Adding brakes to trailer ?

[CaptRon28]

Glenn -

It may not be that bad. Describe the boat and trailer. For the trailer - How many axles, wheel size, general shape, gvw rating. What does the boat actually weigh?

As I recall, you mentioned that it does not currently have brakes. What are the hubs bolted to? If there is a square bracket (maybe 5 or 6 inches square) with 4 holes welded to the end of the axle, that will accept either the drum backing plate or the caliper mounting bracket, depending on what you buy. Note that discs do not really cost that much more than drums, so your choice is not that difficult.

Depending on the size of the wheels you would have to buy either 9.9 (13 inch wheels) or 12 inch (14 inch wheels) rotors and the matching calipers. You can get these for around $90 to $100 apiece per kit. The actuator would run between $100 to $220 or so, depending on the weight of the trailer and boat. Add another $50 for the backup solenoid and maybe another $60 for the stainless tubing and fittings. Assuming you can do it yourself (or with help from a friend), the cost would be around $400 for a single axle and perhaps $550 to $600 for tandem.

You can shop around, especially on the internet, to find the best prices. I went with TieDown Engineering brakes, actuator and solenoid. Good quality, reasonable price. The vented rotors are coated and the calipers are aluminum. At that time, and based on current pricing,  I wound up buying the 4 disc brake kits from Trailer Parts Superstore and the tubing, actuator, solenoid and hardware from Champion Trailers.

If the axles do not have the mounting plate, that could change everything. But - your hubs must be bolted to something, right?

One other note. Depending on what kind of truck you're pulling with, you may have to hook up a wire from one of the backup lights to the trailer hitch - using a 5 pin plug rather than a 4 pin.

Ron M
Telstar 28
looking to buy a Horizon

[nies]

Glenn, remember a sign in a auto repair shop "Shop hourly rate $25.00/hr., if you worked on it $40.00/hr." Sometimes its cheaper, faster and a better job if you can find someone who business it is to fix and modify trailers..........Phil

[kchunk]

Not necessarily, Phil. Granted, as a mechanic, I'm rather mechanically inclined   However, if Glenn or anyone for that matter, takes on this relatively easy job, he or she can claim rights to a Ph.D. of trailerology, specializing in boat trailers. Yes, a trailer doctor, with all the right, duties, powers and privileges contained within. Basically, anything that happens to that trailer from that point forward you'll be easily qualified to repair it yourself. In other words, just a little more self reliant.

--Greg

[Glenn Basore]

Greg,

From what I recall from repacking my bearings, the only thing I recal is where the hub mounted to a backing plate. or is this what your talking about  "Flange" ? or are you talking about the back plate like on "drum" brakes ?

In my case its a 5 lug pattern 4 1/2" on center.

Thanks for all the links to look at, what I thought was going to be easy (physically and cost effective) as certainly open my eyes to other possibilities like changing the axle, moving the axle, stiffer springs ect.

All most too much information to digest at one time !

I will review all information given by all.

Thanks.

Glenn B.

[Glenn Basore]

Phil,

You have some pretty low shop hourly rates, here in town my local mechanic shop hour is $85.00

Glenn B.

[kchunk]

It may seem confusing but it's really simple...don't be intimidated.

Here's a picture of an axle, with a spindle and a brake flange:



The flange is the square plate with the four holes and is standard size. The brake caliper bracket will bolt to it like was born there.

Usually the axle, spindle and flange are welded into an assembly and sold like that. If you look at the axle link I included in the earlier post, you can see the flange on the axle.

If your wheels are a 5 on 4.5 lug pattern that just makes things that much easier.

--Greg

[Glenn Basore]

Greg,

I think I have this "flange plate" I will look at it when I get a chance this Saturday.

Also, I have a 2 inch ball, my new fenders have about 3" clearance from the underside of the fenders to the top of the wheel. 14 inch wheels.

I don't think I want to go with a drop axle, the new tires  only seemed to raise my boat an inch or 2, but that is not a problem here in California as all the ramps I use are nice and steep.

The only problem I have is low tide and I have to back in over the slippery stuff, that's why I wanted the extension on the tongue. a loop in the line would be perfect in my case.

Greg, and others, here is my email addresses.

glenn.basore@medtronic.com

Greg, I would like to e-mail you but not sure how to do it from here, would you mind contacting my above e-mail.

Glenn B.

[nies]

Glenn, should have stated that it was a long time ago that I saw the sign......Phil

[David V.]

Glenn,

I'm not sure if it is a Performance trailer, it's wrapped for winter, but it flexes like a fishing rod. This thing makes me nervous. But you know, it has been going for 19 almost 20 years and has made some long trips over some tough roads ( I know because I did the driving ) and so far no broken welds or bolts. The trailer you have is stiffer and better built than the one I am using, as the laws governing the construction of trailers have changed and have forced companies to do a better job with them, so I believe your trailer should be sound even if it flexes. Sometimes flexing isn't a bad thing, just watch a loaded flatbed trailer on the highway, or for that matter a suspension bridge and you will see them move.

I think you have some good links and it may seem a lot, but when you go through it all, I am sure you will find it is not too bad a job and you can do it in the price range you are looking for.

Good Luck,
David

[kchunk]

Glenn, I sent you an email.

You can get member's email by clicking on their name to the left here...

<--------

It will open a screen with their profile and their email (if they've made it available).

--Greg

[nies]

Gleen, I am completely lost, you will have to explain to me how the trailer flexes,.....have trailered for eons and never saw or heard of a small boat trailer flexing.....if you mean the trailer not following straight, had that problem until I moved the boat forward for more weight on the ball,.......is flexing up and down is what you mean , I can not believe you have not cracked a weld......just wondering........Phil

[Glenn Basore]

Phil,

I have no problem towing. It just seems to twist, flex or spring like action a bit while going down our rough roads here in California. May be I'm just used to other trailers (car trailer and other boat trailers) that I have owned being very ridged.

I notice some flexing of the trailer when backing into my drive way as well, it appears the whole trailer frame twist / flex while backing up the driveway at the curb area.

The back of my tow veh is in the street and the trailer is in a bit higher postion on the drive way until I get the tow veh on the driveway as well.

I would think the trailer frame would be stiff enough that it would not flex , twist or bounce at all.

I have not found any damage to the trailer.

The trailer side frame are "L" and not a "box" frame as I would like.

[nies]

Glenn, wow..........I probably worry to much in my senior years, but the whole trailer flexing would cause me to think about trading  trailers at some point......I believe you said it has been this way for years of towing, so maybe on my part,  its much to do about nothing............Phil

[CaptRon28]

Just about any two dimensional frame will flex, and that includes cars, trucks, boats, and trailers. One of the reasons why they weld multipoint roll cages onto race cars is to make it 3 dimensional which is much more rigid. Trailer frames are long box or L shaped beams with several cross beams bolted or welded on. Make it long enough with a fairly heavy boat on it and it will definitely flex and/or twist. It's reasonably safe as long as it's not overloaded, the metal is in decent shape and the flexing is not severe. 

The companies that make the really heavy duty semi trailers get around this by putting a slight bend in the frame so that it's nearly straight when the very heavy loads are present. Take a look at just about every flatbed semi around - they are not really that flat.

[Glenn Basore]

Ron,

I described my frame sides as an "L" shape when in fact it's a "U" shape on end.
I have seen trailers as you have described with the pre bend shape and understand the engineering behind it.

I just think Performance Trailer made a cheap trailer and put it under my boat.

Glenn B.