CP 16/3 Mainsheet Boom Attachment

[Tim F]

Hi,

When I took the boat out for the first time this past weekend I didn't feel confident that I had rigged the mainsheet/boom attachment correctly. The owner's manual is  little unclear on it. Does this look correct. The topping lift and outhaul seem right to me. The topping lift has the red flecks and leads down only because it is way tool long and is coiled outside of the picture.



Thanks.

-Tim

[Craig Weis]

Nope. Not right as far as I'm concerned. Well it would work but let us simplify things a bit.

Take the block and it's clevis and place that clevis clean through the hole provided in the tang that is attached to the end of the boom.

Less clutter and less stuff clanging together. The other clevis looks to be the clevis that is needs the halyard for either the main or the head sail spliced into it. The twist and lock bar goes through the 'lift plate' sewn into the sail.

Now the picture does not show the entire block. But I'm willing to bet that the block is the 4 gang [4 purchase] standard side by side Com-Pac Yacht's block. This was always a pain for me because the block always twisted around and by doing that in light air would not play out very easy. So I replaced it with a Garhauer in line 4 purchase block. Result; No twist. See the picture below. A block like that.

Most of the Com-Pac hardware is by this outfit. Also bought Garhauer's Boom Vang at The All Sail Boat Show at Navy Pier in Chicago, usually first week in February.

http://www.garhauermarine.com/catalog.cfm

skip.

[Billy]

yea lose the unnecessary shackel (less is more).
However, I would put a block (a little one) for the outhaul. Especially if you have a loose footed main.

[newt]

I have a mid boom sheet Tim, but generally simpler is better. It's your boat, and you have plenty of time to think about it as you sail. I don't think there is any wrong and right in sailboats as long as the item (in this case the mainsheet) does its job. Take it off and try it a number of different ways- find the solution that works for you.
(That said, I will now put on my flame proof shorts and life preserver)

[JBC]

Hi Tim,

Funny, your question and pic came at the perfect time.  I decided to change out the double block on the end of my C-16 boom today and discovered immediately that the new block would not attach directly because the shackle end (where the clevis pin secures the shackle to the block) was too big to go though the tang hole on the end of the boom.  Hence, the need for some additional "something" to go between the tang and the block shackle.

I had seen your post before starting to change the block and wondered why you were having to figure out something to make it work.  Now I know.  Unsure of exactly what I'll wind up doing yet, but the double block I bought (a Ronstan) happens to have a feature to lock the clevis pin in the block itself at either 0 or 90 degrees; adding an additional shackle as you tried would change the angle of the block (unless it swivels which, as Skip says, is a pain).  I can at least fix the block, however I secure it, at the right angle for the mainsheet coming up from the transom to avoid twists.  I'm thinking of using a simple twist shackel on the tang and attach it as you did (pin through tang hole), since it would perserve the original angle, though it might have too much play.  I did notice your shackle appears to be one meant for tying a line to, such as a halyard.  A simple, open U shaped shackle might work better.

Thanks for your post and a great pic.

Jett

[Tim F]

JBC,

I didn't set this up myself. I just bought the boat, am new to sailing, and was trying to figure out what it should look like. I'm not sure why the PO set it up this way.

I'm glad the picture was helpful. Post one of you new configuration when you get it worked out.

-Tim