about to buy a 19/3, couple lil' questions

[Richard B.]

Howdy!

I'm about to drive down to Florida, from Boston, on the 28th of this month to purchase a 19/3 (after careful inspection) and haul it back.

Could anyone help me out with a couple questions?

-I'm thinking that I'm going to bring a spare set of wheel hubs for the trailer. (what's worse than being stuck on the side of road trying to scrounge up hard to find trailer parts?)
       Does the standard '87, 19/3 era trailer have a 4 or 5 lug wheel?

-Is it true that there are no eyebolts on the stern for strapping? What are the preffered methods for strapping this girl on while trailering? ...just going over the stern section, from the trailer on one side, to the trailer to the other?

-Any other tips for my road trip? ...or specifics related to this boat that I should look out for in my inspection?

Thanks, very much!!!

[Craig Weis]

Lets see here, my trailer has four bolts.

Be sure to air-up the tires to sidewall notation of pressure.

Check, check, check.

No eyes to strap this 2000 lbs boat down. Not necessary.

Drive smoothly, no trailer brakes so you'll not be able to stop fast!

Keel boards will keep her centered-up on the trailer.

You may want to bring an adjustable spanner, a small floor jack and a few blocks of wood...why?
'cause you may want to adjust the pressure of the side boards under the hull to more or less support the weight of the hull on the trailer.

Don't let the hull 'oilcan' by holding up too much weight. Let the weight sit on the rollers under the keel. P.S. the keel will not sit on each roller, you'll see daylight under one or two rollers. No big deel..

And don't tow this boat with the bow strap/winch so tight that you pull or  cock the boat off the rollers. Just snug it a wee bit.

skip. You picked a great boat!  :lol:

[Craig Weis]

Sorry I just looked at my trailer with boat sitting on it. Looks like a five bolt pattern, not a four bolt.

It is a PERFORMANCE TRAILER.

Those 1.5 x 1.5 square legs that hold up the carpeted wood boards under the hull are easy to adjust with the floor jack.

What I did TO ADD MORE TOUNGE WEIGHT on the ball for better control down the highway was to move the trailer jack behind the bow/winch support. [This moves the bow/winch support foward to the telescoping stop strap welded on the trailer tube.]

And by doing this the WHOLE DARN BOAT SCOOTS FOWARD ABOUT 6 or so inches. Maybe more. What you want is weight up front. She won't fishtail then while going down the road.

Check out my pics on the usps [Com-Pac 19XL]. [a very good trailer shot with boat on it.] site and yahoo site [skip's pics]

Watch that mast! and bring lots of DUCT TAPE. If you have a furler, make sure it is supported very well. No bouncy no bendy, get it?

Bring an aluminium five step ladder so you can climb up in to the boat

skip.

[Craig Weis]

Oh another thing.
When walking around on the deck with the boat on the trailer, you will find that as you go astern, the trailer will tend to pull the foward ball hitch trailer jack off the pavement. In otherwords the ball hitch will 'reach for the sky', when not attached to the tow vechical.

What I did was to make a easy slide and lock jack stand on very last cross member of trailer. I drop the rear jack stand down and tighten the locking bolt with a welded on Tee handle, then a few cranks up on the front trailer jack [forcing back jack down hard on the pavement] and BAM! She won't move. See the usps pics.
Better safe then sorry. :lol:

[Craig Weis]

OK so I think of this stuff after I submit the posts

What I did was to saw off two 2x4's to fully span the bow and stern pulpets.

Then with my cordless drill a popped two holes each up through the wood, correctly spaced to accept a 1/4"  'U' bolt and flat bar [flat bar comes with 'U' bolt] and screwed the whole assembly together with 1/4" butterfly wing nuts [seperate] down on top of the flatbars, 'U' bolts are under the pulpet tubes, 1" dia. tubes so buy [4] 1 1/2" 'U'bolts or what ever looks right to you. This anchors the wood down very well.

Here is the important thing. YOU OFF-SET THE MAST TO THE SIDE OF THE BOAT SO YOU CAN CLIMB DOWN INTO THE CABIN A LITTLE EASIER.

PLACE the mast off center, cantalevered, if you will on your 2x4's. And duct tape the whole mess down with terry cloth towles rapped around the mast, than tie down again with a piece of line.

You did bring a whole bunch of 1/4" line? And a knife? And pvc 3-M brand [don't be cheap, get the good 3-m stuff] tape so all the standing rigging can be taped to the mast and rails and where ever else necessary.

Tie down the tiller/rudder assy.

Radio antenna on top-O-mast, at mast head? Anchor light. Watch the wiring at deck plate.

Don't loose the through bolt, washer, and butterfly nut that goes through the mast step and hole in the mast.

Once you have the mast stepped and standing rigging is adjusted, I crawl on to the Vee-birth and look up at the mast through the hatch to see that the mast is straight as an arrow. You'll be surprised a little tension or lack of will pull and roll the mast to a 'kinky' curve. Don't sail like that.

I kick the mast foward a little bit to fight the boat's natural tendence to 'weatherhelm' or turn up into the wind, when hauling ass.

Once all this is in tune [atuned?] I insert circular split rings, not split cotterpins as these can tear the sails. DO NOT GANG WITH ONLY ONE PIN... THE CHAIN PLATE PINS. USE TWO PINS PER SIDE. And never undo any of this. [A CP 19-3 may have three standing rigging per side. I don't know].

My C-P 19 XL mast will come down or go up with out disconnecting the standing rigging, except for the back stay. I loosen that so I can undo the pin on the foward stay that comes through my Harken 'drum' on my furler.

Just put a line on the mast head, or put a line on the foward stay, loosen the back stay, pull the pin on the foward stay and lower the mast. by walking backward over the cabin and closed cabin hatch and down into the cockpit and finially on to the stern pulpet.

Undo the deck step bolt and place the front of the mast on the bow, sliding her foward. Tie up the whole mess with pvc tape [because it comes off easy and cleaner than duct tape].
No big deal.

The extra guy in the front with the masthead line is a safety guy. He should be easing the line through some cleat-like thing [anything] attached to the trailer. He could hold the mast if you need to let go for a better grip or to jump down into the cockpit.

[Craig Weis]

Hey Richard, I'll be happy to make a copy of my CP-19 owner's manual if you find that you did not aquire one with the purchase ofm your 'new-to-you' boat. :wink:
I have other stuff too. on trailer, sails electronics ect.
Let me know. owlsnest34@hotmail.com

skip.