midhull rugstrake

[john and candace]

We've sailed 6 other boats, 40 years with fenders only, and no dock / hull damage. We're considering a new Sunday Cat that comes with a midhull rubstrake. Initial thoughts are why drill or screw holes thru a beautiful new hull for a rubstrake. From online photos of 50 + Sun Cats, 16s and Legacys, we only found two boats with rubstrakes, and they are both brand new.
So then, questions: does anyone know how Com Pac mounts the rubstrakes onto the hull? what material is the rubstrake made of? does anyone have years / decades of experience with rubstrakes on other Com Pacs, any trouble or not? Thanks, John

[bruce]

Com-Pac will readily answer your questions, either directly or through your broker, about how they mounted the rubstrakes on the boat you're looking at, and what materials were used. That could potentially have changed over the years, better to know what they do currently.

The hull is a solid layup, I believe, no core issues. Properly bedded, above the waterline, shouldn't be a great risk IMHO. You could always order a boat without the rubstrakes if you felt they were a problem. As you state, there aren't many out there, and if they had been problematic, I doubt Com-Pac would continue to offer them.

[mikehennessy]

Greetings!

Stay positive and test negative.

I ordered my 2019 Sunday Cat without the option.  Happy so far.  Trailer sail and not a blemish on the hull.  Thank god for Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Regards,
Mike

[john and candace]

I did contact CP as suggested by Bruce. (See ps below)  About rubstrakes: Gerry told me their rubstrakes are the same PVC material as used for their gunnel, hull/deck joint. The material is long lasting and although it will lighten with sunlight exposure, it can be restored with Armourall. Rubstrakes are attached to hull with ss sheet metal screws and caulk. Screws penetrate thru the hull and are nipped off on the inside, then the stubs caulked over inside. Screws are spaced 6" - 8" and are offset from the screws used to attach the ss striker plate onto the rubstrake. They use screws in case the rubstrake ever gets caught on something; it would be better to pull out a screw than rip out a bolt with washer and nut. In event of damage, rubstrakes can be replaced with same method of attachment. I also assume new rubstrakes can be added to a used boat. Rubstrakes have been offered as an option for years, but not often ordered until recent years. They are intended for the boater who occasionally ties up to piles /piers where fenders don't work well. I never tie to piles, so I prefer a beautiful smooth hull. Some who use piles will benefit from this option. Others may like the looks of the rubstrake; beauty is in the eye.

  New subject, CP barrier option: While I'm writing, let me offer some information that at least three dealers did not know, or got wrong, which is about CP's barrier coat and bottom paint option. Gerry told me CP uses two coats of barrier, followed by two coats of bottom paint. For you water blister students, CP uses polyester resin for small boats and vinyl ester for larger boats. Maybe more important, try to find a CP with water blisters, treated or not; I could not find one.

ps: as a retired Professional Engineer I have learned it is better to set pride aside and seek advice from someone with experience, someone who knows, been there done that, than to try to figure anything out yourself, from scratch. This forum and CP staff are so excellent and full of experience and good advice I can hardly believe it. May I remind you CP owners what a treasure you have in your boat, users on this forum (especially Bruce) and CP Yacht staff.

[bruce]

Thanks John, or Candace, your check is in the mail!

Gerry and the rest of the Com-Pac staff have a deservedly great reputation for their customer service, and sharing construction details of their boats. That doesn't mean there aren't design issues that can be improved upon, but they make their decisions, build to a price point, and stand behind their product.

I have a friend who recently purchased a new 2018 PC that had been sitting on the lot for a while. She was complaining of the sail slugs falling out of the mast track, and the throat gooseneck jamming part way up. I explained to her that the mast can be damaged, i.e. the track spread, by folding the mast down before everything has been slid onto the mast stub. The Mastendr system is great, but this type of damage is common. I assumed the boat was delivered that way, damaged during the extended time in the yard when someone made a mistake while showing the boat. The dealer contacted Com-Pac, and determined, to the owner's satisfaction, that she had caused the damage during one of her initial mast raisings, being assisted as she reported by a strong, if impatient, friend. I didn't have a chance to inspect the damage, or hear exactly what they felt had happened, but the boat was towed to the yard, repairs made, and returned for no charge. Made her day.

[Tim Gardner]

Hey J&C,

Freshwater CP's that do not have barrier coats and are kept in the water will in fact blister.  My boat (CP-19II, 1985) had blistered when owned by one of the two previous owners.  I ground off the blisters, applied penetrating epoxy sealer to the wounds, filled the voids with micro-balloon thickened epoxy, faired the hull, applied three coats of high build epoxy barrier coat, and then bottom paint.  The blisters have not re-emerged, and my boat is in the water year round at Smith Mountain Lake VA.

So, if you are going to moor your boat or keep her in a slip in fresh water, add the barrier coats of epoxy.

TG