First time owner with plenty of questions.

[RedBaron]

I just picked up my first boat, a 94 Com-Pac 16. Please pardon me if I use incorrect terminology as I'm very rusty with my sailing lingo and I haven't spent serious time on a sailboat in several years. I am trying to get back into it and also give me something to do with the family. I have been going over the boat before my first sail and I've found more than a few things that I have questions about. I included a couple of photos and I can take more later tonight when I get home if it would help.

1) My first concern, I have found 3 different types of safety pins on the standing rigging. Cotter rings and R Clips but also what looks like glorified hairpins. I have a picture of these below, and while the ones shown in the picture look ok, several others appear severely corroded and I want to replace them. So I wanted to get suggestions on whether or not I should use a different style of clips as well as determine what the proper name of of these are so I know what to look for.

2) My second concern is the Anchor line and is a two part question. As shown, the anchor line is running through a port on the deck which appears to at one point have had a cap on it. In addition, when I went below I found the anchor line is not actually attached to anything inside the boat. So my first question is, what should the anchor line be attached to on the inside of the boat? And secondly, I would like to replace this cover so that water won't come through into the cabin but I'm not sure what I should be looking for.

3) As far as Rigging the boat I think I have about half of the running rigging figured out. The previous owner had an owners manual but it is light on detail. Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video or documentation that I can follow to make sure I get the boat rigged up properly? The boat also came with a furling jib for the mainstay. And while I understand the basic concept of how it's supposed to work, having never used a furling sail I'm looking for additional information on how to rig it properly.

*Edit: I have added a photo that I took of the base of the Furling Jib. If someone recognizes it and can point me in the right direction that would be helpful.

4) Also, my particular Com-Pac has a fixed plastic window instead of a deck hatch. I would like to install a hatch in order to help with airflow through the cabin. I have been looking at Deck Hatches on westmarine.com but outside of size I am not sure what I should be looking for. Also, I'm not sure if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to install one.

I'm sure I'll have more questions eventually but this will do for now.

Update 1:

5) I forgot to mention this, but it appears the entire electrical system on this boat was stripped out. There is a light on the mast and the wire for that runs to the bottom of the mast and appears to have been cut. I've seen no signs of fuse boxes or anything else on the inside of the boat. And no lights are present on the bow/stern either. So at some point I'm going to be looking to redo the electrical system on board. I've seen the part list on the manufacturers website and I've seen the wiring diagram in the manual but I suspect I'll need more information than that when I decided to tackle that particular project.

6) The previous owner was laying the mast along the top of the boat. I'd prefer to setup some kind of system so I can have the mast supported and secured and not resting on top of the cabin. Can anyone make a recommendation in that regard? Should I just go pick up some 2x4's and custom build something or is there something I can purchase that would suffice and not be too costly?

[Jim in TC]

I will chime in on a couple points (as a pretty new owner of a Sun Cat):
1. On the shroud turnbuckles those cotter pins will work and are often the pins that ship with them; I like a ring there though since on our Sun Cat (and expect same on a 16) I am walking by that often enough that I prefer the cotter rings to avoid scratching myself up as I walk by. Might there also be an issue of tearing the jib? Don't know... I couldn't find rings at my closest hardware, though, and ended up at West Marine. Get stainless, of course, if you change them. The others, especially the corroded ones: it depends on where they are and whether you need them semi-permanent or easily removable.

2. You are correct about the cap, hinged where the funky pin is. Hutchins might be be the place to get a replacement - you can get a parts list at their site, http://www.com-pacyachts.com/ , and questions through the 'contact us' section are answered, most often, the day posted and (in my experience) by Gerry Hutchins so you know you are getting the right goods. I have gotten excellent information and service/parts from the manufacturer.

You are also on the right track with securing the anchor line! On our Sun Cat the end is simply run through a hole in the wood that defines the chain locker for the anchor line and chain, and tied off with a stopper knot.

3. I don't have a specific recommendation for help in rigging...but most intro books should be helpful, and no doubt you can find you-tube help. Hopefully someone has specifics...especially on roller systems. I have no experience with that kind of setup and expect there are some nuances to recognize in different brands.

4. Our used 2006 Sun Cat came with an opening hatch from Hutchins. It is a nice addition and really moves air through, though you want to be careful of burying the bow in a wave with it open. We fortunately had just closed it when we hit a *really* big wake and sent water across the whole boat. But I suspect the Cats tend to run a little lower in the bow.

[RedBaron]

I will chime in on a couple points (as a pretty new owner of a Sun Cat):
1. On the shroud turnbuckles those cotter pins will work and are often the pins that ship with them; I like a ring there though since on our Sun Cat (and expect same on a 16) I am walking by that often enough that I prefer the cotter rings to avoid scratching myself up as I walk by. Might there also be an issue of tearing the jib? Don't know... I couldn't find rings at my closest hardware, though, and ended up at West Marine. Get stainless, of course, if you change them. The others, especially the corroded ones: it depends on where they are and whether you need them semi-permanent or easily removable.

2. You are correct about the cap, hinged where the funky pin is. Hutchins might be be the place to get a replacement - you can get a parts list at their site, http://www.com-pacyachts.com/ , and questions through the 'contact us' section are answered, most often, the day posted and (in my experience) by Gerry Hutchins so you know you are getting the right goods. I have gotten excellent information and service/parts from the manufacturer.

You are also on the right track with securing the anchor line! On our Sun Cat the end is simply run through a hole in the wood that defines the chain locker for the anchor line and chain, and tied off with a stopper knot.

3. I don't have a specific recommendation for help in rigging...but most intro books should be helpful, and no doubt you can find you-tube help. Hopefully someone has specifics...especially on roller systems. I have no experience with that kind of setup and expect there are some nuances to recognize in different brands.

4. Our used 2006 Sun Cat came with an opening hatch from Hutchins. It is a nice addition and really moves air through, though you want to be careful of burying the bow in a wave with it open. We fortunately had just closed it when we hit a *really* big wake and sent water across the whole boat. But I suspect the Cats tend to run a little lower in the bow.

Thanks, I'm planning on ordering a Cotter Ring set from West Marine and I'll replace the corroded pins with those first and leave the rest for the time being.

I'll contact the manufacturer about replacing that cap, hopefully it's not too expensive. I could drill a hole through the divider between the cabin and the chain locker but I'd want to re-enforce it with something as that wood is a little thin and I'd be afraid of it breaking.

I found a picture I took of the Furling jib so I'll add that to the post in case anyone recognizes it.

For now I don't plan on taking it out in bad weather but I would definitely close the hatch if conditions were less than optimal.

[Salty19]

What some guys do with the anchor line, including myself, is to take a small piece of wood that is a little larger than the opening (this fitting is called a Hawse Pipe) and run the line through a hole in the wood and tie a knot in the end.

Since the wood won't get pulled through the pipe, the line won't fall out of the anchor locker and be lost.

The rigging is super easy.  There is just two halyards, two sheets, an outhaul, and downhaul as standard equipment.  You could add a preventer, boom vang and a myriad of other lines if you choose.

With the furler the jib halyard is probably inside the drum/foil and there would be a line to roll up the sail that would be run back to the cockpit.  What lines are there depends on the furler.  Look for blocks, eyes or other fittings for this.  I've seen some good and bad setups with that line. 

The shorter halyard and sheet is probably the jib.

Hutchins can provide a new Hawsepipe and you may want to replace all the standing (wire) and chainplate rigging  (bolts too!) if you're not sure how old it is.  These do fail and obviously they are pretty important.

[paydirt]

welcome to the forum
this is a helpful book
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Trailer-Sailing-Robert-Burgess/dp/0070089817
his model is a compac 16 so it has a few pictures of the rigging. there are different ways to do it but basically simple. I did add a stainless ring to the stern to tie off, then through the blocks.
as far as building something to prop up the mast, I installed two fishing rod holders on the stern above the rudder. I bought them on ebay for about $20 each (Stainless). then I just made a prop for the mast out of 1" or 1.5" pvc. strong enough to support the mast, easy to store away, cheap,etc. the other end of the mast I tie to the bow pulpit with a rubber bungee cord.
this site is probably the most helpful resource

[Tim Gardner]

Your furling drum looks to be a continuous line type. as there is no drum per se., but just a gripping wedge for a loop of line.  look up "continuous line furler"

[Gerry]

Suggestions are spot on.  I will add a suggestion on the turn buckles.  Your pics show a very dangerous cotter pin set up.  My boat stays in the water so all cotter pins and clips are wrapped in expandable tape.  All pins are covered.  I like sliding tubes over exposed turnbuckles.  Everything on a boat that is sharp has to be covered or you (and crew) will hurt themselves.  Mostly this is a matter of looking, figuring, and suing common sense.

[RedBaron]

welcome to the forum
this is a helpful book
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Trailer-Sailing-Robert-Burgess/dp/0070089817
his model is a compac 16 so it has a few pictures of the rigging. there are different ways to do it but basically simple. I did add a stainless ring to the stern to tie off, then through the blocks.
as far as building something to prop up the mast, I installed two fishing rod holders on the stern above the rudder. I bought them on ebay for about $20 each (Stainless). then I just made a prop for the mast out of 1" or 1.5" pvc. strong enough to support the mast, easy to store away, cheap,etc. the other end of the mast I tie to the bow pulpit with a rubber bungee cord.
this site is probably the most helpful resource

Thank you, I went ahead and ordered that book. As far as the holders, is this along the lines of what you have?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Stainless-Steel-316-Fishing-Rod-Holder-Side-Mount-Marine-Boat-100-Genuine/172438725666

I was thinking of building something that would use the Rudder Mount, or hang off the rudder mount and also support the mast. But I was concerned that would be too much weight for that mount to handle. But I like the sound of your setup better, do you have a photo of your setup? I have an image in my head of what it will look like but I'd like to see yours.

[RedBaron]

What some guys do with the anchor line, including myself, is to take a small piece of wood that is a little larger than the opening (this fitting is called a Hawse Pipe) and run the line through a hole in the wood and tie a knot in the end.

Since the wood won't get pulled through the pipe, the line won't fall out of the anchor locker and be lost.

The rigging is super easy.  There is just two halyards, two sheets, an outhaul, and downhaul as standard equipment.  You could add a preventer, boom vang and a myriad of other lines if you choose.

With the furler the jib halyard is probably inside the drum/foil and there would be a line to roll up the sail that would be run back to the cockpit.  What lines are there depends on the furler.  Look for blocks, eyes or other fittings for this.  I've seen some good and bad setups with that line. 

The shorter halyard and sheet is probably the jib.

Hutchins can provide a new Hawsepipe and you may want to replace all the standing (wire) and chainplate rigging  (bolts too!) if you're not sure how old it is.  These do fail and obviously they are pretty important.

Thank you, I ordered the new Hawse pipe from Hutchins. I emailed them yesterday with the picture and they said that the part is Item# "RA00D0030 DECK PIPE , SMALL, ROUND $36.00 EA", so I went ahead and ordered it. And I like that idea of using a large piece of wood as a blocker so I'll dig through some of my scrap wood and see if I have anything that will work and do that.

[RedBaron]

Suggestions are spot on.  I will add a suggestion on the turn buckles.  Your pics show a very dangerous cotter pin set up.  My boat stays in the water so all cotter pins and clips are wrapped in expandable tape.  All pins are covered.  I like sliding tubes over exposed turnbuckles.  Everything on a boat that is sharp has to be covered or you (and crew) will hurt themselves.  Mostly this is a matter of looking, figuring, and suing common sense.

Yeah, I'm not a fan with how those are setup, I already ordered new pins and I plan on replacing the corroded pins first followed by the ones pictured.

[RedBaron]

Your furling drum looks to be a continuous line type. as there is no drum per se., but just a gripping wedge for a loop of line.  look up "continuous line furler"

Thank you, this is the first furler I've ever used so I've got some learning to do.

[greg988]

Hi there,
To answer number 6, I made a small support out of wood that attaches to the mast step.  It holds the mast about 4 inches above the cabin top sliding door and is even in height with the rudder mount.  It's secure and keeps the mast off the boat itself, so no scratches.  I have also changed out some of the hardware to stainless easy latch pins and eye hooks latches.  Makes rigging a bit quicker and easier especially if alone.  I'm also fairly new to my CP16, bought her last summer so still learning. 

[RedBaron]

Hi there,
To answer number 6, I made a small support out of wood that attaches to the mast step.  It holds the mast about 4 inches above the cabin top sliding door and is even in height with the rudder mount.  It's secure and keeps the mast off the boat itself, so no scratches.  I have also changed out some of the hardware to stainless easy latch pins and eye hooks latches.  Makes rigging a bit quicker and easier especially if alone.  I'm also fairly new to my CP16, bought her last summer so still learning.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? I've seen a couple of examples but nothing I really like yet. I figured I would put something in the mast step and tie off to the bow railing. The rudder mount though has me particularly stumped.

[RedBaron]

I was finally able to get the boat in the water and spend some quality time with it. Unfortunately the wind was almost non-existent so I didn't get to go very far. Wife took some photos from her phone. Since this was my first solo sail in probably 20 years I had my hands full and wasn't snapping photos.

[Yamaha33410]

scanning through this thread, i'm going to concur on changing the chain plate bolts just so you know...

I was using my boat heavily every weekend for months, one day I was climbing in before leaving loading stuff up, found a nut on the cabin floor from the chain plate bolt that just sheared... I went to change the remaining three bolts, two broke as soon as I put any force on them... Stainless looks good until its not... Mind you this was the weekend after I spent 3 days on the boat sailing down in the Key Largo... Thank god nothing broke that far way from home bsae LOL

even some Lowe's or Home Depot stainless bolts are fine, you might spend like 6 bucks to keep the mast from falling on someone or causing hundreds in repairs plus the hours of labor to the mast step or whatever else it bangs on the way down(hopefully not your head)