Trailer Modifications to Performance Trailer for C-P 19.

[Craig Weis]

Getting ready to pull the boat out and did a few things to the Com-Pac 19 Performance trailer that was factory fitted with an extended tongue. First pulled her out of the weeds.

The keel bunks are gone! Both of them. I hack sawed them off flush with the 'C' channel. Don't need them.
The majority of the 2000 pounds sits on any two of the four rubber rollers.
Slack off at the winch and she sits on the back two rollers. Barley touching the vee block.
Tighten up the winch and she'll tipsy toe on the two forward rollers and snug into the vee block.
When set for the winter slack off the winch pressure. Don't need to pull on that eye all winter.
The arch created by the hull bunks allows the boat to settle right down into a nice snug fit.
But you have to float and winch the boat onto the trailer.
I have two orange fiberglass driveway markers that just touch the hull when she floating correctly over the trailer.
All centered up.
I pull her out and she rests properly on the trailer rollers and hull bunks.
The boat can't slide forward nor backwards. Or jump off the trailer. I don't strap her down either to the trailer rings.
The keel weight can't snag or tear off the keel bunks because they are gone. Much easier to get on the trailer.
If I tip over on the road...then we'll have to pick her up I guess. I'm more worried about the mast rolling off.
Only a small amount of the 2000 pounds sits on the hull bunks and this keeps the hull from wanting to 'oil can'.
Not that it would oil can being a Com-Pac. And she'll sit on her keel without hull supports. I wouldn't do it.
I moved the winch assembly as far forward as possible.
And raised the vee block till it cleared the [daulphin] Bob Stay.
And put the jack behind the winch instead of in front of the winch like the factory had it for more tongue weight.
Still needed more tongue weight so moved the axle as far back as possible.
Loosened up the 8 nuts on the U-clamps and used a hydraulic bottle jack to push the rear axle as far back as possible.
An easy job when supported from jack stands and the hitch is on the truck.
Eveything hangs, axle and wheels. Slides nice. Measure for squareness and tighten up.
I wanted 6 inches back but because of some weldments I was only able to go back 2-1/4 inch. Anything helps.
Pumped up the 10 inch tubed-tires to 90 pounds as sidewall says. Galvanized rims always leak air. I do tubes.
Shot grease into the bearings and lubed up my 2 inch ball hitch mechanism.
Replaced the burned out bulb on the left rear. Only the low beam filament worked. High beam burned out.
Greased up the two spring sets and really worked the lube in between the leaves.
With weight and a few bumps they'll start to take the grease.
It is important once the boat is on the trailer where you want it to adjust the hull bunks for a nice uniform fit.
Each of the six bolts are loosened one at a time and the square steel arm is allowed to drop on to a floor jack.
Lower till day light appears then jacked back up till the hull bunk snugly but not forcibly touches the hull.
I use a tee shirt gauge. A touch down on the jack I can pull it out. Add a little jack pressure and it's locked down.
What you want is all the weight on the keel rollers or bunk board if that is used. Follow the hull curve.

Since the trailer was all weedy I dunked her into the pond at the boat ramp. A cheap cleanup.
I'm ready to see and feel if the boat goes down the road any better when trailed. Hope so.

skip.

[Salty19]

Thanks for the information, Skip.

I wish I had the extended tonque built in.  It's on the list!