Access to fuel locker pipe

[dbybe]

Has anyone added screw in access plates in the transom to access the drain pipe from the fuel locker?

I have searched and though there is a ton of information on the scupper pipe leaks, I have not been able to find out how anyone accessed the short pipe leading from the fuel locker.  I have removed all the scupper flaps and sealed the pipe ends.  The problem is that the leak is in the body of the short (6" approx) pipe between the locker and the transom.  I have a couple of screw in access plates in my rear deck.  From these I can see the pipe I am referring to but can just barely reach it.  I can see the fiberglass work around this pipe is very uneven.  I would probably have to grind it down a bit to smooth it out, and then add some thickened epoxy, or perhaps some strips of glass cloth in epoxy. 

[crazycarl]

This will sound hill billy-ish. Can you access it enough to spray "flex seal"? I lent a can of the stuff to a friend. He used it on his aluminum fishing boat. A 6" seam was leaking and it worked great. It's been about 10 years with no leaking.

[bruce]

Some have removed the tiller horn to access the transom area. Don't know if that would help in your case.

Sloppy glass work around short lengths of hard-to-access rigid pipe is the norm here, plus epoxy doesn't bond well to PVC. One would expect some flexing between the hull and the cockpit casting, good place for barbed fittings and flexible tubing.

[dbybe]

" Some have removed the tiller horn to access the transom area. Don't know if that would help in your case."

Bruce, are you talking about the opening in the transom that the tiller passes through?  Yesterday I took out all the screws but the fiberglass liner in this opening is really bonded to the transom. I was afraid of destroying it in the process of removing it.

[dbybe]

A couple of days ago I sleeved the drain hole with plastic tubing, bedded in sealant, but am still getting a leak here. It may be that the inboard end still needs a better seal, but it is also hard to get at. I may add an access plates, just above it, in the seat. The boat is beginning to look like Swiss cheese with all the access plates to help resolve it. The best solution would be to seal the existing pipe if possible.

[dbybe]

This will sound hill billy-ish. Can you access it enough to spray "flex seal"? I lent a can of the stuff to a friend. He used it on his aluminum fishing boat. A 6" seam was leaking and it worked great. It's been about 10 years with no leaking.

That sounds like a good solution but I would have trouble getting all around the pipe. I can just barely touch it through a 6" access plate I added at the boom gallows support.

[Jim in TC]

" Some have removed the tiller horn to access the transom area. Don't know if that would help in your case."

Bruce, are you talking about the opening in the transom that the tiller passes through?  Yesterday I took out all the screws but the fiberglass liner in this opening is really bonded to the transom. I was afraid of destroying it in the process of removing it.

I have had that out (a couple of gudgeon bolts would not tighten)...as I recall it was a lot of trouble, but persistence with a sharp knife around the edges carried the day. I will have it off again to replace boom gallows stncions in a couple weeks, if you are still at it then, with an update if needed.

[bruce]

Yeah, I was thinking of Jim when I posted that. I'm not sure exactly where you'd want to install a deck plate for access, and if that's on a curved portion of the cockpit coaming. Simpler on the PC, since the coaming is flat. I plan on installing a larger rectangular deck plate if I need to access that area again.

You could (very carefully!) cut out a section of the cockpit coaming and use that as the hatch too close things up. The corners, which should be curved, would be tough but doable. You could glass a flange on the backside on the coaming to fasten your new hatch. But, you already have the tiller horn, the only issue there is the sealant used. Com-Pac generally uses less than 5200, I think. They could advise. In the end, I'd probably try to remove the horn, and wonder why they didn't think about accessing the area for maintenance.

No need to use a polyurethane sealant to mount the new hatch, or tiller horn. It's not underwater unless you've got bigger problems. I like butyl tape, should work fine here.

[dbybe]

I have had that out (a couple of gudgeon bolts would not tighten)...as I recall it was a lot of trouble, but persistence with a sharp knife around the edges carried the day. I will have it off again to replace boom gallows stncions in a couple weeks, if you are still at it then, with an update if needed.

When I had to access the bottom of the boom gallows stanchions I added two screw in deck plates just adjacent to the stanchions.  I first used a 4" but that is a bit small.  A 6" worked better for access but the outer ring had to be shaped slightly to fit in the space.  (Mine was for routing wires down the stanchions for solar panels.)

Today I will try and remove the tiller "horn", for access to the fuel locker drain pipe.  I am thinking a slim fillet knife might work to get through the sealant. 

[bruce]

You're probably already into it but FWIW my favorite caulk removal tool is an artist's offset pallet knife. This one by Dexter is similar to what I've used for decades. The blade is super thin (0.015" or less) and springy, doesn't have a sharpened edge (could, haven't tried it) but it's thin enough to cut through or slip under the caulk with some effort. The blade on mine in now about 2" long, 1 1/2" to the bend, having been bent, chipped and reshaped several times. The shorter length is an advantage for what you're doing. The tang is still tight in the handle rather miraculously. That the blade is offset is key, making it possible to work flat to the surface.
https://checkout.dexter1818.com/3-offset-palette-knife/?srsltid=AfmBOorUG1LznQDQjSmyC4-yVnFGsL-KrpALiLpHrfIUaKIukshN5mnUl_o&gQT=1

I have had some success with a Debonder recently on a some aged silicone caulk. Not sure of the brand and it didn't dissolve the caulk, but it did flow nicely under areas I'd released with the pallet knife keeping the caulk free and the knife lubricated as I continued to work. Any penetrating oil would probably do the same.

Never easy, good luck!

[dbybe]

Great suggestion Bruce. I had started to think about it but got sidetracked on getting quotes for interior/exterior house painting. I was thinking of using a fillet knife but figured I would probably ruin it in the process. Raining today so will probably start tomorrow, if I can find the offset knife at Dick Blick locally.

[bruce]

Yeah, Dick Blick would have something. With all the sideways force, I'm amazed my handle still holds up. Being riveted to the handle would be better.