Mast Step Base

[Bewildered]

A couple of months ago I discovered that the L shaped mast support step was badly rusted. Also, the forward layer of plywood that was sandwiched to the aft layer that the step is bolted to was pulpy and beyond repair.  I was quite surprised that Com-Pac chose to use standard steel rather than stainless.  I gathered some suggestions on a repair course to take and decided on my own method to fix rather replace it.  I did go through a multi-step process involving rust removal, galvanizing the step and using Smith Clear Penetrating Epoxy and Smith Epoxy Filler to replace the damaged plywood. I also added an additional piece of half inch plywood--also treated with SCPE to reinforce and support the epoxy filler.  You can see it as the U shaped wood surrounding the mast step.  I may replace the step entirely if this repair proves inadequate. 

[alsantini]

If I may add something to the mix.  Early on in my life with my Eclipse, I found water in the port cabinet under the quarter berth after driving all day in heavy rain.  It was then that I found how the factory sealed the 2 sides of the mast.  The two collars that help hold the mast stub in place (one on the cabin top and one inside the cabin) both had substantial amount of sealant.  A heavy bead was completely surrounding the mast.  As I would step and un-step frequently this sealant would crack, especially the one on the cabin roof.  This allowed water to run down the mast and follow the voids between the two sides of the cabin roof and in my case run into the compartment.  A previous owner had sealed (epoxy) all the wood in the V berth compartment where the mast step lives.  He also put in a drain, of sorts, that allowed water to work its way out of the compartment and into the bilge.  Since there was a path for the water into the bilge, I removed all the caulk around the mast inside the cabin so water would not flow through the cabin roof.  I found that I had to re-caulk the mast stub under the collar about every other year.  The frequent stepping and un-stepping of the mast would eventually loosen the caulk and I would see a bit of water in the V berth compartment.  The drain hole was integral to keeping the compartment dry.   But I would check the compartment a few times a year.  Additionally, I had rust olem the metal angle iron early in the 10 years I owned the Eclipse.  When I would leave the boat in the marina, I would frequently open the compartment and let it dry out.  I believe that newer Eclipse boats had the drain factory installed.  My Eclipse was #49 and a 2007.  It looks like EVERY Com Pac owner needs to pay attention to the mast step.  I just looked at my Horizon set-up (2021) and it is just sitting on wood.  The wood is epoxied but still subject to rotting from water.  There is a drain but it is tiny and I think will plug up easily.  I know have it on my frequent check list. 
Your repair looks great and will no doubt last a long time but everyone needs to check their mast bast often.  Sail On  AL

[Bewildered]

Al,  Thanks for your very helpful reply.  My boat is #44 and does have what appears to be a factory built drain hole under the mast that leads to the bilge.  There also is a thick bead of caulk on the deck side of the mast base.  I appreciate that you mentioned another bead of caulk on the inside and will check for it.  Apparently, water still works its sneaky way down the mast onto the step by other means.  Your advice to check this frequently is wise and is certainly on my checklist as well.  It required several hours of effort and significant expense to repair the step and the plywood. While the Com-Pac deck is soundly built, potential structural problems could certainly result from a compromised mast step.  There appears to be plenty of good metal on the step and the plywood repair should hold up over time.  The Smith products I used are IMO better than similar WEST System stuff. The are pricy but yield excellent results. I hope you are enjoying your boat on the other side of Florida.   

[alsantini]

Only 5 boats in-between - cool.  To answer your question, I love the Horizon and for me it was a logical choice.  I needed to get rid of man-handling the outboard every time I sailed.  Even though the Eclipse was easy to step, the process is half on the Horizon.  More room in the cockpit and cabin sealed the deal.  From all I have read I have an unusual Horizon.  PO ordered the boat with the 2 cyl diesel and a tiller, which apparently was an unusual combination.  Not sure how many but I'll bet just a few.
Enjoy that Eclipse - one of the best sailing boats on the water.  I loved mine....  Sail On AL

[Bewildered]

Depending on how long I can singlehande the Eclipse, I may be moving on to a simpler to operate Com-Pac as well some day.  I'm not getting any younger or cuter but intend to sail as long as I am upright!  I infer from your description of your Horizon that some come with a diesel and wheel steering?  That would be in my mind ridiculous.  But, it is nice to have choices. Is yours a Cat or Day Cat?

[Syzygy]

My experience: I replaced my mast step with a piece of aluminum from McMaster-Carr P/N 8982K69 (Multipurpose 6061 Aluminum 90 Degree Angle with Round Edge, 3/8" Thickness, 4" High x 4" Wide Outside). I liked the idea of something that would not rot away like steel. Plus, there is no galvanic corrosion potential as the mast stub and its end cap are aluminum. A match made in heaven! I also replaced the mast stub as a previous owner had blown out the sail slot/track. Pretty easy job depending on your experience. Gerry at Hutchins sold me the mast section I needed. So sad that option is no more.. (Note that I had to remove the mast step, put a small jack under the mast stub, and force it upwards a bit to break free of all of the caulking around the cabin top. But, that was the hardest part).

I also substituted some button head fasteners to replace the hex head ones that secure the step to the bulkhead. I figured that then, I couldn't stub some body part on them while fumbling around in the cabin. Last step before reassembly was filing down the hard edges of the aluminum backing plate for a similar reason. Looks all rounded and friendly now.

Syzygy is Eclipse hull #5 and it has a PVC drain tube (cast into the concrete ballast) that runs from the forward locker to the port side bilge area under the portable privy storage area. It would be worthwhile to inspect this plumbing, perhaps running a thin rod down it to make sure it is draining correctly. If it were clogged, water may accumulate in the forward compartment.

Also worth mentioning, water can enter the compartment from the mast pass-through (as previously mentioned by Al) and from the chain locker which has its own drain tube into the forward part of the locker.

Depending on where and how you store your Eclipse, rot may become a factor. I keep mine in my side yard under a $30 blue tarp and it stays dry as a bone in Vancouver, Washington. I joke with my wife about my yearly $30 moorage fee. I've visited Florida a couple of times while I worked for Christensen Yachts and found the humidity there stifling. Kudos to those who can hack it! Therefore, not sure my moorage method would work there...

Observation: most of the plywood interior is painted on one side only (the side you see). I tend to overkill most things (safety has no limits as it were), I installed 8" screw plate hatches (5 total) into each compartment that I could not access. One under each quarter berth, one under the port and starboard sides of the V-berth, and one aft of the chain locker door in the v-berth. If I ever get holed I can access any portion of the hull from the cabin interior. Call me crazy... Side benefit, Lot's of extra stowage for items that are used less frequently. Or, for more lengthy adventures, extra water, food and the like. But, in spite of the bare wood, no rot anywhere. It even smelled like a lumber yard! Nice, freshly cut wood smells after 20 years. Who knew...

Bewildered: I am ignorant of your experience or history with boats, so I offer this in the most kind of ways. Older vessels often suffer from neglect form previous owners. But if you find a boat that ignites your passion, if you have suitable financial reserves, and if you have time to dedicate to the experience, repairing and refitting an older boat can be one of the most rewarding experiences obtainable. I know that most people only want to sail, but there are some, such as myself that love boat work almost as much as sailing itself.

Good luck on your adventures!

PS: I can post some images of the "improvements" I mentioned on request for any and all. Just reply and let me know.
PPS: Apologies for the novel - But I love discussing this kind of stuff!
PPPS: Almost bought a Horizon myself, but it was a bit too heavy for my tow vehicle (VW Vanagon). I love my Eclipse, but the Horizon is also a VERY nice boat. An inboard diesel in a small vessel, I LOVE THAT!

[kickingbug1]

 seems to me that com-pac dropped the ball on this one. if they would have incorporated a flange welded to the stub where it goes through them deck water could never have gotten inside. the afore=mentioned was worth approximately tw0 cents

[Bewildered]

I think, What you refer to at "the aforementioned" was worth approximately 10X what you suggested.  By the way,  Capitalizing letters at the beginning of a sentence is still appreciated in some quarters.

[kickingbug1]

MAYBE A QUARTER

[Syzygy]

Some images of the mast step I made from 6061 T6, below. Note: the original mast step was in perfect condition. I just thought I liked the alum to alum better. If someone wants a basically brand new after 20 years steel mast step, let me know. It's yours for free. Its the one I took out. Note #2: For those who do not have this perspective, I offer it: T6 aluminum is the metal that works like wood. Drills and cuts with the same tools as for wood. Just have some cutting wax so the blade of your jigsaw, drill, table saw, chop saw, etcetera, won't clog with "smeared" aluminum. Anyway, I just filed (a grinder would work, too) the corners of the backing plate smooth, then sanded it.

I also attached an image of the hatches I installed in the v-berth area. Good for light stuff in sorry seas (big lake?). Heavy things if the weather is fair. Boat dynamics and all that. They were easy to install and offer me peace of mind that those areas can be accessed in an emergency. Like anything I have done to my boat. Its a matter of taste.

Anecdotal: My daily driver Vanagon that I have owned for 30 years, is not the same machine I purchased. I have maintained, upgraded, and customized it to my taste. VW purists become sickened at the sight, and unabashedly tell me so. In some cases, they keep theirs in garages rarely used; an investment for the future. I am the opposite. My equipment lives and serves me and my purposes. To, boats are the same.

It's not that the original designs were incorrect or not well thought out, its just that people like myself are unafraid to challenge the status quo and "follow the road less taken". I wanted posi-traction in the Van, so I put it there (Now I don't get stuck on boat ramps). If I want an aluminum mast step, I'll make one. I love my eclipse, after all I trailered it from Maine to Washington state (3600 miles) behind a jenky U-haul with bald tires, malfunctioning tail lights, and a November storm coming in across Oklahoma. But, my wife and I slept comfortably in the quarter berths each of the four days it took to get home. We joked that it was our boat shaped RV!

Apologies for the worthless nature of "free information". Take from my posts what you will. Two cents is infinitely more than zero. Twenty cents even more so, an a quarter?

Keep on truckin' Bewildered. The Eclipse hull and cabin structures are solid foundations for restoration. When buying used, a previous owners actions and inactions will shape the character of any project, as well as ones personal tastes.

Stay tuned for future posts, filled with worthless information and images of other projects around Pat's Boatyard. Such as:

- Low profile centerboard uphaul cleat box, with free CAD drawings. For those who stub their toes as easily as me.
- 8-gallon removable water tank, case, and plumbing for the port side lazarette (I think it's in the standard position, but my boat didn't come with a water tank). Again, free CAD drawings.
- Lewmar V-700 windlass installation. Yes, it will fit on the bow! Back injury sufferers like myself appreciate the assist. Additionally, where the wires went.
- Dual bilge systems, one electric, one manual in separately plumbed circuits.
- Modernized electrical panel to account for solar charging of lithium battery system. And, why using lithium obsoleted the charging system from my 6 HP Tohatsu. As in, it'll detonate your alternator!
- Using blocks for the rudder uphaul.
- The new Ruddercraft rudder and refabrication of the rudder mounting plates in the transom.
- Mast base collar to hold additional blocks for jiffy jacks reefing including outhaul lines. My boom was equipped with three pulleys, so first and second reef positions are possible.
- Locking lazarette fittings.
- Slay me now! Replacing the teak grab rail with stainless. I love the look of teak, but I leave it to others who enjoy rubbing their teakwood with sandpaper and varnish/etc.
- Still in design phase: the optimal location for a chartplotter. I have seen posts on this forum of various solutions. Still thinking...

Anyway, off to bowl game prep.

To those who read and enjoyed: Thank you!
To those whose hackles I may have raised: Not intentional! There will always be folks with different perspectives. Just ignore my long-winded tales and know that some day soon, I shall pass away from this earth.


Picture time:

[Bewildered]

Syzygy,

Good stuff!  Very nice, clean work that you have done. I am interested in how you addressed the low profile centerboard block.  I am trying to come up with a solution to stowing the centerboard line in a manner that eliminates having it sloppily laying on the cockpit deck. I am also not content with the jam cleat setup as it is not as secure as I prefer in the thin waters that I sail upon.  Another item of interest is how you installed the lazarette lockers with locking mechanisms.  I will soon be doing that as well as I keep a pricey lithium battery in the stb locker for my electric outboard.  I recently replaced my dried out and decrepit teak handrails with new teak. There is a challenge doing this job that is presented by the increased curve of the forward sections of the hand rails. Stainless replacements would obviously not work in the existing holes.  Thanks again for the photos.

[kickingbug1]

very well done

[Syzygy]

Centerboard uphaul box: If you do not like cutting into your boat, read no further.

The system that was installed, likely from the factory, is a piece of PVC pipe that is glassed into the centerboard box on the lower end, and penetrates the deck on the upper end through a hole in the deck. On top of this, there is a rubber gasket, then a wooden plate, and finally, a clam cleat. The clam cleat has a small roller on the forward end that directs the line downward into the tubing.

On my boat, the cleat roller had jammed from lack of maintenance. This caused the roller to flat spot and the uphaul pendant had become frayed. When thinking about solutions, (to this as well as any issue) I try to take a step back and determine if I want to replace components like for like, or if I want to reinvent the system. Part of what I did not like was the toe stubbing nature (and ankle twisting?) of a component that resides on the floor of the cockpit and stands proud about 1.5" (if I recollect correctly). When I was younger, this situation would have been no bother. But as I have become older, I like to have nice solid, flat surface to plant my achy feet.

So, rather than replace the clam cleat (they are still made), I thought maybe I can make a low profile version.

Enough backstory.

I decided that I would inspect the area around and under the tube exit on the deck. Per a previous set of posts relating to this, I found a large styrofoam block under the cockpit deck. Apparently some may have this item some may not. I have also read that it is used to support the cockpit. The CB uphaul tube resides just forward of this block (covered in carpeting, by the way). I decided to make a box, made from marine plywood and coated generously with epoxy (first coat mixed with a bit of acetone to thin it for maximum penetration). Inside the box, there resides a metal cam cleat and an over the top block (removable for maintenance). The box is flush with the deck, but the top plate/cap is about 3/16" proud with nice rounded edges. The base of the box has a through hull fitting to join with the tubing connected to the CB.

I cut a rectangular opening in the deck precisely as large as the box perimeter. Using a Japan saw (a type of thin-bladed pull saw) I removed Styrofoam where necessary to fit the box. It wasn't too much and it cut like butter as you may imagine. I re-tacked the carpeting, drilled holes for attachment, re-plumbed the tubing, and epoxied some fiberglass on the forward end to secure it all.

Its probably way more project than most would care to undertake. But I have some plans I made in CAD for anyone that wants them. You would want some fiberglass/epoxy skills, some plumbing skill, the ability to make templates, and some relatively precise layout skills to make certain everything ends up where you want them to be.

As for the line stowage: I accept that there will be line on the deck. As a dinghy sailor for years, I am used to a veritable spaghetti factory of lines on my cockpit floor. But, I too thought of how to "hide" the uphaul pendant. The following are my abandoned ideas. 1) delete the above deck portion. With this idea one could have a powered winch below deck to raise and lower the CB. Push button up/down. But, in my estimation, too complicated. 2) similar to a powered version, a small hand powered winch could be used. This would use a small, sealed deck perforation and a classic winch handle. In the end, I decided I could live with a bit of line in the cockpit. If you have any thoughts on this issue, do not hesitate to talk about it.

The lazarette locks are external latches with a loop for a padlock. I had similar thoughts about what could easily "walk away" when the vessel is untended. Because they are external albeit low profile, they are a bit of a knee knocker, but all of the edges are rounded. And I enjoy the peace of mind they bring. My side yard moorage has the occasional unwanted nocturnal visitor.

For the handrail replacement, I bought some stand offs to carry the SS tube. The SS tube I got from Sailrite. The old mounts were single holes. I used the original holes, then drilled a second hole next to each original. That took care of the standoffs (I bought four ends and then however many it took for the intermediaries). I then bought a tube bender (the one with the large wheel and dies) on sale at Harbor Freight to bend the 1" SS tube (thick or heavy wall, your choice 6 foot long). By carefully bending the tube, I exactly matched the radius of the existing hole pattern (creep up on the radius so you don't overshoot, also don't go by the handrail radius once removed from the boat, it springs into a new radius. Use the hole pattern on the deck). I left the tube a bit long as the bender can't do the extreme ends. I cut the unbent ends away to the length I wanted. Using butyl to seal everything, I finished with washers and acorn nuts on the inside. I included some fittings to attach the Bimini straps to it. Anyway, that's how I made the rails match the existing mounting holes. If you didn't know the boat came with teak rails, you probably wouldn't suspect I'd changed anything. All curvy and sexy for those who like such things.

That teak handrail had so many curves I just couldn't see myself keeping it looking nice (and it did look REALLY nice). I have kept the more planer teak components as they will sand/coat fairly easily.

If I get a chance after work tonight, I'll try to fill in some of this discussion with images. But, chores could delay. I'll get something together soon though.

With any of these projects, I try to work to the standard of quality this fine brand of boats deserves. I also try to accommodate the future owners of the vessel with low maintenance, dependable systems that will aid in the enjoyment of the sport for years to come.

I may start some new topics/threads so that the projects I discussed can sit in isolation rather than be mixed with the mast step topic. Just look for images there.

Happy sails to all.