Homemade Jib Furlers

[curtisv]

Kickingbug,

Thanks Buddy!   I am having second thoughts about posting this project.  I posted it because I thought other like minded people would find it interesting.  If by posting it I am misleading someone into doing something unsafe then I should remove it and just build it privately.

Mike

Don't take things wrong.  Its an interesting project and other before you have don't similar furlers and used them safely.

It won't work for everyone.  AFAIK there are only a few people that sail a small CP as a light coastal cruiser or somewhere like Lake Michigan where this would be a problem so its of interest to the majority of CP sailors.

BTW- CapnK used to be one of the Com-pac light coast cruising sailors on his CP23D Liquid Epifany (did I spell that right?).

Curtis

[jkat]

I've got a pvc furler on my MFG Sidewinder 16, and it works fine.  Beginning to wish I had one on this compac.

Until I got my CP16 I had an MFG Sidewinder with a roller furler.  Simple PVC setup.  Worked flawlessly.  On the sidewinder, there was a pocket sewed along the leading edge of the jib and it slid right over the PVC foil on the furler.  It was then attached by two simple pipe/hose type clamps (one on the top, and one on the bottom) that would be tightened by a screwdriver.  That was it.  The boat weighs less than 1/5 of a CP16 but I still put it through it's paces without an issue.  I'd even routinely use it to reef the jib partway without issue. 

I'm looking at setting up an inexpensive PVC or similar system, but am still perplexed at how to attach my jib to the foil (spar) above the furling drum.  Any advice about drawbacks to keeping or removing the hanks when attaching the jib.  I'd like to avoid permanently altering the jib.  Do some of the mentioned methods in this discussions have drawbacks that anyone is aware of.  I tend to picture that leaving on the hanks could create points of friction on the furled sail and wear holes or something like that.

Another idea I pictured was that I might remove the hanks, cut holes in the PVC where the grommets are and then attach the headsail to the forestay with heavy duty zip ties .  Any other ideas?

Jkat

[Greene]

jkat,
Just about all the methods you mention have been tried and the owners generally seem satisfied with the results.  I don't think I would use any of the methods if I had a new (or newer) sail.  Since I have an older 155 genoa I don't have any issues with altering the sail, but I am concerned about the potential of wear. 

Leave hanks on and attach through slots in PVC - Seems like the simpliest method and the easiest to reverse if you decide you don't like it.  The hanks would create a bulge and a wear spot.

Remove the hanks and tie strap through the PVC -  Still pretty easy to reverse.  Should create less of a wear spot.

Remove the hanks and whip the sail around the PVC -  One guy showed this method of using light line to wrap around the PVC and through the hole left from the removed hank.  After looping the line around several times he cinched the loops with several wraps of the line.  It looked like it would work really well and the appearance should be pretty good.

Remove the hanks and cut a boltrope slot in the PVC - Kickingbug showed me how to do this.  It looks like a really effective method.  One advantage to this method over the others is that it allows the halyard to stretch the luff without creating scalloping  (for lack of a better word) between each of the non-moving connection points in the other systems.

I am sure there are other methods, but these seem to be the most popular.
I hope this helps.
Mike

[Salty19]

Greene,  I used a new genoa w/o hanks and had the luff cut 12" shorter than standard to accomodate the drum.  Otherwise there may not be enough room on the forestay to accomodate everything (measure that).    It worked out realy well being able to see under the sail. 

If you do remove the hanks and want to put back on later..that is not a big deal.  They are cheap.

As I mentioned I used tie wraps (two at each grommet) and use Amsteel blue line knotted on the interior of the PVC and tied around the sail grommet.  That way there is no slippage when furling to keep the luff straight.  And with three very strong tied per grommet, the sail is not going anywhere. 

Sailed it hard enough on several occasions to bury the rail and take water over the coaming.  Of course that woulnd't have happened without a foiled rudder.

I also like kicknbug's design.  My only concern is chafing the bolt rope area with the sharp PVC edge. I suppose some tough chafe tape or vinyl could be used here.   

Definitely don't hesitate to post up your experiments. That's what this forum is all about.  If you're nervous...put a disclaimer on it  (Use at yor own risk, you are responsible, etc).

[Greene]

Salty19,

Thanks for the input.  I planned on pulling the genoa out this weekend to measure the luff.  Also, I purchased some 1/4" ID PEX tube to slide over the stay and act as an chafe guard for the PVC foil and any lines, tie straps, rope etc. I end up using. 

A couple of questions;
1. You mentioned in your earlier reply to tension the head of the sail. Do you leave your halyard attached with a swivel?  Or do you simply tension the head with a line to the foil?
2. Does adding the couplings to the mounting points add strength or do they create a weaker area?  I think with a long enough piece of Amsteel I could feed it into a small hole and then push it out the far end of the tube to tie a knot.  Once the knot is tied the long end could be pulled back out to get the knot back down to the hole.  Cut off the excess and start on the next hole.  This would eliminate the couplings to improve the look, but I am not sure about the strength.
I'm busy working on my boat kitty for the 19 footer.  For some strange reason the Admiral thinks four boats at one time is too many. Totally unreasonable! Sold my 84 Mazda RX-7 project car, so next I have to look at reducing the powerboat fleet.  It sure will be hard to put Puppy Luff up for sale, but it will have to go before I purchase the 19. 
Mike

[Salty19]

Heya Greene,

Answer to the first question:  Salty Parrot used both.  Used halyard at the top o' sail and Amsteel line at the base of sail, routed through a "through hole" in the PVC, just above the drum,  to stretch sail during use. Then let tension go on the halyard for mooring/trailering.  

Second question: I honestly do not know which design is stronger...one would think a solid piece is the best.  I used the adapters/couplers/whatever you call them mainly for ease of running the line through to secure the sail, and to allow use of shorter lengths of PVC.  I have to admit, I'm a little confused with the line routing you are describing. Must be the yummy Leininkugles...being from WI I'm sure you're familiar with them!

[Greene]

" I have to admit, I'm a little confused with the line routing you are describing. Must be the yummy Leininkugles...being from WI I'm sure you're familiar with them!"

I have only one superpower to wield.  Unfortunately it is the amazing ability to befuddle, confuse, disorient and bewilder everyone with my written explanations.  If I described how to make a brandy old-fashion sweet to someone they would end up making chocolate milk.  

No Lienies for me please, just show me the way to a sweet red wine or a little Drambuie.  I drink beer about twice a year and I can usually remember one of them.

Thanks for the info.  50+ degrees all next week here. SWEET!
Mike

[kickingbug1]

    mike, with my furler set up, i made the foil out of 1" scedule 40 pvc (one piece no gluing) it is attached to a aluminum drum which fits over the turnbuckle. the hanks are removed from the sail and the boltrope is slid into a groove cut into the pvc. a smaller pvc tube is slid into the larger pvc and pushed up as the sail is pulled into the groove. the sail is stretched and clamped top and bottom. the forestay is slid through the smaller pvc pipe and the turnbuckle reattached. this design is much stronger than those that utilize the hanks. ill send you pics if you want     

[Greene]

kickingbug,

Thanks, I saved the e-mail photos you sent me a while back.  The 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe you describe was shown as 3/4" PVC in the pic.  I'm guessing you were referring to the O.D. being 1".  I took another look at one of your photos and now I can see that the halyard wasn't used.  Just pre-stretch and attach to the PVC.  

Did you have to change the sail size to allow for the furler height?  I need to measure my 155 genoa and stay length tonight to see if there is room to install the furler without shortening the sail.  (Note:  Measured later and found 155 luff at about 12' and the stay length from the top of the turnbuckle to the fitting at the mast is 13')

[kickingbug1]

 i also made one for my 135 and it works great too. the turnbuckle fits into the spool keeping the sail low although you can still see under it.

[kickingbug1]

 and youre right it was 1"od and 3/4 id

[Greene]

i also made one for my 135 and it works great too. the turnbuckle fits into the spool keeping the sail low although you can still see under it.

Well as long as you have two you could just give me one and I can forget all this nonsense!

Mike

[kickingbug1]

    you will have it

[Greene]

    you will have it

You know I am just kidding right?  I can't go through all this fun and not end up with something I build on my own. 

Mike

[Bob23]

Mike:
   If you're bored, I can drop off my 1984 Honda Accord! Always something to fix!
Bob23