly. Of course if cutting the machine thread to length [ I grind mine down to length with a grinder and stone.. Messy but gets 'em shorter ] a standard nut goes up the thread first so after cutting/grinding the machine thread can be re-established when backed off and ready for the acorn nut.

Pilot hole drill the wood hand rails and epoxy the wood screws in. Double nut the machine screw ends to turn the wood screws in.
After cure, hold the wood to where you think the handrail need to go.
If they look like they are in the right place, take a drop of paint [ Q-tip ] and dab paint onto the ends of the machine screws.
Just touch the handrails to the fiberglass...this marks the hole-to-be.
Look inside to figure out where the studs when placed on the paint dots will come through.
Drill a tiny pilot hole through the cabin top. At this point you can measure the length of the machine thread necessary.
I scotch tape the fiberglass at the start of the hole prior to drilling to limit chipping of the 'gel coat'. Remove the tape after drilling.
If you like the placement of the hand rail and holes drill the holes for the machine screws.
Goop using 3-M 5200 slow set...goop the heck out of the holes and threads and full length of the studs sticking out and bolt it all to get her.
Every 20 minutes come back and wipe up the 3-M 5200 as it'll run for a while.  But you'll be sealed.

Use the same 3-M when  removing chain plate, stripe and replace the chain plates.

A hint from my college days at a sign company...mix up a soapy batch of dish washing detergent and brush on this bubbly mix. With a helper lay-on the stripe. Look at it and move it around to where you like it. Squeezy out the water. The stripe will be applied.

skip.

[MKBLK]

Wow! Isn't this a great forum? Boy, do I have a lot to think about now. All good stuff! Thanks to all for sharing your experience and expertise. It's really appreciated.

I've had this little boat for only a few months and been out in it only a few times, but I really love it. An interesting observation: I'm almost a septuagenarian and since I brought Pegasus home, I haven't felt this good physically in years! All the squirming around most do some good (with the exception of the new found bumps and bruises I seem to have acquired).

Thanks for the great input!

Marty K.

[Salty19]

Guys--DO NOT USE 5200 for bedding hardware.  It's a strong adhesive guys....use sealant and let the bolts/nuts/screws do the holding!! Else you will not be able to remove the hardware later on for refinishing, upgrades, resealing, etc. 

Bedding compound or sealant (not silicone based) is what you want to use.

[skip1930]

Yep. 3-M 5200 held my cast rudder Assembly to the transom really well, till I heated the goop up then with all bolts gone I could beat the casting off with a rubber mallet. It's factory I think.

skip.

[Bob23]

Someone at the site recently posted a link to info about using butyl tape. I might use 4000 on my upcoming rebedding project.
bob23

[MKBLK]

Salty - I just spent a very enjoyable 20 minutes watching the slideshow of Island Time. You are truly an inspiration! I know my Pegasus will never be as nice as Island Time, but, nevertheless, I'm inspired to do what improvements I can with my limited talent (and cash flow!). Pegasus deserves it. My latest completed project was a deck I made for the cockpit floor from recycled wood and a crutch to support the mast (from recycled vinyl edgeboard). Next project will be the installation of the handrails... and the list goes on!

Skip - I'm leaning toward the wood/machine screw idea. I think it'll hold just fine. If it doesn't, the landing shouldn't be too hard... I hope!

Capt-Nemo - Location of the stripe is still an open question. I think I'll put a trial piece up high and one down several inches and stare at them for a while. I also plan on applying the boat's name, a la, Island Time towards the stern. I'll scotch tape that in place and stare some more...

Marty K.

[capt_nemo]

Marty,

Sounds like a good plan. Enjoy your boat!

capt_nemo

[MKBLK]

Took advantage of the nice weekend and since I wasn't able to go sailing, applied the striping... looks terrific! I now have a nice 2" maroon accent stripe the length of the boat and across the stern. I decided to place it just under the rub rail and I'm glad I did. I also opted to cut the tape with a razor blade rather than break the bolts securing the chain plates. Came out looking just fine. I'm very pleased with the boat's appearance now.

Still have to apply the boat's name to the hull. I'll do that next week if the weather cooperates.

Marty K.

[capt_nemo]

Marty,

Glad all went well, and most importantly, that YOU are satisfied with the new look of your boat.

Next to sailing, I particularly like working on boats to improve them in one way or another.

Just finished installing a homade bowsprit, bobstay, and whisker stays for my Sun Cat today. Looks great and I really enjoyed the process!

capt_nemo

This is a photo WITHOUT the Bowsprit but with my homade Nylon Drifter which really helps in light air. Needed a Bowsprit to open up that tiny foretriangle area.