Need help replacing forestay

[RedBaron]

When I bought my CP-16 it had an old rolling furler as the forestay. The furler is missing parts and the jib sail is old and frayed so I want to replace it with a standard jib setup that I can raise and lower. But to do this I need to replace the furler with a new forestay and I'm kind of at a loss for what I need to order. Com-Pac's part list for the CP-16 just lists "standing rigging" at $400 and I don't need to replace all of the standing rigging, just the forestay.

I looked at West Marine and I figure to start, I need to order 16ft of 1/8' wire, such as this:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/alps-wire-rope--1-x-19-stainless-steel-type-302-304-wire-price-per-foot--P012046793?recordNum=3

However, I'm unsure of how I'd go about attaching the wire to the mast and the turnbuckle at the bow. So I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction so I can order whatever I need.

I've attached photos of how the existing furler is rigged.

[carry-on]

What year is your 16? The older models  were 3/4 fractional rig. The later models about 1985 went to a 7/8 and a bow sprit; longer forestay. 
The picture of the hound shows a swaged stay. The forestay may be encased in the furler.
The block shown at the hound would be used for the jib halyard. the Jib tack will attach to a fitting at the bow or sprit.

[RedBaron]

I believe it is a 94. I never considered that the furler may just be sleeved over the forestay, that would certainly make my life easier. I went back out and looked and it at least looks possible. At the top it does appear that the forestay runs into the furler. The bottom though makes it hard to say whether it just runs straight through or not. I can certainly take a crack at disassembling the top/bottom of the furler and see if it will slide off.

[Cats Paw]

  If I could suggest. Remove the furler from the mast tang and bow tang.  Take the the stay with hardware attached to a local rigger for replacement. They can match the length as to keep the rigging tuned with proper tension as designed when the stay is installed. Personally I do not like to see turnbuckles or any fitting with rust staining as displayed in your detailed pics.. I see it as a sign to future failure. My 1980  CP 16 has 3/16 wires all the way around. A little beefy but that is fine. I went the other way and had a CDI Flex furler installed by Kent Sails in Michigan. It is great!

[RedBaron]

I did manage to get the furler off, so thank you for suggesting it.  Closest place I've found is about a 3 hour drive so I've been trying to avoid that option, but not sure I'll be able to now. My new biggest concern is the kink at the end of the forestay that I found when I took off the furler. I imagine it's been like this for awhile. So having a professional shop give it a once over would be a nice comfort.

[carry-on]

RedBaron,
If you can send me a PM, I will send pictures of the forestay and  hank-on jib tack connections at the bow of a '97 CP16.
Your '94 should be similar. Both connections are part of the metal work that frames the teak bow sprit.

[carry-on]

Sorry, I can not post my bow sprit picture.
Suggest you take a look at Sailingtexas.com. Go to their gallery. Take a look at  an '95CP16 listed on 9-15-10.
The ad shows the boat rigged with a hank on jib. You can see the forestay and bob stay connect to the sprit frame. The jib tack connection is just aft of the the fore stay.