She's dead, Jim! Or...another reason why NOT to separate the deck from the hull.

[bruce]

Interesting.  Com-Pac back fills the coaming on the PC (and I expect other models) with foam, not for floatation but for support. I never understood why this area would need support, the boxy coaming would have some rigidity, but I can see how this could help hold the shape if things were floppy. Easy to apply, no real downside, like additional weight high, except it makes installing backing plates for hardware a pain.

[philb Junkie19]

How your heart must have dropped when you got to the bow.  Looks like you are bouncing back with some creative ideas that you have been mulling.  The owner of Auklet is a friend. A number of us have traveled Down East to her harbor for annual junk rig junkets, except for this past summer. I was converting my 16 to the rig before I got the 19. The junk sail I made for it now flies on her Pep Hen with one reef permanently tucked in. If you decided to go with the rig there are great resources. I might have saved some old sail plan drawings.  I think a pilot house with a junk rig might make quite a boat.

My first junk was back in the early 90's. I bought a storm damaged O'day 23, no mast or sails. A blank canvas as far as the rig. I decided to experiment with a standing lug rig but came across a new junk sail that was close enough to work with a few alterations. Western versions of the rig were using flat sails without camber at that time. The Practical Junk Rig had just been published so I had some direction. The late Phil Bolger designed a simple wood mast and tabernacle for it. Today many including me are using aluminum tube or a combination of aluminum and wood. There is so much information and many resources available today,

Sorry that with all of your beautiful work you haven't reached your goal.  If you choose to keep the boat you certainly have many options and a solid hull to start

Phil
ps On another post I'll try to add a pic of my 19 and and another junk rigged 19 ft boat that was professionally custom built starting with a motor boat hull.  Having trouble sizing the pic down. We are on our way to one of those junkets.

[Chris D]

My two cents is cut her in half again and try one more time before you scrap her. Start at the nose and work your way aft while clamping her as you go.
Consider using nuts and bolts instead of rivets.
I had to "persuade" the sides a bit, but was able to clamp so I could drill new holes. Maybe yours will align.
I saved the stern/transom for last after I had already bolted the rest. The deck was longer by an inch or so. I then persuaded the transom to the correct position, clamped then drilled.
Then I pried the deck up from the hull on the long bolts to apply the 5200. Then screwed them down, but not quite all the way to allow the 5200 to set.

You've got nothing to lose other than your time, effort, and a few bucks on nuts and bolts.

[LazyDog]

I would remove the deck and clean it up and then use stainless steel bolts as Chris D suggested. I would do a dry fit starting in the middle and put one bolt on the starboard then one opposite on the port. Do this moving torwards the stern and towards the bow. One question, how did it sit before you started to fasten it?

[Hutch]

Ahoy, JP!

The weather is just getting warm enough in the U.P. that I started working on my CP-16 project.  I have the hull and deck separated, and I have begun cutting new bulkheads and bunks.  The only difference in my project is that I replaced all the concrete with lead in an epoxy slurry and glassed over in the keel. 

Anyhow, I cut the bulkhead where the compression post attaches, using the original as a template.  I noticed already how much the hull has already flexed and bowed out of shape.  Seeing your predicament, my first question is did you use the original bunks and bulkheads as templates?  I am now rethinking what I will do, and I may reattach the deck before I tab in the bunks and bulkheads.  Of course, this will not be as easy, working in a confined space, but I might avoid the problem that you are having now. 

Thank you for sharing!

Robert

[_JP_]

She's sold!

Sorry I haven't been back for a few days. I got overwhelmed with projects around here and decided to post her for sale locally, just to see what happens. Although lots of folks wanted parts, I was hoping to sell everything as a lot, with the hopes she'd be put back together. One person was interested in the whole package, and was looking for a project. He had a Compac 16 many years ago and shared some fond memories as he looked her over.

I shared the suggestions from this forum, mainly with starting at the bow to refasten, and he decided he'd like to take a stab at it and purchased the whole lot. And just like that, she was gone less than 24 hours after first listing her.

So, I'm "Compac-less" for now, but always have an eye open for the next project. Although.... I think I'll keep the hull in one piece this time! 

- Joe

[_JP_]

....

Sorry that with all of your beautiful work you haven't reached your goal.  If you choose to keep the boat you certainly have many options and a solid hull to start

Phil
ps On another post I'll try to add a pic of my 19 and and another junk rigged 19 ft boat that was professionally custom built starting with a motor boat hull.  Having trouble sizing the pic down. We are on our way to one of those junkets.

Hi Phil. I came across your junk'd 19 a few years ago (YouTube maybe? Or JRA forum) and was quite impressed. We may have even talked in the past.

I sold the boat yesterday, as detailed above. With the newfound room in the garage, I'm thinking I may try my hand at boatbuilding. Last year, I purchased Dave Zeiger's T16 plans, which includes plans for a junk rig option. Based on Phil Bolger's Birdwatcher,  I think it'd be a good fit for the type of boating we'd like to get into.

http://www.triloboats.com/intro.html
http://www.triloboats.com/T16_Study_Plans.html


We'll see what happens!

- Joe

[_JP_]

I would remove the deck and clean it up and then use stainless steel bolts as Chris D suggested. I would do a dry fit starting in the middle and put one bolt on the starboard then one opposite on the port. Do this moving torwards the stern and towards the bow. One question, how did it sit before you started to fasten it?

How did it sit? Well it was always on the trailer, and I wouldn't think it would've moved much while working on it.

Although I checked for level at various points fore/aft/amidships, during reconstruction, I soon realized that was a futile effort.

I had purchased SS bolts and locknuts for this job, but the thickness of the deck's lip varied so much that the length (3/8"?) wasn't sufficient to use for the entire job. So, instead of purchasing additional bolts, I went with aluminum rivets and washers.

- Joe

[_JP_]

Ahoy, JP!

The weather is just getting warm enough in the U.P. that I started working on my CP-16 project.  I have the hull and deck separated, and I have begun cutting new bulkheads and bunks.  The only difference in my project is that I replaced all the concrete with lead in an epoxy slurry and glassed over in the keel. 

Anyhow, I cut the bulkhead where the compression post attaches, using the original as a template.  I noticed already how much the hull has already flexed and bowed out of shape.  Seeing your predicament, my first question is did you use the original bunks and bulkheads as templates?  I am now rethinking what I will do, and I may reattach the deck before I tab in the bunks and bulkheads.  Of course, this will not be as easy, working in a confined space, but I might avoid the problem that you are having now. 

Thank you for sharing!

Robert

Hi Robert.

I did use the original bunks and bulkeads as templates, and made sure they were level to each other (and the top of the hull) when they were tabbed in.

After I was finished with the interior work, I ran across another fellow who installed temporary braces across the hull top, to keep it's form while the deck was off. That's a great idea, but I don't know how to implement it (for instance, the braces should be installed before the deck is removed, but then how is it attached to the hull with the deck on?).

After my experience, if I was to do this again I would replace the bunks with the top on. This would have to be done in pieces of course in order to fit through the companionway. If not the entire bunk, at least what's possible. Once tabbed and cured, then the deck could be removed. Either that, or install bracing across the hull top in the various places to preserve the hull shape, and then remove the deck.

In your case since the deck's removed already, perhaps lay the new wood in the hull and then temporarily put the deck back on, not completely fastened, but enough to line everything up. Only when you have the hull and deck flanges mated and lined up, then tab your new work to the hull. If you can't get all the glass work done with the deck on, get at least enough tabbed to the hull so that you feel it won't move too much when the deck is removed again. With the deck back off, you can finish the job and make it pretty.

A pain in the butt for sure, but don't take any shortcuts!

I got a feeling that this problem is more common than it appears on the web, and that others just didn't share. I mean, who wants to show the whole world that they messed up? My feeling is that hopefully I can prevent another catastrophe for someone.

- Joe

[philb Junkie19]

Joe, I think the T 16 would make a great project. My first reaction was puzzelment trying to picture how it all comes  together but knowing that Dave Z is a serious innovative and unconventional designer I kept looking.  Phil Bolger, (I has the pleasure to meet him in the early 90's when I had a project boat with no rig and was thinking about a balanced lug rig to go on the O'day23.) has used plumb high sides to give great bouyancy when healed. Looks like Dave Z writes about and makes advances on that concept to make that small no ballast boat self righting.  The Bolger Birdwatcher type open top cabin certainly gives a protected place to sail from. What really caught my attention was the boat on its side in T16 prototype slide show. It looks like an pretty easy build.  Of course you may have to get used to being stared at. And thanks for cutting me slack on my sometimes less than desired memory.

http://www.triloboats.com/T16slides.html

[kickingbug1]

    i thought restoring my 52 ford p/u was a project. it pales by comparison to sailboat restoration