Help Needed: CP-16 Mast step repair

[Wayne J]

I recently acquired this CP-16 (1977) with a badly damaged mast step.

Please see pictures of the damage.  I'm going to tackle this project myself, as I'm retired and I love to take on new projects. I've got all the time in the world to do it over if necessary.

Thanks for your advice!

Wayne

[Wayne J]

More pictures (after removing the step).

Wayne

[Wayne J]

from underside (2 bolts went clear through).

Wayne

[JBC]

Hi Wayne,

Since you may not be in the market for another boat (according to Mas!), I will offer a little advice. My mast did partially topple once during a high wind while on its trailer (the ring worked its way out of the pin holding the furler/forestay assembly while the furled jib thrashed back and forth). My tabernacle mast step plate looked about like yours. The good news: it's probably fixable. Using a block of wood, after partially bending it back open, and a rubber mallet, I wedged the block inside the plate and got it back in shape.

Next I used epoxy and filled the holes and let dry. Then I reattached the plate by first drilling the epoxy and rescrewing the plate down with slightly larger SS screws. It's held up for years that way.

In your case you might have to place tape or cellophane between a block of wood and the roof, or something else, under several holes to hold the epoxy in place until set. Bolts are NOT a good idea...the screws are designed to pop out in the event of a dismasting. Assuming your damage is no worse than I can see, my approach might work. That mast step is not critical to holding the mast in place...the forestay and shrouds do that job, so long as the mast base is secure enough not to move around.

My .02.

Jett

[Mas]

Wayne, Jett speaks the truth on this. DO NOT use through bolts unless you don't care about the top of your cabin. The step should pull out in stress, It only serves to keep the mast centered and as Jett stated the standing rigging does the real work. Also I know you refer to yourself as 'cheap' but Hutchins sells a replacement step for very little. Once the metal has been fatigued it will never be as strong once bent.

Meanwhile, know you said you don't care how long it takes to fix but just getterdun so you can bring it to CBMSG, CLR or BBB.

....also no pressure but my friend who just bought her first boat, also a 16 that had also been demasted, has just about finished all of her repairs, which included a new step after repairing the step area on the cabin top, re did the rub rail cuz it was leaking, replaced bent turnbuckles, got a new mainsail and generally cleaned her up so she can go into the water this week! Jus sayin! She is gunna keep her at Regent as well. You might need to get yours there so we can have a flotilla!

[Wayne J]

Hey Rick!

I broke down and finally bought a new metal step from Com-Pac!  It hurt, but I opened up the old wallet!

I am going to use the 1 inch screws that came with the step.

Wayne (cheap)

[Gerry]

I agree...Do not use through bolts for the reason stated.  Idea:  After repairing the fiberglass, why not add a metal plate (stainless steel) under the step.  Wouldn't this add strength to the fiberglass and still allow screws?

[tmw]

For my own stupidity (see here), I routed out the bad portion with a dremel type thing, and rebuilt the fiberglass/epoxy, sanded, painted.  For the mast step, I hammered it back to shape as best I could.

Underneath in the post, so no extra need for extra strength, imo.  The screws should provide sheer (horizontal) stability, while not providing too much holding (vertical) strength, as when bad things happen (see prior post), this is a "crumple zone" meant to come loose.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Wayne J]

Here are the pics of the final project.  Glassed in new piece of oak and finished with gelcoat.

[Wayne J]

....more

[Wayne J]

more...   the gelcoat final color was a little off, but can be fixed this winter when I remove the mast.   The tint is very difficult to get just right.

[tmw]

Looks great, just like new!