Lowering Mast single handed

[Deb]

Howdy Y'all, Been having a great time!!!  But often I need to lower the mast myself and can't always count on a good bystander to help.  I've read all the posts throughout and haven't found the easiest way to lower her yet.  I can get her up fine by myself.  It's the lowering thats the problem to do alone.
Who's got the best system?  I've been looking online too.
Deb

[Steve Ullrich]

Hi Deb - Just lowered mine myself last Monday.  I bought a 1989 Com-Pac 16 just about a month ago.  I've been sailing for many years on larger keel boats that were virtually impossible to step a mast on alone so I was apprehensive about the 16.  I was actually pretty surprised at how easy it was to step and un-step alone.  I'm using my jib halyard both ways, I suspect pretty much everyone else is too.  My jib halyard is really a bit too long but that turned out to be a good thing.  I had it tied off to the fordeck horn cleat and running through a sheeve at the base of the mast to the horn cleat on the port coach roof.  I had one wrap around the horn.  Coming down I was able to ease the mast down pretty easily by just letting the halyard slide around the cleat a little at a time while guiding it down with my right hand.  I kept a load on the halyard until I had the mast well under control, which didn't take too long at all.  Got to tell you, I was delighted that it was as easy as I had hoped.  I'm near sixty now and having some problems with my shoulders.  Wasn't sure I could do it.  Now I'm sure I'm going to have a lot of fun on area lakes this summer whether or not I have a crew. 

[mikew]

Deb, I sail my cp-16 mostly singlehanded and had the same problem. I came up with a "helper" that solved two problems. It is a 39" piece of 2x4 wood that attaches with two bolts through the top alum. rudder piece. I drilled two holes in the upper rudder piece that matches up with two bolts in the 2x4 piece. I used carriage bolts captured in the wood and wing nuts to hold it on. The upper part of the board has a square U shape made with wood pieces to capture the mast. When trailering, my two side shrouds are always attached to the chain plates and just tied back. 
OK 1. At the ramp I attach my "helper board" to the rudder. Tiller is secured so it stays in the middle position. 2. Run jib halyard to jib front deck fitting and secure. 3.  Get in boat and attach mast to mast step with bolt. Long side of mast is now at angle sitting on "helper board". I make sure side shrouds are clear and attached, 4. Walk mast to vertical position and cleat jib halyard to mast, firmly. ( this holds mast temporary until forestay is secured)  5. Jump out of boat and attach forestay ( previously adjusted) with lower pin and lock ring. Mast is up NO HELPERS ! (Instead of bolts two C- clamps could be used to hold the board to the rudder. )  REVERSE FOR LOWERING.
I also use this "helper board" in a lower position ( with two more bolts in wood only, same holes in rudder ) to hold rear part of mast when trailering , just clearing comp. hatch and resting on bow pulpit. All held down with shock chords.
Mike         

[Deb]

Thanks fellas, I'm trying to picture exactly what you're explaining....
Seems a big part of my problem is the mast wanting to go sideways and too fast for me to control.
I'm working on it.......
Deb

[mikew]

Deb, To drop the mast, if you set up the jib halyard first, one end attached to the forestay fitting, (through
the top mast pulley) other end to mast cleat- (tied firm) , then release the forestay deck turnbuckle pin.  (Carefull- mast is now supported up front by tight jib halyard ) and side shrouds . Now get back in the boat- support mast and release jib halyard on mast cleat , KEEPING TENSION on line ,slowly drop mast and let it pivot backwards on mast step bolt, into wood crutch I described earlier. Then you can remove mast step bolt and secure mast for trailering. Yes, as you lower mast and side shrouds slacken you lose
side mast support, use caution here.
Mike

[Deb]

Hi Mike, Thanks...I can almost do that, but I don't have a mast cleat.  My mast is new and yes, I need two put on and am trying to figure out how to get that done.  Even when I had the other mast and it had cleats It was really hard for me to drop her that way.  I'm only 5' 1" and although I'm strong the old bod is most tired after a day in the sun and wind.  I'm seriously considering a small winch somehow.
One thing I did when I got the new mast was have Hutchins put on a Mastender system to replace the shackle  on the forestay.  What an incredible improvement. That used to be a tough step and now it's a piece of cake.  I wanted to be able to control the jib and main halyards without going up front so I have t cleats on the cabin roof aft and they are great except I'm going to change them to clam cleats and get the clam cleats put back on the mast somehow.  Thanks for the help and I'll keep trying.......Deb

[Deb]

Hi I just wanted to clarify what I stated in my last post.  When I added the Mastender part what I meant was only the forestay self locking lever.  You can see it on Hutchins web site.  What a great improvement this is!
Deb

[Steve Ullrich]

Hi Deb,

Where did you purchase the forestay locking lever? Directly from Hutchins?

thanks,

[Deb]

in person at Hutchins.

[mrb]

Hello Deb

First let me welcome you to site as I don't remembering doing that.  Welcome

About your problem of lowering mast, As I read your post stating you have main and jib halyards led to cleats on cabin top.  My question is do you have turning blocks at base of mast with halyards running down mast do deck level then turning back to cleats.


On an aside note about installing a cleat on mast.  If you use self drilling and tapping metal screw the job will become much more easy.  

melvin

[Deb]

Hi Melvin, Thanks for the welcome. I have a block on the mast almost to the bottom, maybe a ft up or so.  Then the halyards just go back to the horn cleats.  Today I'm trying to change the horn cleats to clam cleats but the buttons on the tips of the screws won't come off and I'm afraid to put too much force on them. Is there a trick to getting them off?  They are the same type as around the windows.  Deb

[sun17cat]

Flying Scott has a mast system available that is a bi-pod and is used with the jib halyard and fore stay. The best part though is the method of attaching a line to the mast that then runs to and attachment point on each side of the beam to keep the mast from falling off to the side when the shrouds get loose. I made mine but did order a couple of parts from the folks who make it. You can see it in action: http://www.sailingtexas.com/Movies/FlyingScotMast/mastsystem.html

[Deb]

Hi Sun, That's a really neat system. I like how it controls the side ways motion. Got my thniknig cap on.
Thanks

[mrb]

Hi Deb

I was at my boat today, wish I had looked at ports to see what screws  look like,  however I am thinking those may be rivets instead of screws.  If they are rivets the must be filled or cut off.  Don't do any cutting though until sure.  I will make a point of checking when I go again, probably tomorrow, meanwhile maybe someone with boat at home will respond.
On lowering mast, I hook my jib halyard to pulpit, tighten it up and take wrap on cleat.  Then I unhook fore stay, move back to stand in companyonway and slack of jib hailyard with one hand and hold other hand up to brace mast when it lowers.   Now I know you are not tall enough to stand on cabin floor catch the mast.  Have you tried standing in cockpit and catching mast as you ease off on halyard.   This is one area where I find the horn cleat better than the cam cleat, with the horn cleat you can take a half or one wrap and ease off a load where with the cam cleat once you free the line you have to take the whole load.   
If you still feel you don't have the strength to hold the mast  check out        www.tropicalboating.com   go to bottom of page and hit on "sailing"  then scroll down to" perfect solo mast-raising"         I have something like the device shown where the rudder hangs.  Mine is not telescoping and I only use it for mast cradle when trailering but have often thought of using one as shown if I ever get a heavier mast that I could not pick up easily.
Hope I have not muddied the water.
Melvin

[mrb]

Checked port trim fastenings today and you are right, they are screws.  Now don't know what to say about the screws fastening your cleats.

Good luck on fixes.

Melvin