Launching "Sassy" COVID-Style...

[Joseph]

"Sassy Gaffer" has just been launched.

The article below describes some launching adjustments needed because of COVID-19, and the need to tighten a couple of screws attaching the Rudder Craft rudder design to the pintle-bolts at the gudgeons.

https://thewakesileave.wordpress.com/2020/06/18/launching-sassy-covid-style/

Wishing all an enjoyable and safe Summer,

J.
---------------
"Sassy Gaffer
Com-Pac SunCat 17 #365 (2010).

[ChasRN]

Congrats Joseph. Interesting narrative.

Your story of "Sassy Gaffer" is in many ways similar to my own Sun Cat launching in the time of Covid-19. I was only able to title and register "Cat-22" last month as all the Commonwealth offices here in PA were shut down until mid-May, which is also when the marinas were allowed to open up. Bottom line is that I didn't get her in the water until this past Weds.

Smooth sailing and stay safe.

[P-sail]

Hi Joseph,

I see you have the Ruddercraft foiled kick up rudder. I have a 2008 SunCat and am seriously considering this upgrade. Please share your thoughts or comments. I have the foiled replacement blade but want the ease of raising, lowering, as I trailer sail and don't seem to be getting any younger. Thanks.

[DanM]

My 2011 SunCat came with that same Ruddercraft rudder/tiller assembly, the previous owner installed it. My one problem with it is that the system that is supposed to retract it doesn't bring it up all the way. It stalls out about 20 or 30 degrees shy of where you want it (vertical.) I have to do an awkward reach back to grab it and pull it the rest of the way, while messing with the uphaul and its  clam cleat, usually at an inopportune time.. I called Ruddercraft to see if it was an issue with the gas cylinders, and they just told me the "two-stage pull" scenario. I've been yanking this thing for five seasons every which way and can't make it come up. This week I'm going to drill a small hole in the trailing edge of the rudder, above water line, and attach a light line to use for the final pull. Other than this one annoyance, I'm happy with the rudder. I never had the OE stock rudder on, so I can't compare.

[Jim in TC]

Our 2008 Sun also came with the Ruddercraft installed by the PO, and I have the same experience as DanM in raising it. The PO had a line installed as Dan suggests but I removed it and bring the rudder up the final bit with a boat hook. I just wanted to "clean up" some of the lines back there and would not discourage adding it (it did bring the rudder right up...). I tinkered with that double pull for some time while on the hard, and stressed everything so much that I expect it is how one of the pintles broke off. Repair was a quick weld by a local shop.

I have no complaints about performance but have no way to compare with the stock rudder.

[Joseph]

Hi P-Sail,

I see that Dan and Jim have preempted my reply. My experience is similar to theirs. I think that the Ruddercraft improves performance and reduces weatherhelm. On the other hand, the SunCat is hardly a racing sailboat and the difference in performance may not be huge. I think that the friction of the rudder blade inside the metal plate sheath that holds it may tend to increse with time in the water and that also with time the gaz cylinder may weaken. My solution for the time being has been to bring the blade to water level (with a big yank at the rudder line) and then "fish" the blade upwards by reaching it at the stern with the boat hook... My main concern with the Ruddercraft is that it adds some 3 ft to the minimum draft of the boat (i.e., with the certerboard up) thus reducing the possibiity of gunkholing in shallow waters (with the motor half-way up). I wonder whether Ruddecraft would consider designing a wider and shorter blade specific for the SunCat.

J.

[P-sail]

Thank you Dan, Jim & Joseph.

My "issue" with my current foiled rudder is raising and lowering. I have to lean over bimini and stern and push rudder all the way down, hold it there, and tighten the pivot bolt. Likewise, when raising, except I don't need to hold it down. I can manage now but this old body may not be able to in the future, hence my interest in the gas shock design.

I think I might purchase and install this winter. Its either that or fabricate a handle (someone on these forums went to a lot of effort to do that).

Appreciate your input, I will study further.

[Joseph]

Hi Paul,

If the blade does not lock in place when lowering it, this can be a problem. So far, mine locks down after a single pull at the line provided I let it run freely and it does not catch in the clam cleat at the base of the tiller. My first hypothesis would be that the blade has too much friction inside the metal sheath. If the metal is not bent, perhaps some lubricant (applied while on the dry to avoid contaminating the water) might be of help?

J.

[P-sail]

Hi Joseph: Sorry if my last post was not clear. I have the original tiller and rudder assembly except the blade has been replaced with a foiled blade from Ruddercraft. Am considering the total replacement with the gas shock system strictly for the ability to raise and lower the rudder without acrobatics.

From the three responses, it sounds like the only issue might be fully raising to vertical. Since I trailer sail, I should be able to push it up once on the trailer??? As long as it comes up to horizontal easily and deploys all the way down I will be happy.

Thanks again,

[Joseph]

Hi Paul, Ok, I understand. The Ruddercraft contraption allows the blade to be raised up almost vertically. Take a look at this picture in the Ruddercraft page (which is actually the stern of my boat): https://store.ruddercraft.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=181_29&product_id=136. However, Ruddercraft does not provide any means for locking the blade in an intermediate position between this one up and the one with the blade locked down under the hull.

J.

[bruce]

Joseph,

Since you already have a foiled rudder, and are just looking for better control from the cockpit, you might look at something like I have done. There's been several generations now, two shown here, most recently necessitated by foiling my rudder, that increased its weight and the leverage need to lift. Basically a rod with a clamp on the tiller to lock the height of the rudder in any position. As long as I don't tighten the clamp too hard, it kicks up if I hit something. Details on request.

[bruce]

Oops, the last should have been addressed to Paul.

[P-sail]

Thanks Bruce. I have been admiring your engineering feats, the rudder control system and reefing mods. I am considering your mod although sourcing some of the pieces might be difficult, and I like the way the gas strut assembly lifts to vertical, both to be out of the way and to lessen weight behind axle when trailering.

No decision yet.

Regards,

[bruce]

No problem, Paul, I agree the full Ruddercraft installation looks interesting!

If you do decide to do something like I have done, I can help source the parts, on list or off. Mostly McMaster Carr.

[DanM]

Thanks Jim and Joseph, I think your low-tech approach of just using a boat hook is perhaps the most elegant (if not the most convenient)  solution to the problem of  bringing up the rudder. In my case, our boat lives in the shallow end of a mooring field that gets very weedy in the late summer, so the rudder sometimes comes up with some salad on it, adding weight. It's a annoying problem. By the time we motor to the dock, less than 100 yards, we have a massive wad on the prop, which I have to cut off with a special weed lance I made. Also, I'm going to have to dive under the boat and dig out the weed wad that the centerboard has pulled up and wedged into the CB trunk. Then again, keeping it all in perspective, on the scale of problems that humans have, I can hardly whine about my lake weed issues.