Hand rail removal

[rmonsma]

Does anyone know what is involved in removing the handrails on a Com-Pac 23?  They appear to be thru bolted through the cabin top and there are a series of nuts on the headliner under the handrails.  I would think that removing the nuts would allow for easy removal and simple replacement of the handrail.

I'm thinking of doing this instead of sanding and finishing in place.

Before I did this I thought some input from other Com-pac owners might help me.

Has anyone done this?   Thoughts?

Thanks for the help,

Roger

[steve brown]

I wanted to remove the handrails on my CP19, but when I tried to remove the nuts on the cabin overhead the whole nut/bolt assembly turned. I think you have to drill out the plugs on the top of the rail to get the bolts out in order to remove the rails. If you you don't have any leaks and the rails are in decent shape I suggest you leave well enough alone and finish them in place. You can masking tape off the deck under the rails and do your whole teak restoration of choice from there. My rails are finished with Starbrite Teak finish. I redid them today with a small foam brush along with all the other topside teak in about an hour without the tape. I keep a rag dampened in mineral spirits and a small putty knife to whisk away mistakes. Working on sailboats is almost as much fun as sailing them. Steve

[rmonsma]

Steve,

Thank you very much for the reply.  I can see how what you describe could happen.

My handrails are not leaking and other than needing sanding and refinishing they are in fine shape.  I've had enough experience in my life with trying something that I thought would be simple and having  it turn into a major project.  Sometimes leaving well enough alone is the best advice.

I will finish them in place. 

This is what I appreciate about this kind of forum. 

Roger

[Bob23]

Roger:
   One of the first projects I tackled when I bought my 1985 23/2 was the removal and refinishing off all the exterior teak. I had no problem removing all of it with the exception of the cabintop trim over the portlights. I sanded everything, applied 7 coats of Flagship varnish, and reinstalled using a bedding compound. A lot of work, but beautiful. Removing the teak allows you to also seal the bottoms of the wood, thus eliminating bare wood where moisture would love to enter.
   Have fun! Bob

[LConrad]

Just curious, how did you refinish that trim? Everything else looks easy to remove.  Did you remove it or refinish in place?  If you removed it, how did you do it?

[Bob23]

LConrad:
   For the cabintop trim, I had to use the caveman method of sanding in place and, again, applying multiple coats of Flagship Varnish. I masked off the area around the trim with blue painters tape, 2 layers to prevent drippage but also to prevent touching the gelcoat with the sandpaper. A sanding block worked well.
   I took a lot of patience and I'll apply 2 more coats next week before launching. I try to have her perfect at launch time so I don't have to work on the boat once she's wet, just sail!!!
   Bob

[Craig Weis]

Handrails on my C-P 19, from the factory...are
1-drilled and a screw thread [machine thread on the other end, the end inside the cabin top and held tight to the cabin top with a washer and acorn nut] inserted into each surface of the handrail that touches the outside of the cabin top. Where the anti skid is not.

2-Drilled holes with enough clearance allow the screws in the handrail to 'show' inside the boat.

3-HEAR Here! Not only are the handrails bolted to the cabin top they are also gooped down with 3-M 5200 sealer.

So...with a heat gun and a rubber mallet tap and beat and right/left beat on the hand rail till it pops loose. One can also just re-start the acorn nuts and tap on them till the handrail pops up then remove the acorn nut and finish pulling off the handrails.  skip.
It's going to take some doing.

[rmonsma]

Skip,

Thanks for the detailed i info on how the hand rails are attached.  The fact that they are "gooped on with 3-M 5200 sealer" is one of those tidbits that you don't want to discover the hard way.  After hearing that it sound far easier to sand in place and refinish.  By the time I go through all the work of removal I'll have them done.  I guess it's like the Geico commercial.  "So easy a caveman could do it">

Have a great season of sailing... the best is yet to come!

Roger

[ramble on]

I removed, stripped, sanded and rebedded everything but the eyebrow trim this past weekend. My 1992 had very little sealant and it was not 5200. Everything came off easily. I was afraid I would have to go through the teak plugs on the handrails to hold the bolts but did not as they all help tight.

Ramble On

[Bob23]

   Same here for the sealant on my 1985. The handrails, and all trim with the exception of the narrow peices above the portlights came off easily. After refinishing them, I rebedded them in bedding compound (Interlux, but I prefer Dolfinite) so the next time they'll be even easier to remove (next time? Yikes!!)
   Anyone read the book "Brightwork" By Rebecca Wittman?  Great book, easy read and has some indespensable advice for finishing brightwork. I basically followed her procedure for finishing teak and am quite happy with the results.
   Bob

[Paul]

Bob,
What did she recommend for rebedding hand rails?

I was under the impression that 5200 was for items you never wanted to move again.  Am I wrong?

Paul

[Bob23]

Paul:
   I believe you are correct. I don't remember if she addressed rebedding but I use bedding compound from Interlux. Comes in a can. Sort of resembles plumbers putty. I used it exclusively where the fitting or wood might have to be removed again. I have removed a few fittings that were bedded down for a year with no problems. This stuff never hardens. It is not an adhesive or caulk so it needs a mechanical fastener to do the holding-dowm. The compound just seals the joint. They say that 4200 is removable. I haven't tried it.
   Bob

[LConrad]

I just refinished the handrails on a 2000 CP/23.  Whatever ComPac used, the hand rails came off without too much trouble.  I'll try GE clear marine silicone putting them back.  That has worked pretty well on previous projects.  It sticks but not too much that it can not be removed later.

Bob,  Congratulations on your patience for the trim.  Any chance you would like to do another boat?

[Bob23]

   I'd love to. Send it on over with a blank check! Honestly, now that it's done, it looks great. But it certainly was a lot of work. I guess I can't help it...I'm a woodworker and just felt that the teak on the 23 should be bright. Guess I've been to too many Woodenboat Shows!
   Last year at a small boat show here in NJ, I saw a new 23 that was being delivered to it's owner. I was surprised to see no finish on the teak, plus it didn't have the dark, rich look that mine had. Maybe if one buys a new boat, it can be requested unfinished. Maybe that's just how Hutchins does it.
   Mine had Starbright teak finish on it when I bought it and it looked terrible. Looked like they applied over grey and weathered teak. For me, there was no choice but to start from scratch.
   Have fun...it's worth it!
   Bob

[LConrad]

Since you are  a woodworker, some of the teak veneer came off the plywood hatch cover.  The previous owner covered it with StarBrite.

I ran it through the planer to remove the veneer along with part of the next deeper ply.  I resawed new teak veneer, laminated it to the original plywood, back through the planer and finished with Flagship varnish.  It is beautiful now.  Hopefully the glue and varnish will hold up.  I really like the Flagship varnish.