Elcipse Rudder Lift Handle Conversion

[slode]

Like many others I have read about here, Sylvia's rudder lift handle was in bad shape when we bought her last fall.  After bending and re-fitting, and bending and re-fitting, and ending up with an S shaped mess that barely set properly full up and down, I figured there had to be a better solution.   I've always like the design of the Rudder Craft kick up assembly with the gas spring.  The Eclipse rudder assembly doesn't allow for a full 180 degree swing, but I figured I could adapt something with a similar concept and save some big $ over replacing the whole thing.  It's taken me a few times out and some modifications from my first concept to get it to where I want it but it works very well now.

It helped that I had access to a proper length stainless steel gas spring that was incorrectly ordered for a work project and been on the free shelf for a few months.  Still, cost on all the parts is less than the price of a new handle from Hutchins.  Link to manufacture website for the gas spring and end fittings https://www.ameritoolmfg.com

p/n's needed
(1)   Gas spring 875-4-200.  I used the adjustable force model because that's what I had available.  I had to let off quite a bit of pressure to allow kick up under a decent load.
(2)   Ball sockets EFSS13M
(3)   Ball studs BSSS-10E

First picture shows rudder in down position, held down by spring.  The ball stud on the rudder connection is through the same hole the handle bolts through with a homemade standoff to clear the casting.  This connection is made "permanent" by installing the clip that locks the ball into the socket.  The top ball stud screws into a hole that was drilled and tapped to properly set position of the spring to give just a little bit of force to hold the rudder down tight (not too much to make it hard to get the ball joint on and off), and to provide the most travel possible out of the rudder.   Leave the clip out of this socket to allow quick and easy removal.  The handle to raise and lower the rudder was formed from ¼" stainless rod and welded to a small plate that sandwiches between the socket end and spring body.  I had the material available; otherwise I would have just used the old handle and cut off the required length.  Loctite the ball ends on the spring to prevent loosening.

Second picture shows it raised.  The top socket is popped off the ball on the casting, lifted up, and popped onto another ball installed in the tiller strap.  With the tiller down near horizontal the rudder drags about 2" in the water and still allows steering in shallow waters.  Raise the tiller up past 50 degrees and the rudder pulls clear out of the water.  I wouldn't recommend long term storage in this position without additional support as these gas springs aren't meant to hold a load in tension for prolonged periods.

Last picture shows a simple bungee strap around the handle that hooks into a tap bolted to the strap that holds things in place in either raised or lowered position.  Without this the top socket tends to pop out of place while underway.  I tried some other more complex mechanisms for this but found simple is better here.  It allows raising and lowering without unclipping the bungee.

It's just as easy to remove and install for trailering.  And no issues with the rudder not staying in its full down position!

[alsantini]

Very cool and a great addition.  I just re-straightened mine for the 4th time and it is getting tiring, although I am getting really good at it. LOL  Look for a conversion in my future.  Thanks