Buying an 81 cp23/1 questions. *update, bought it!*

[Frantic]

Hello everyone, I'm currently a cp16 owner and sailing my cp16 has inspired my dad to get his own com pac...except he wanted something a bit bigger so he decided on a cp23. So we have been looking for a while and finally found one that seems to be in pretty good shape. It's got nice new bottom paint and tons of add ons. I do have a couple questions/concerns though that I would appreciate some advice.

First, then trailer the boat is on is made for a power boat and it was rigged up for the cp23. It's a float on trailer which I don't think makes much sense for a boat this size but the ramp we will be using a plenty steep so that shouldn't be a huge problem. But the supports on the side of the boat are flat. They don't hug the hull like the curved supports on my cp16 do. Do you guys think that will be a problem? more specifically will it put to much pressure on the keel on on the points where the hull sits on them? I'm including pics at the end here so you can see what Im talking about.

Second, where the shroud attachments go on the hull, it seems like they where damaged...every single one looks likenthe one I'm go to post... All six of them. Isnthis just basic wear and tear or is this more serious?

Also, any other specific things I should look for? I did all the usual stuff like check for soft spots and checked the bilge (about an inch of fresh water in there. Probably from rain. Did find a couplemsmall leaks in the cabin top but nothing serious.) Etc.

Thanks in advance!

[bob lamb]

Congratulations to your Dad on getting the 23!

Concerning the trailer bunks:  they are not designed to support the weight of the boat...the keel rollers do that. 

Concerning the chain plates:  well, I'll wait and see what your pic shows.

Check out my pics on the link below for a shot of my boat on her trailer.

BobL

[Bob23]

Frantic:
   I'll echo Bob's note. My 1985 23/2 sits on a LoadRite powerboat trailer. It has no bunks at all but instead 4 pads which sit on 4 posts. No problemo...the boat sits on her keel.
   If the chainplates are twisted and/or bent, I'd replace 'em. Can you post a photo?
bob23

[HideAway]

As far as the bunks go what you are showing is normal.  The bunks just hold the boat steady.   I ve never been a fan of keel rollers for such a heavy boat so I used a 2x12.  We just drive ours on to the trailer but it could be winched up too.  My trailer bunks have three supports on each side so it does have a bit of a curve. 

I made a couple of videos about building the trailer - here s one   http://youtu.be/wYkU3GsdOGc     Notice how high I built the keel guides - works well for us.

Can t see anything about the chain plates - but Bob23 is right - just replace them it you have concerns - having six of them makes a catastrophic failure unlikely- I have seen much larger boats with only two. 

The leaks are probably from the bolts holding the hand rails on.

All and all the 23 is a very sweet boat - I may be a bit biased though -- Matt

[Frantic]

Doh! Didn't realize I put the same picture twice, sorry!

Thanks for the replies. Very helpful. I feel much better about the trailer now. So, you guys ever have any trouble retrieving on a low tide w/o rollers? Do you just wait for high tide?

Here's the missing pic:


The chain plates themselves are fine I think. It's the "slot" they go through that I'm concerned about. I feel like it could maybe lead to future problem...but maybe not. I don't see any cracking or anything that wouldnseem to indicate that but it's always best to be sure.

[Billy]

Chainplates are fine.
In fact, I was at the factory this am getting my new rails. I have a twisted chain plate on my 19 and I ask about it. Matt said he would just use the claw of a hammer and bend it back. I asked if he was serious and he said yea. It's the bolts the could fail, not the plate.

[RCAN]

Frantic,

Congrats to your Dad for finding and considering the Com Pac 23. I truly wish you luck.

If you're going to winch the boat up onto the trailer, I feel that you should perhaps have some outdoor carpeting covering the bunks. It seems like the carpeting will protect that new bottom paint from getting scraped as the keel slides over the bunk upon launching and retrieving.

I'm no expert, but regarding the chain plate, wouldn't you want to somehow patch up the area where the plate goes through the hull and deck joint? From the photo I get the impression that if the boat heeled enough or had some heavy wave action, you could have water coming in through there.

Just my observations from the photos. See what the other guys think.

Looks great.....hope this works out for you.

Robert

[Frantic]

Hey, thanks again for the responses.

Those gaps are definitely going to be filled with something. Don't know what yet. Maybe silicone. Also, we will probably redo where the keel rests and make more of a proper keel guide. Adding carpeting is definitely going to be done.

Hitting then chain plate with a hammer? Well if the guys at Hutchins say it's ok I guess it is

[mrtoad]

great - finding a 23 - a bit of work - fun doing it - but . . .

. . . will bring hours of joy

best wishes on your projects

mr toad

[bob lamb]

Just an observations: I don't think Billy's info meant to "hit em with a hammer", but use the claw end to bend them back.  What do you think, Billy?

BobL

[jthatcher]

good looking boat!   before you break out the silicone, however,  you might want to investigate this site   http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
this guy has some very definite opinions regarding the use of silicone in a marine environment   of course, you just might find some other folks who pretty adamantly support the opposite view.. funny how that happens in life!  jt

[millsy]

My 1981 C23 had the same mastic type sealant around the slots for the chainplates, and was leaking into the interior.  The slots are cut very close to the inside of the flange joint so are not sealed as well as other areas along the flange.  It's easy enough to remove the chainplates, clean out the slots and fill the hull/deck joint with some 5200 to seal the joint.    If you can remove the teak batten along the inside and excavate/seal it from here also, even better. 

I don't think it's necessary to seal around each chainplate/slot per say, just flush it out on a regular basis so debris does not fill it up and lead to crevice corrosion.  If you seal this slot I would not recommend silicone.

Regards,  Chris
C-23 Dolce

[Billy]

Yes, he meant to put the claw of the hammer around the top of the plate and BEND it back. Not hitting it with the head of the hammer, even though these boats are probably tough enough to take a few strikes from a hammer.

So Bob, when would be a good time for me to come take a look at your Pilot House and have you take me sailing?

I'll be out on Lake Tarpon this Sat. with the West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron and then out again on Sunday with my church for a picnic at Anderson Park. You are welcome to come along on my 19 either day!

Here is a link to the W.C.T.S.S. website in case you didn't know about them.
http://ftp.ij.net/wctss/wctss/

[wes]

I may be in the minority here, but I would be very concerned about anything that compromises the strength of a chain plate. They carry the full force of the sails, and if one fails in a strong wind you'll be very lucky if you don't lose your mast overboard, which is an experience I desperately hope never to have. If any of those chain plates have been bent out of shape I would replace them asap. They are not expensive - Hutchins has the CP 19 bobstay chain plate for $17 and the others are probably not much more (Matt or Gerry could tell you). Bend it back into shape with a hammer? I don't think so.

- Wes

[Billy]

it's not the chain plates that will fail but the bolts connecting them to the hull and the pin connecting the plate to the standing rigging. I know it sounds sketchy but when Matt Hutchins, the guy who has been building these boats his whole life, told me that I trust him.

I bet you can look long and hard and not find an instance of a failed chain plate. The connectors are a completely different story.