tips on oil and filter change

[Rich]

I recently bought a ComPac 27 and need to learn how to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, etc. as my boat did not have a spring conditioning.  I bought if off the hard.   I have a Universal M12 engine.

Are there "how to" step by step guides for such engine maintenance I might access?  Youtube has some generic videos about such oil change, etc, but none that I can find for my engine.  I've not watched many yet--perhaps I'll find what I need.

Also, I'd like to find other ComPac owners in Annapolis who might kindly mentor me. So far, I've not found any Annapolis ComPac owners group.

Many thanks!
Rich

[wes]

I was fortunate to have another 27 owner show me the ropes in person (thanks, Charlie). I also have an original Universal owner's manual, which I believe you can still buy via the Westerbeke web site. Not sure it's of much use for oil changing though.

It's pretty much like changing the oil in a car, except that you can't crawl under the engine so you need a way to pump out the oil. 27 owners have rigged various combinations of gizmos to connect to that odd rubber hose that's attached to the sump plug on the bottom of the engine. Charlie prefers a little pump driven by an electric drill, with a hose to match the one on the engine. There's another school of thought that you should remove and throw away that engine hose and install a regular sump plug bolt (metric, like everything else on the Universal, which is built on a Japanese Kubota block), then stick a tube down the dipstick hole to suction the oil out. That's my intention soon. The engine hose is notorious for leaking.

Then you remove and replace the filter, which is a little tricky because it's directly under the alternator and you need a compact strap-type filter wrench to get it off. After it's loose, wrap it in a zip-lock baggie before unscrewing all the way. New filters available at a handsome price from Westerbeke, or just find one at Autozone that fits.

Then add new oil through the filler cap on top of the engine. This requires a funnel. Pour slowly; go too fast and you'll have oil running all over the engine. Use diesel grade oil. Universal recommended 10W-30 but all I can find locally is 10W-40, so that's what I use. It should take a little less than 2 quarts. After you add 1.5 qts, start checking the dipstick (on starboard side, cleverly tucked under the throttle control cable where it's very difficult to pull out) and proceed with caution until it reads full.

Don't be freaked out by how dirty the oil is, and how quickly the new oil gets similarly dirty. This is apparently normal for diesels.

Happy to answer followup questions. Or maybe another 27 guy closer to Annapolis will give you a tutorial in person (I'm in NC).

Wes

[BobK]

I agree with Wes on the oil and filter change.  The fuel filter is a little harder.  You will need a container of diesel fuel to fill the new filter to help bleed the air out of the  system since the electric fuel pump is located on the engine side of the filter and cannot pump air.  The easy solution is to install an outboard style squeeze bulb between the fuel tank and the fuel filter.  After installing the new filter loosen the air bleed bolt at the top of the filter housing, squeeze the bulb until fuel comes out then tighten the air bleed bolt.
Unfortunately fuel filters seem to clog in rough weather at inopportune times.  The squeeze bulb makes life much simpler at these times.
BobK   

[deisher6]

I still look in on ComPac stuff now and again.

If you change oil and filter...after you put enough oil to show full on the dip stick, run the engine enough to fill up the new filter.  Then fill it up to the top mark on the dip stick after it sets for a minute or two.

Wes has a great way to handle the fuel filters with a squeeze bulb. Looks as if BobK uses one too...I'll let him explain that.  I did not have one.  I used some fuel to fill up the Racor and the filter on the engine.  It is messy filling them up all the way.  Then used the electric pump to bleed the system starting at the filter on the engine, then at the injector pump.  (On the latest Windrunner's Yanmar, my mechanic also recommended bleeding at the first injector. Which I do.)

regards charlie

[jimhuber2]

Hey Charlie--
                           I wish you had put the squeeze bulb on before you sold me Windrunner! :-)

[kevin27]

I have a collection of filter wrenches but I like the Husky 3-jaw for the M12:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Universal-3-Jaw-Oil-Filter-Wrench-HU3JFW/204762449

Mine were not deburred and needed some file work.

WIX Filters - 33390 is working for me for on engine fuel filter.
Purolator PL14459 is working for oil filter.

I found a belt at the auto parts store that is a little smaller than the Universal part and clears the oil filter. No more belt dust.

And a Racor 500FG does fit, I bolted through the bulkhead to the head.

[Rich]

Thanks for your replies.  Most helpful!

I am assuming from Wes' and other comments that it's not possible to just extend the hose attached at bottom of engine and let the oil flow out through gravity.  It has to be pumped through the hose in some way, correct?

Best wishes
Rich

[wes]

Rich - yes, I think that's right. I could not come up with any gravity-only system to drain the oil through the hose. There is very little clearance below the engine where the hose is attached. All routes lead uphill!

Wes

[Rich]

Wes,
Thanks for the prompt reply.  That was my impression also.  I very much appreciate your help!
Rich

[wes]

I removed my original hose and drain plug this weekend and bought a conventional automotive drain plug at my local NAPA auto parts store for the princely sum of $3 plus tax, which makes it hands down the cheapest boat project I've ever done. It's a metric thread as you might expect from the Kubota block that Universal used for these engines. Correct size is M12-1.25. It comes with a fiber washer.

No more leaks!

Wes