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Solar mounting

Started by Shawn, March 04, 2009, 10:51:50 PM

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Shawn

I am going to be adding a 40w solar panel to my 23/3.

My current plan was to mount it on the companionway hatch following the example here:

http://www.geocities.com/jvandrey/trailersubweb/trailer_photographs.html#solar

Anyone else try this and if so how did it work out? Any gotchas to watch for or alternate mounting locations for the panel?

Thanks,

Shawn

kchunk

Hi Shawn. I struggled for quite a while with how I was going to charge batteries while away from shore power. IMO, the biggest drawback to solar was giving up the real estate on the top of the boat. Believe it or not, I went for a little Honda 1000W suitcase generator. It's small, surprisingly quiet, sips gas and is not tied to the boat so I can use it for other things too.

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail&section=P2GG&modelname=EU1000I&modelid=EU1000IAN

They sell new for about $750 and used for about $500. I found mine used, so I figure as long as it's running and in decent shape it'll always be worth close to what I paid for it...it's a Honda  :)

Now, if you're looking for a charger to maintain your batteries on a mooring or while the boat is not being used, solar is definitely the way to go. But to be honest, now that we have the generator along, I don't care what the kids are running or how much electricity they're using. I just plug the charger in if I need it.

BTW...I can get about 2 days and nights living on the boat with charging

--Greg

Bob23

Shawn:
   I mounted a much smaller panel on the forward hatch of my 23. I don't use much electricity on my boat and this panel has kept the battery topped off. It's out of the way forward of the mast and I've experience no problems. There might be a photo of it in the gallery.
  The panel on the link you provided is a bit larger than mine but if might fit on the forward hatch. (Nice installation, by the way.) Seems like on the cabintop hatch you might have a bit more of a shadow from the furled mainsail than on the forward hatch.
  Can you make a bracket to mount on the stanchions?
  I like the small Honda generators too, Greg and have been looking for an excuse to buy one.
Bob23...hope this helps.

Shawn

Hi Greg,

Thanks, I had considered the generator but decided to go with solar since it is one less thing to have to think about. It will just automatically charge the batteries as needed, no user intervention required. I am on a waiting list for a mooring so I wouldn't always have access to shore power.

Shawn

Shawn

Hi Bob,

Your mounting location looks good. Ever have any problems catching a jib sheet on the panel or anything like that?

I think the panel I have may be too big for the front hatch but haven't measured that yet. Also my hatch is transparent so I'd block all the light if I put the panel up there.

I have been considering mounting on a stanchion but I think the panel is a little to square to blend in decently. I might not really have a good place to mount that where it would be out of the way but I will check into that more too.

One potential problem with mounting the panel on the companionway hatch is the mast may hit it while bolted into the step with the mast sitting on the rear stanchions. I am going to build a roller mast crutch for the back of the boat to make sure that isn't a problem. Probably the whole gin pole system as outlined here:

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=2044.0

That should make stepping the mast really easy.

Thanks,

Shawn

newt

I too am looking to update my solar charging. I currently have a small (10W) panel on the back, but it does not keep up, even when just day sailing. I will probably put one on the cabin hood as mentioned earlier in this thread. I also have a Honda generator as backup.  In the Great Salt Lake you just can't have too many backups!

Mundaysj

I have been thinking about getting the Sunsei SE500 (7.55 watts).  I don't use much electricity on Blond Ambition and I think the trickle effect would be sufficient to keep the battery powered up.  They have a grip that you can mount it on the back rail.  I would rather have it rail mounted as I have my hatch open quite often for ventilation.  Does anyone have experience with anything other than hatch mounted?

Shawn

If you are thinking of around a 10w panel check out this package:

http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/solar_panels/Solar%2010W%20Batt%20Chrg.html

I bought my 40w panel along with a few other things from that company. I was considering the 10w package but wanted more wattage to be able to recharge the battery. The mount is for a 1" rail so you would need an adapter for a 7/8" rail. Magma Products makes one for the grill mounts that would probably work fine.

Shawn

romei

#8
I'm going to be installing electrics in my CP16 this spring/summer.  I'm going with the "Go Power GPDL " line.  They are "step on" panels, which means you can mount them directly to the deck or a seating area and walk on them, sit on them etc...  They are very thin, flat and durable.  Since there isn't much room on the CP16, I'm going to mount mine on the rear storage lid just under the tiller.

http://www.findportablesolarpower.com/store/products/solar-car-battery-charger/gopower-6.htm

Blog Site: http://www.ronmeinsler.com/cantina

"Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit."
-Brooks Atkinson

Craig Weis

#9
Me and Comfort & Joy share a dock I built with Captain Rank with his CP-19, Wind Rover and our Mayor Tom. And Tom placed this style of flexible-flat solar panel directly onto his cabin roof on a Solereign Sailboat, Whistling Swan. Next weekend on a fine Friday afternoon very disturbing bubbles were found under neath this solar panel.
The Sovereign has a cabin construction of fiberglass over a balsa-on-edge core.
The sun shine heat retained under the solar matt bubbled up the fiberglass from it flimsy bond to the core.
But with a little rolling pin action the bubbles subsided, but did not reattach. The bubbles were NOT pin-holed to let the pressurized air escape.
So beware of too much heat.
Now having given this warning we may be OK with a Com-Pac sailboat as Com-Pac DO NOT have a core but are hand lay-up'ed with a epoxy impregnated matt fiberglass of ? oz per sqft.

Second caution when using a glass/rigid solar panel...mount it so some air circulates under the solar panel. Air under maximizes the Milliamps produced. I mounted mine on cane tips using #10 ss screws with four holes drilled through my black plastic forward hatch cover. See skip's pics.
This panel makes, depending on the sun's intensity about 11 to 18 volts dc with about 300 milamps. Not quite enough to keep the 1000 cold cranking amp battery topped up on a three day cruise with the chartplotter used for maybe an hour a day during those three days on the water, and a night with a Davis anchor light, or night sailing [my personal favorite] LED navigation lights and inside cabin lights. Note that I do use an oil lamp mounted on the compression post for general cabin light and to preserve the battery amps. And I added that red LED lamp using an automotive led bulb from AutoZone. But I'd say I could run the ST-40 unit all the time [without the insturment light on. It has three levels of brightness] for the whole three days on the water. Good enough. I just use the chartplotter for a fix once or twice a day. I might add watts mean absolutely nothing without amps. And what are these guys selling? Watts. Superfluous!. OH! The above post; I too have let the fwd sheet slip under the solar panel. I guess I need a pin down to the desk at each cornor.
Ohms Law~dc or ac
Amps = Volts divided by Ohms
Ohms = Volts divided by Amps
Volts =  Amps x Ohms
Amps= Watts divided by volts
skip.

romei

Very good information Skip.  My plan is to build a new lid out of wood and mount it on that, but with your insight, I'll build it now with some air flow between the wood and the underside of the panel. 

Thanks!
Blog Site: http://www.ronmeinsler.com/cantina

"Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit."
-Brooks Atkinson

Craig Weis

romei!! You dog you. Bless you I'm going to have to look~see into the blog. skip.

Shawn

"I might add watts mean absolutely nothing without amps. And what are these guys selling? Watts. Superfluous!."

Watts are the measure of power.

More Ohms law...

amps = watts/volts

So if the panel is 40w at 18v we know it is putting out 2.22 amps.

Shawn

Bob23

Shawn:
   Sorry for the late reply...yes I have on occasion caught the jib sheets on the edge of the panel- I like to keep things interesting!
Bob23