Anchor and rode for the Suncat

[Joseph]

Based on previous experience I wanted a Bruce (i.e., a real Bruce). The Belgian ones are no longer made but I was lucky to find a 5 Kg (11 lbs) on sale. I had a 17 lbs from my previous boat but sold it as for the SC it was an overkill. For the same reason I also decided against the rode I had with that anchor (30 ft of 1/2" BBB and 200 ft of 5/8" nylon rope).

I want to stick to a combined rode of chain (HT 1/4") and rope (3-strand nylon, 3/8") but with enough chain to anchor with scope 4:1 with chain alone in as much depth as reasonable (4:1 with chain alone is equivalent in holding power to 7:1 with combined rode). The Suncat has 3 ft to the water at the chocks, so 40 ft of chain would allow for anchoring 4:1 on chain alone in depths of 7 ft. HT chain 1/4"is 0.75 lbs per foot. which means that the anchor (11 lbs) plus the entire rode (30 lbs for the chain and abt 9 lbs for the rope) will be adding some 50 lbs to the bow. Which to me seems reasonable since the motor will be adding some 50 lbs to the stern.

For anchoring in deeper waters the rode will be at least 160 ft of the 3/8" 3-strand nylon rope, which should allow for up to 10:1 scope in depths of 17 ft and 7:1 in up to 25 ft.

The shackle at the anchor will be 5/16" and the rope will be spliced directly to the chain using the crown 3-strand "shackle" splice described by Brian Toss in his Rigger's book (it is also fun to do...).

I would much appreciate knowing what others are using as ground tackle for the SC and whether what I propose above seems reasonable.

I have yet to decide on the 2nd anchor but in my previous boat I had a Delta which was great for grassy bottoms.

J.

[ontarioSuncat]

Hi!
Mine is a 11# SS Bruce with 10 feet of 1/4 chain and 150 feet of 3/8 line. Back up is a Fotress FX7 with 10 feet of Chain and 100 feet of 3/8 line. Also have 2x100 feet of 3/8 line to tie to shore. I anchor from the side and walk it to the bow. I keep the forward locker for dry storage. I don't have a "Chain pipe" as I wanted to keep any waves out of the boat. While cruising I tie off the anchor back to the bow pulpit. Will send you a pic.
John

[Joseph]

Hey John!

Great to hear from you. An arrangement like yours is likely what I will get for my 2nd anchor. Great idea to have a long line for tying up to shore (great for webbing in the North Channel!).

J.

[ontarioSuncat]

I used some spare sunbrella and made a bag to hold the anchor and rode. Put some grommets around the top and pass a line through to close it up. I added a few webbing loops to the side and bottom to tie it down to the deck.
See in the NC !

[Craig Weis]

The vinyl dipped anchor chain keeps the chain nice and neat, won't fall overboard and pull the 150 foot of 3 strand anchor line [tied to the compression post just in case something lets loose] out into the sea and wrapping around something it's nor suppose to wrap around. And it's quiet, not sliding around.

skip.

[patfurr]

I recently replaced my 11# claw anchor with a 13# Mantus and I am very happy.  It fits perfectly on the bow roller with no way to knock on the gelcoat.  I have deployed this anchor in varying bottom conditions from sand to mud to rocky and it hooks up and stays hooked even in wandering conditions.  I recently set it just off a beach in sand and left the sail up and watched the boat wader around.  It was in about 6 feet of water with about 40 feet of rode out 10' of that chain.  I put on my mask, snorkel and fins to observe it and it was essentially rock solid and winds were in the 10-12 knot range.  Very impressive.  I packed my old Lewmar Ccaw with 150' rode and 10' chain into a nice canvas bag for use on gunk holing as a back-up or for Bahamian set up.  I feel much better about my staying put now. 

[hoddinr]

Just replaced the chain and rode on Nomad with 150' of 1/2 nylon three strand with 10 feet of 1/4" chain.  The PO had 5/8 in anchor line which was overkill and took up more space than I liked down below in the anchor locker. 

Anchor is the standard Bruce Claw type, which works well in our west FL sandy bottoms for the most part.  For a stern anchor I have a Danforth with chain and some light 1/4 in line. 

So far everything works well.

Ron

[Dave-in-RI]

I just purchased a 13# Rocna Fisherman (https://rocna.com/products/rocna-fisherman/) which is essentially the same design as the Mantus Supreme but has a pre-drilled hole on the leading edge for a line & buoy for yanking a stuck anchor out just in case. The 6kg (13 pound) fit the Sun Cat specs better than the 10 or 15 pound Mantus, too. Here's the sizing chart: https://www.westmarine.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-wm-master-catalog/default/dw4e69ccb9/images/legacy-pdf/AnchorSizingGuide.pdf I could've probably gone one size smaller, but I've got a bow roller and might be in some grassy areas, so the slightly heavier didn't matter. I went with galvanized because of the extra care Rocna recommends for the stainless finish ("aint nobody got time for that"). I opted for the Fisherman model vs the regular Rocna or the Vulcan because it had the long rock slot for frequent deployment in suspect areas where it might get stuck, yet had the regular spot for overnighting or leaving the boat. For my needs, that's great. I don't anticipate truly extended cruising w/ a Sun Cat.

I also went with 17' of 1/4" Grade 43 galvanized chain, 200' of pre-spliced 3/8" triple braid nylon rode (West Marine brand) and a 5/16" galvanized shackle. No swivel.

The total for this at West Marine in June 2023 was $530 after tax and with free shipping.

If this proves to be a bad choice, I'll let you all know.

[Dave-in-RI]

Update-- unable to post pics for the time being.


My anchor and rode came yesterday, and I don't think either fits very well-- hoping for some advice.

I will be sailing and doing some long weekends on the boat in RI and ME (lakes and ocean-- gravelly bottom), plus some grassy areas, so went with a 13 pound Rocna Fisherman. I'd rather not go smaller, and found a small grapnel anchor in the box of junk that came with the boat, so that'll be the lunch hook on calm days.

The 1/4" G43 chain does fit into the anchor deck pipe (stamped SeaDog on it like the scuppers were, so I found the item page: https://sea-dog.com/groups/447-hinged-deck-pipe

It closes, and does "lock" the chain there, but it's not as closed as it is without a chain inside. 1/4" chain is stronger, heavier, and comfier to pull up, so I went with that over a smaller gauge, but now I'm not sure if I should keep that for other uses and get something smaller so the hinged deck pipe cover stays fully closed (easy test is getting that, and if the chain doesn't lock itself in there, that defaults me back to the 1/4" as final answer). Pics attached.

The anchor fits inside the tang and forestay hoop on the bow roller (presumably factory installed), but the widening shank of the anchor hook doesn't allow the scoop/plow part to snug-up to the bow roller as much as I'd like it do do. It still feels secure laterally, though. If I take it out of the tang, and just hold it up to the roller, it would fit closer without the pointy part of the plow hitting the bow. This could be achieved with a taller front tang (nut and bolt on the exterior of the bow roller-- no need for climbing inside), but I don't know if that's necessary. I didn't think to check if / how far beyond the deck pipe the anchor shank would extend if fully-up, but it'd be similar. I'd rather not downsize the anchor, and that's the style and model I really wanted, so that is a fixed variable-- even if it looks like a bull moose rack of antlers. Pics attached...

Also, why does the front tine rotate on the bow roller-- is that by design? Does that "hook over" some other types of anchors? Is it just loose? (don't think that's the case, it seems purposeful)

Any suggestions?

Thanks, hive mind!

-Dave in RI

[Dave-in-RI]

trying again for pics-- it's only letting me do this one, but just know for reference (and my humble request for advice) that you can push it by hand all the way up, just would need a taller tang

[Dave-in-RI]

held up by hand / as far as it could go

[Dave-in-RI]

last one (is letting me do one at a time), showing the hinged deck pipe partially open (that's as closed as i could get it by rotating the chain around w/ a goal in mind)

[bruce]

Dave,

I just downloaded your first photo, resized it, and reposted it in the Testing Forum. Looks fine. I use Preview on my Mac, it lets me specify dimensions, in this case 800 pixels on the longest length, other dimensions proportional.

I don't think the slot in the hawse pipe cover is meant to "lock" the chain, I certainly wouldn't trust it. You have a bow cleat right where you need it.

As you point out, the pivoting tang would play better if a bit taller. You may get enough height just adjusting the bend on this one, or make a new one, it wouldn't take long. Tom Ray used his to secure his Lewmar claw, clearly a lower profile. (Fourth photo down.) Looks effective but it could be hard to get the hardware to hook easily.

[bruce]

Sorry, forgot the link. Fourth photo down in the text, sixth overall.
https://www.tropicalboating.com/2015/09/sun-cat-wily-conch-for-sal

[Dave-in-RI]

Thanks, Bruce. Good idea to try and make the existing tang taller; it doesn't need much. Since I have yet to install the Mastendr Plus kit in my garage, I realize I should temporarily attach the shackle to the forestay attachment "hoop" to see how much that'll interfere with any variation of tang-meddling. It must just be that no, Dave, you don't get to have this anchor.