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Another new owner

Started by cdreamIII, January 16, 2010, 10:17:34 AM

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brackish

Quote from: skip on January 21, 2010, 01:21:16 PM
brackish, Gaps? We don't leave no stink'n gaps!

If I can push my little fat finger between the 'tube' and the frame we'll consider that to be a good fit.



ROTFLOL, Yep, you're that guy. 

Wire very slow to make it into the offshore platform construction.  Most oil company customers wrote it out of the specs, particularly for piping and pressure vessels.  A lot of it was done outside, and the customers were afraid that the shield gas would blow away creating porosity, a valid concern.  Consequently it was SAW (submerged arc) wherever we could and SMAW (stick) with rods from the rod oven when we couldn't.  That steel didn't move as easily as the aluminum but with bigger dogs, wedges, jacks and hammers, anything was possible.....

I did enjoy it.  Most days you could step back at the end of the day and see what you had accomplished.  Later on, in management, that often became difficult.

cdreamIII


Today was a beautiful day up here (40 deg & sunny) for Jan and I was able to get a few pictures of both the bildge and waste plumbing set-up.  I have already removed  and disposed of the waste tank but you can see the impression in the sound insulation of where it was mounted.  To the right is the thru hull for the head sink drain.  The  waste thru hull is on the bottom with the raw water intake for the head just to the left of that.  At the top is the "Y" valve which is "frozen" in one position.  It almost looks like someone put some epoxy in it to keep it from being able to shift it.   The waste thru hull valve had electrical tape wrapped around the handle to keep it from turning with no hose connecting it to the y valve.

I brought a box that I made up to represent a 15 gal tank.  It was approx 14 x 17 x 20 and turned out to be about as big as I would go if I were to mount it where the original tank was.  Anything bigger and the plumbing gets really tight.  One other size limiting note....the tank has to have one side small enough to fit thru the narrow side locker hatch which is approx 14 1/2".



Here are 2 pictures of my bildge, one looking forward & one looking aft showing the electric blidge pump behind a board that is calked in place.  I pulled the intake for the manual pump out of the way (normally it is just behind the elec pump) to get a better view of the bildge.



This  one shows the forward section of the bildge.  The fiberglass has "pulled" away the base and flexes when pushed.  There are also acouple of small holes in it which would allow bildge water to get under it.



Bille

Bille

Craig Weis

#17
Cool! Pictures of her innards. First let me say. I have a Portapotty. This is why I have a Hills Brother Coffee can on a bridle and light line...all purpose can. Off load fluids, shock absorber at dock side or anchor, brings on water to wash the decks and dog house, and de-soaps as well.

The old waste water tank imprinted in the sound deadening and a replacement tank sized
14" x 17" x 20" = 4,760 cu in divided by [12" x 12" x 12"] = 1,728 cu in = 2.75 cu ft so
2.75 cu ft x 7.48 gal/cu ft = 20.6 gallon tank weighing...20.6 x 8.33 lb / gallon = 171.6 lb when full.

I don't know this Com-Pac well enough so let me ask is there a plywood bulkhead between the birth and the storage compartment under the settees? My CP-19 is wide open and that makes for a handy means of egress of stale 'closet' air. And ventilation at night sitting on the hook with the settees [held open by springs] open and allowing for a breeze. Ah heaven! Right?

Anyway, that pesky old "Y" ball valve? Put some heat to it and some KROIL penetrating oil down the tube and work it. Hard.
Might have to soak a few days. Put the hurt to it.
Put a hose or cap on that valve coming up from the bottom. What is that?

Just a minute my computer is shutting down. OK now the SOB has restarted...I don't know why it does this.

cdreamIII  Writes "Here are 2 pictures of my bilge, one looking forward & one looking aft showing the electric bilge pump behind a board that is caulked in place."

It's good that the grey paint in removed so that doesn't get sucked up into the pump. I would not worry about the small holes allowing some water to 'get' on top of the poured cement keel weight. So what? How much water goes down there? A quart a summer?
To seal it up mix up some very thin West System Epoxy and pour that over the entire bilge top. Let it soak in.

I plugged my electric pump discharge tube into my hand pump discharge tube using a spliced in "T" fitting down stream of the hand pump. That way the electric uses the same 'dump' out the scupper in the transom. And won't syphon back into anything. No new holes.

P.S. See all that wiring from the other skipper just helter skelter laying all about? I'd take a few rolls of PVC electric tape or shrink tubing and an afternoon and tidy that rats nest up a bit. Just looks nicer. Make you happier, when you get around to it later. N.B.D.

skip.

bmiller

#18
Bille,
Just a couple quick thoughts as we are leaving soon, will comment further when we get back from the USVI's.

Your pump is not in the lowest part of the bilge. If it were mine I'd move it. And the bilge should be corrected IMHO. Allowing water to leak down between the concrete and the fiberglass can't be good. Imagine what freeze thaw could do in a few years. It aint easy but doable.

As far as the sanitation is concerned you have a blank slate. All the important parts are there, mainly the thru hulls. You just need to decide which system you want to use. This link shows the different possibilities, http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/Heads-Holding-Tanks.htm
Scrap that Y valve, their comparitively cheap. Is the intake dedicated to the head or does it provide raw water to the engine? Just curious.
Here are a couple shots of mine during the install, the final is cleaner but basically plumbed the same. All the freash water lines have been replaced and rerouted.



Note the bottom line, it goes directly into the top of holding tank. The line into the bottom of the Y comes from the bottom of the tank. Right top of the Y goes into the top of the macerator, left top of the Y goes to deck pump out. The small line coming out of the macerator goes to the waste thru hull, a bushing takes care of that.
Hope this helps a little, I'll try to check in if we find wifi.

Bill