Trailer disc brake refit on a Performance trailer

[kchunk]

Wind has been blowin' like the dickens lately and for some reason, instead of sailing, I called the marina and had them pull my trailer from storage so I can get a little work done on it. Anyway, when I bought my CP23 back in February, I towed it 400 miles, straight to the marina, splashed the boat and promptly put the Performance trailer in storage. Our trip to the Keys this July is approaching quickly, and I really need to give this trailer a good "once over". When I towed from South Carolina I wasn't sure the brakes were working. Turns out, I was right. Opened the reservoir cap on the coupler and instead of brake fluid, I found nothing but rust! Pricing new brake systems, I decided to go with a complete refit to Kodiak disc brakes with a new Tiedown coupler. I priced the whole kit at about $455 for parts and I'll supply the labor. The kit I'm looking at is from championtrailers.com. The links for the brake kit and coupler are below:

http://www.championtrailers.com/catalog%20pdf/PAGE%2024%20KODIAK.pdf

http://www.championtrailers.com/catalog%20pdf/PAGE%2027%20DISC%20BRAKE%20COUPLERS.pdf

If anyone's done this, I'd appreciate some insight. Otherwise, stay tuned and I'll post some kind of tutorial for the next generation of Com-Pac'rs.

[Lost Lake]

I'd love to convert all my trailers to disc brakes, but never have. Let us know how much of a pain in the butt this is to do! The prices look low enough....

[kchunk]

My trailer has tandem axles but brakes only on one axle. Before I ordered the brake kit I needed to check the spindle size so I removed one of the hubs yesterday. The brake drum is integral to the hub, meaning in order to remove the drum you have to remove the axle nut. The drum and hub are one piece. Everything was rusted real bad but all the hardware came off easy enough with a pneumatic impact wrench and access was no problem at all. The spindle size is standard and the brake flange on the axle is a standard 4-bolt flange. I see the job being a piece of cake.

I'll take some pictures along the way. I'm sure any shade-tree mechanic with average skills can do it in an afternoon.

--Greg

[LConrad]

I guess I am not as ambitious as you.  I replaced the master cylinder and flushed the system.  Brakes seem to work good now.  I would like to know how to prevent the rust.  Mine was just like yours.

[B.Hart]

 hi Greg, The disk brake up grade is a great idea, as standard hydraulic and elect brakes don't like the water.I do trailer repair for a living (that is why I won't put my trailer in the salt water) and it should be a straight forward swap. The only thing you might have to change is the brake mounting plates to a disk style.  Good luck and let us know how it works out.   HAPPY TRAILERING   BILL

[kchunk]

Thanks Bill. I ordered the parts Monday. I ordered from easternmarine.com instead, saved a couple bucks on the same equipment. They should be here Monday and I plan doing the work either Wednesday or Thursday. Total parts and shipping was $444.59, pretty dern reasonable I me thinks.

When you say brake mounting plate are you talking about the 4-bolt flange on the axle? I think (I'm hoping) they're standard. I'll find out soon enough.

I wish I could keep my boat out of salt water too, but the air smells better, the winds blow better, the fish tastes better, the diving is better. Yeah, so my trailer leaves a shadow of rust where it sits...but it's worth it!

--Greg

[kchunk]

Well, the trailer brake disc refit was an abysmal failure !!!!

I made a valiant attempt, that's for sure. Taking pictures all the way, I was thinking I could put together a quick web page when I was through. Everything was moving along just swimmingly. New bearings were the right size. Brake flange on the axle lined up just right. Rotors look like they were born there! It was almost too easy.

Here's the stopper: The brake caliper hits the frame!!!!

The caliper mounts to a bracket included in the kit. The bracket bolts to the brake flange on the axle and fit perfectly. The bracket can go on one of four ways: Caliper at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. 3 or 9 o'clock would be ideal for no other reason than bleeding the brake, but either of the 4 positions would work if needed. Well, 12 o'clock position the caliper hits the frame. At 3 & 9 positions the caliper hits the leaf springs and with the caliper down at the bottom, 6 o'clock position, it hits the u-bolts securing the axle to the leaf springs. I was almost physically ill! I tried every which way I could think of, no amount of beer was going to make it fit.

I called both Kodiak (the manufacturer) and easternmarine.com (the retailer) looking for some help. No Joy...

So, unless anyone has any other ideas, it looks like my choices are: a) upgrade the axles to something at least an inch wider or even torsion axles; or b) pack up the new brakes, eat the shipping already spent to deliver them to me plus the shipping to return plus the possibility of a 50% restocking fee for the one brake assembly I molested, and switch back to drum brakes. Oy vey!

So to sum up, if you have a Performance trailer, Kodiak 10" disc brake refit kit WILL fit your axles, but MAY NOT fit your trailer frame/suspension.

The plan right now is to pack everything up and make it look as new a possible (I might be able to pull that off) and return to retailer and buy new drum brake assemblies and re-use my original drum/hub assemblies.

Please excuse me now, I have to spit!

[B.Hart]

 fun with trailers! one thing about trailers is that nothing is standard, every one does things there own thing when it comes to manufacturing. One option would be to widen the Axel a couple of inches so the caliper will clear. , that would also require you to move the spring seats on the Axel to line up. The next Idea is to Fab a new Axel to your specs, you already have the most expensive parts, all you need is a piece of pipe (or square tube) to match the original and new spindles, any thing else could be salvaged from the original. Wish I could help more.  BILL

[kchunk]

Thanks Bill. I was wondering about extending the axles. Maybe I'll make a few phone calls this week to see about modifying my current axles. I didn't think of THAT.

The biggest problem I'm having is justifying the expense. Over the next few years, I honestly see me using the trailer maybe five times. I could just barely justify the expense of the brakes, now we're talking about suspension, ugh...

It's so hard spending good money on things like brakes and tires because you NEVER see tangible benefits. The benefits are status quo, you don't get into an accident and everything stays the same. HOWEVER, don't spend the money and the consequences may soon be very tangible!

[B.Hart]

I agree that it's hard to spend on what you don't have to have, but when you do hit the road you won't be sorry. I upgraded my 16 trailer this winter to 12" tires and it has not left the garage since. This will change soon as the lake is calling.    HAPPY SAILING   BILL

[kchunk]

Update on the brake situation. I just returned from the welder's. I had him cut the axles and weld in a 2" section. I figure I was committed to the brake job. Sending the brakes back would cost me about as much as modifying the current axles.

So, the refit is ON and I should have a little more news (hopefully all good) tomorrow.

[B.Hart]

I knew a welder could save the day!   BILL

[kchunk]

The trailer is done! Actually, the trailer was done a couple weeks ago, just been too busy to post lately. Anyway, adding two inches to the axles was definitely the answer. The welder charged me $90. I suppose that's less than half the cost of replacing both axles so a wise investment IMO.

Here's a pic of the modified axles. He cut them in half and then welded two 12" pieces of 2" angle. I cleaned them up and sprayed cold galvanize on them (should last a few dips in salt water).




This is the drum brake assembly before removal. Completely fused with rust.





The brake assembly comes with almost everything you need. The rotor and hub are integral, caliper with pads, caliper bracket and a bag of hardware including new inner and outer bearings.





The spindles cleaned up real nice and were in pretty good condition for what I assume to be original 1991 equipment.




... the caliper bracket bolted to the brake flange on the spindle.




The rotor went right on just as if it was born there (no, I didn't forget the cotter pin   ).




The completed assembly, minus the brake lines.





The last two pictures you can see where the frame interfered with the caliper. The guy at Kodiak said the caliper needs about 1/4" to float side to side as the brakes wear. With the extra 2" length on the axle, there's now plenty of room for the calipers.

I forgot to take pictures of the lines and coupler, but they went on without a problem.

As rusty as a lot of the trailer hardware was, most of it came right off with an impact wrench. I only broke one u-bolt removing the axles and nothing had to be cut off. All in all, I'd say this is a doable job for the average shade tree mechanic, although I WAS starting to feel more like a trailer owner rather than a boat owner  .

Now I just hope to use it a few times before it all rusts away. Florida Keys just over a month away! Anyone gonna be in the Marathon area July 19th?

[B.Hart]

Looks great! You will appreciate them every time you step on the brakes.   HAPPY TRAILERING and KEYS SAILING     BILL

[B.Hart]

almost forgot, the photos in the post are great,good job   BILL