CP-19 Trailer Dimensions

[Greene]

I am considering a couple of 19's that don't have trailers, so I would need to purchase a trailer and adapt it to fit.  I tried to locate a used Com-Pac trailer without any luck.  Hutchins wants a couple grand for a new one so that isn't an option.  I found 2 very suitable trailers in WI that wouldn't require too much work and they are very reasonably priced.  One had a Hunter 22 shoal draft on it originally.  (His boat sank while moored.)  The other one has adjustable bunks but would require me to add the keel support and  guide set-up.

Could someone who has easy access to a 19 trailer take a few measurements for me?  Height of side supports above the keel bearing surface.  How far apart (width) are the side supports?  Distance from bow roller to beginning of the keel support.  Length of each of the supports.  Basically any dimension that would assist me in setting up a trailer for a 19. 

As always, thanks!
Mike

[Salty19]

If you can wait until the weekend (probably Sunday) I would be glad to measure my "performance" brand trailer with a small sketch to assist.   

[Craig Weis]

Maybe you can scale something here. You know the size of the CP-19 and the trailer is typical 3" steel channel right out of a RYERSON STEEL BOOK.  Ought to be able to cipher something from these trailer picks. My trailer is in storage so I can't measure it now. skip.



The trailer use to look like this!!

Boy did I get carried away. Out with it all. First...

The problem has always been that the vee block hits the dolphin cable between the bow sprit and the bow eye tang.
Here is a modification: Placing the rubber vee block below the bow eye and tang. Note black rubber bumper behind tang's pin.
Circlip is to be replaced with better one before the start of next season.


This set up was changed to remove those stiffening bars...

This change removes the bar and uses two bolts. The 10mm aluminum arms stop on nyloc nuts. A cleaner look.

Here is a look~see down the length of the hull. Note lack of unnecessary keel bunks.

A drop down pin and foot to prevent trailer's hitch from raising when the skipper goes astern while on the hard.

Additional hitch weight for towing by pulling trailer axle back as far as possible. I was shooting for the black line.

Things in the way. I see Logan my collie dog resting in the shade. He dislikes sun.

The mast is off set for easy cabin entry. Boom end sits in rope locker with other end tied to portal dog down ring.

The dirt on the bulkhead is embarrassing. GPS is front of my house. Note the temperature. Dock is under willow trees.

Mast off set. A roll of PVC tape holds every thing in place and pulls off nicely in the spring.

Mast is off set on 2 x 4's and 1/4" U-bolts hold the wood on the bow and stern pulpits.

Mast head detail.

[Greene]

Thanks guys.  Any preference on rollers versus carpeted board for the bottom?  I'm not a real fan of the rollers since they don't distribute the weight, but I guess we have been using them successfully for quite a few years.
Mike

[Bob Condon]

Well, mine has bunks which I do like because it does distribute the weight very well.
The difficulty is that if you can not get the boat into the water deep enough (too shallow a ramp and the
exhaust pipe is under water) then it is tough to get the boat off the bunks.

I now am bring some 3" dust collector tube to put around the exhaust pipe and tie
to the roof racks. The pressure keeps water away from the tail pipe...

[Craig Weis]

The Comfort & Joy trailer has that extendable tongue. How ever the Ford Expedition tailpipe occasionally still bubbles, sounds like a 'Stink Potter' at dockside in Belmont Harbor when sliding down the ramp, boat first mind you.

I like rollers 'cause the boat moves on rollers and when I was 'fitting' my boat to the trailer I simply put my 2 ton floor jack under the keel, found the balance point and with a fore and aft piece of 10" long 2" x 4" between the jack and the keel...[to distribute the boats weight, and years before I glued the 6 mm aluminium 'KEEL BOOT' under the boats flat de-painted fiberglass keel]...I then jacked the whole boat up off the trailer.

Then lowered the six hull bunks and moved the winch/vee block assembly as far fwd as possible till it hit the extended collar thingy. To do this required moving the bolt-on trailer screw jack to a new location behind the winch assembly.

Then pushing the trailer back till the boat was as far fwd as possible to put more weight on the ball hitch for better towing. After the move, re adjusted all six the hull bunks back up to follow the hull's curve. Like said. Simple. Oh a second small bottle jack is needed to shove the six 2" x 2" legs and carpeted hull bunks up under the hull. Not too much pressure here. Should be able to pull a flat piece of rag out from between the hull and the carpeted hull bunks. Let her sit on her keel and trailer rollers. That way you can't 'oil-can' the hull in.

I don't know why but the factory had the trailer jack in front of the winch/vee block assembly, and the boat way back astern on the trailer still is too far back for me even though I moved the axle as far astern as possible.. Almost near zero hitch weight to start with from the factory.

skip.

[Salty19]

Mike--Do you need dimensions at this point or are you OK? 

[Greene]

Salty,

Thanks, I think with the pic's and info supplied I can "guestimate"  it.  I sure appreciate the offer to help though.  I just wish something within my limited budget would show up that is less than 500 miles away.  You'd think with all the lakes around WI, MN, Ohio.... that one guy would be selling a CP19.  I am intrigued by the 85 for sale in Punta Gorda , FL (Hence the need for trailer dimensions) and the guy represents the boat as being pretty darn decent.  The other 19 is in MO.  An 84 which is in great condition, has some really nice rigging and sails for a reasonable price.  Take a look on Craigslist and let me know what you think of them. 

Oh well, back to work.  Got to make money for the 19 kitty.

Mike

[Salty19]

I couldn't find the one in FL, but this one in St. Louis does look good w/ trailer included.  I forget if the '84's are version II's with the bowsprit?

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/boa/1641166992.html

Looks like it's ready to go with nice modifications at a good price provided it's as nice as it 'appears'.  Just needs a furler (note IDA rudder).

[Craig Weis]

1984? = No bow sprit. Nice yellow lapper, a light wind or a stormy lapper? I didn't read the ad. Just looked at the pictures on Craig's List. Anyway it's in addition to the other factory lapper?

I still think a cradle on a flatbed 16 foot two axle trailer is a good way to haul it home. Need a Travel Lift though.

My sailing buddy bought the bow sprit kit and I installed it. Hardest part was digging out the bow ring and de-nutting the thing and then pounding it out of the cured 3-M 5200 while scrunched into the chain locker once the chain locker bulkhead was removed.

Best discovery was the fwd stay on this boat was long enough, mainly because the bow sprit with the tac for the cable goes up to meet the cable.

It was an easy job and took all day to do it.

skip. It's a bit expensive though, for what you get with the kit. A guy could make up the kit himself.

Since my computer was re-habbed from it's death, I can no longer click and get to my Frappr or other links on the bottom of my posts. Can anybody click down there and report on the 'linkability' please? In the Frappr is a picture of Wind Rover with the added bow sprit.. Thanx.

[Greene]

Skip,

The 19 I was looking at that needed a trailer is sold already, but it will be nice to have this info available if I find another "shoeless boat". 

I tried the Frapper link a couple times without any luck.  Hope it comes back to life because a bow sprit is something I would definitely add to an older model 19.   I've read a couple of reviews that said there was "No noticable difference in sailing a Com-Pac 19 with a bow sprit."
Even if it didn't make any difference in sailing the 19 I would still want one for looks and mounting the anchor.  Did you guys buy the kit from Hutchins or an aftermarket supplier?

Mike

[Craig Weis]

Yep Steve bought the bow sprit for Wind Rover from Hutchins.
And you will not notice any difference. But that's not the reason he bought it. It just looks cool and he never upgraded to the larger 155% lapper. That's 55% past the mast. Nearly equal to the aft end of the sliding campanion way hatch when fully closed.

skip.

With about 600 hulls out there, CP-19's are hard to find, hard to buy and fun to own. So LowBall the price, you can always go up but it's hard to come down. You can pay a lot more and end up with a lot less.

I bought my 1996 Comfort & Joy used, but never in the water on a trailer with a zero time new 5hp 2 stroke short shaft O/B on 07-June-2001. I think for under $9,000 with a Harken '00' furler. I needed a potty and a compuss. Later added a Raymarine chartplotter and Raymarine ST-40 Bi-Data unit and a few creature comforts, bilge pump, and LED lamps and battery with a solar cell.

 And remember, you never pay too much. Just buy too soon.  

[Greene]

{Quote} "Skip- 1984? = No bow sprit. Nice yellow lapper, a light wind or a stormy lapper? I didn't read the ad. Just looked at the pictures on Craig's List. Anyway it's in addition to the other factory lapper?" {Quote}

Skip, it comes with;  "She has 4 sails; a mainsail, a 135 jib, a storm jib, and a 180 drifter.
All sails are less than 7 years old and in excellent shape."

The boat is in great condition and has nice rigging.  Strange thing is he (or his relative the PO who bought it new) never put a battery in it.  The lights have never been turned on.  The interior looks great as it obviously wasn't used for camping.  No anchor/nav lights = no overnighting.

The negatives:  No bimini (Admiral really likes a bimini), compass/radio/galley/potti.  The biggest negative to me is at $5500 it seems high for an 1984.   I have seen several nice 88 and 89's selling in that range.  

I might just offer something in the mid $4K's and see what happens.

It is interesting that even in this economy the Com-pacs are still selling pretty quickly.  Of the 5 different 19's I have been looking at, 3 are already sold.

Mike

[Bob Condon]

The only thing that drives the price is the condition of the boat and the buyer's desire
to buy a boat. I have seen 1990s that I would not give a $1 for and seen early 1980s that are worth $6K.
I have heard from owners say that the only thing out there are buyers who
want the boat for free; I recommend the owners to understand the market and
sell accordingly... If you do not sell for months on end, then the price is unrealistic.

Why did yo NOT buy the newer nicer boats in this price range? is the 5K price range a barrier that you will not cross?

The battery, and Nav lights + wire will cost you $300 if you do the work yourself.

[Greene]

No, I don't expect to get the boat for free.  I expect to pay a fair price for a decent boat.  Unfortunately in my world I can't just spend whatever my little heart desires.  I set a rough maximum of $5k for the 19 and that is why I didn't buy the nicer boats.  It isn't that I felt they were overpriced, I'm just underfunded.  I only get to buy one of these sailboats in my life and I want to take my time to get the one that speaks to me.

The 19 in MO has the wiring harness, they just never installed a deep-cycle battery.

Mike