Fuel tank replacement

[sclendenin]

Still in the process of buying a 1995 27/2. Waiting for the boatyard to move enough boats to get mine out. Little extortion involved in that story. I drove down and took a look at the fuel tank currently installed and it has a tag on it from Buechler Industries. I'm sure it is the original and it appears that Buechler no longer exists. I'm thinking that it might be wise to just replace the fuel tank and start with a known clean tank. Has anyone replaced their tank and if so what replacement did you buy? Did you stay with a tank the same size or were you able to get something bigger in the space? I took a look at the Moeller web page for stock tanks and they seem to have about everything. I am embarrassed to admit that I did not take the dimensions of the existing tank while I was looking at it and now have to wait until it travels 500 miles to get another look.
Any insights much appreciated.

Steve
1995 Compac 27/2

[relamb]

I have my tank out for cleaning right now, I will take pics and get the dimensions this evening.
I'm sure there's room for a bigger tank, but it might be a few days before I get mine put back in to see how much more room is left.
Based on my recent experience, I'm cleaning out the existing tank, and then carrying a spare 5 gallon jug of "known good" fuel.  I had to unhook my fuel pickup and return lines from the tank and run off the jug recently in an emergency, thus the reason for the cleanout.  My challenge is going to be to figure out how to affix the separate jug down there so it won't spill or move around or chafe and be held in place with tie-down straps.  The plan is to always replenish the tank from the known-good jug, then refill the jug where I can actually see what's going into it, and mix with the appropriate amount of biocide and fuel conditioner.
Rick

[deisher6]

Hey Steve:
Congratulations on the new boat.

I would go with cleaning the old tank.  It is easy to get out and clean up.  You are on the right track on starting with the fuel tank.  Like Rick I fill up from fuel purchased at gas stations where I can see how clean it is. 

Also remove the inline filter that Rick mentioned in his recent posts.

I have been happy with the fuel capacity of the stock tank.  The tank holds 13-14 gallons.  Only once did I wish that I had a larger tank. Motor sailing with plenty of wind and less than a quarter of a tank did not work out.

regards charlie

[relamb]

My (1988 CP27)  tank is 13 gallons and is 12" tall, 14"w x18" L manufactured by AFP.
They are still in business as RDS Manufacturing.  http://www.rdsaluminum.com/marine-stock-below.html







When I put it back I can measure if needed, but you could probably fit a tank 2" taller, 2" longer, and quite a bit wider.  On the port side you can see the top of the creme colored water heater, if you don't have a water heater you could fit a second tank there of similar size.

Note the wires to the tank gauge, I was able to wire the existing tank sender without modification to this gauge, and it works great.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MTI16E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The tank was in good shape after almost 3 years, except for the crud growing in the bottom of it which I've cleaned out with muratic acid.  Unlike the holding tank (same manufacturer) which has corroded through.

[relamb]

Actually the sending unit in the tank is this, it bolted right on top.
But I believe after I bought it I found that the original in the tank was already capable of driving the gauge.  There's a magnet in the tank that moves the needle.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MT95EQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

[sclendenin]

Hey Rick,
Thanks for the size information and great photos. Given the dimensions you provided I checked the cost of a replacement tank. The two vendors I checked, AFP and Moeller, both were over $250. Based on that I have decided to do what you did, and what Charlie also recommends, which is to pull the existing tank and clean it.
How are you cleaning the tank? It appears that the sending unit hole is the largest opening and it is too small to get much into, such as a pressure washer wand or a rag. I can't tell how big that hole is so I could be wrong. Are you using something like muriatic acid and let it slosh around in there for a bit? I'm assuming there are no baffles in a tank this small. I have seen add on inspection ports like these http://www.seabuilt.com/, but they start at over $150, which seems pricey to essentially add a blank flange and I'm going to keep investigation a cheaper way to add a large inspection port while I have the tank out.
I am also going to follow up on your idea of creating a stable semi-permanent storage location for the 5 gallon fuel tank in the cockpit locker. The idea of buying the fuel from a road gas station into the can and then filling from the can through a good filtering funnel makes sense to me. Locating the 5 gallon can where it can most easily be used in an emergency also makes perfect sense.
Thanks again.

[relamb]

My tank was 2/3rds full, but we were able to get it out without draining it, and then I dumped it using a large funnel into two jerry jugs.  What little was left in the very bottom I dumped out on weeds growing in my gravel drive.  Nothing much came out as far as gunk.  I then put in a little muratic acid and sloshed it around for a little while.  Don't leave it in there long, if it starts smoking and reacting with the aluminum you'll eat a hole in the tank.  I then put in a few inches of water and sloshed it around, and the acid seemed to loosen up a lot of crud that floated out.  I mixed up some simple green soap and water and filled the tank and let that set overnight, and also stuck a pressure washer down the fill hole and sprayed as much as I could.  None of these seemed to dislodge much else, but looking down through the hole there still seems to be a stain on the bottom of the tank.  So then I put a small amount of gasoline in the tank and let that set for a couple of days.  Seems most of the gunk is out, it might just be discoloration.  My son has a usb camera/borescope, I'm going to look inside the tank with that today and see what's in there now.
The fuel I poured into jugs seems to be pretty clean, like most of the gunk was glued to the bottom of the tank or stuck in the pickup screen.
Its sitting to settle for almost a week now, I'm going to pour it through a filter and reuse it.  If not in the boat, in my truck.
By the way, I think I got the idea for always filling up from a jerry jug from one of Charlies old posts, it makes sense to me.
I have a diesel truck with 255,000 miles and have never had a fuel issue.  I don't use additives or anything.  But in the boat I'm going to start mixing the biocide and lubricide in the jug, just in case.  My truck doesn't set for weeks or months unused.

...to be continued
Rick

[relamb]

After all the cleaning, it still looked like there was a film and stains on the bottom of the tank in some places, and on the sides.  Letting a little gasoline soak in there didn't seem to dissolve it.   What did work was a spray can of Gunk engine cleaner.  I sprayed it in, rotated the tank so that it would set on each side and bottom, then sprayed the whole thing out with the pressure washer.  That cleaned up everything good as new inside.    Letting it drain and dry out, and then it's ready to reinstall.

[sclendenin]

Thanks Rick. I'll likely follow right in your footsteps with the cleaning process you describe. I ran across a new sending unit today in a store and it gave me a better idea of the size of the access hole. As you mention it seems I can get a pressure washer nozzle down in there. Good tip on using the Gunk spray. I appreciate all your help.

Steve

[relamb]

Actually I had not taken the sending unit out before, but used the pressure washer through the larger fill opening.  Today I went ahead and took out the sending unit, and through that hole you can easily fit the pressure washer, as well as shine a flashlight in the fill opening and look into the sending unit hole and see most of the tank.  Doing it again, I would just use the muratic acid for a few seconds, then go with the Gunk and pressure washer.  DO NOT leave the acid in long.  I cleaned my aluminum holding tank, which was corroding through anyway, in the hopes of salvaging it.  I left the acid in for a few minutes and smoke started rolling out of the tank and it ate right through the bottom in the weak spots.  Maybe Gunk will clean it out without even using the acid.

[sclendenin]

I ran across another option this morning to ease the tank cleaning. There are add on fuel tank inspection ports that create a large ( 4" or more) opening that you could actually put your hand through and scrub the tank wall manually. I originally saw them at their manufacturer Seabilt, but it was $152.00 for the 6" port( 4"opening). I ran across what seems to be the same plate from a third party vendor http://www.downwindmarine.com/SeaBuilt-Tank-Access-Plates-p-91002326.html selling the 6" stainless for $107.00. I am considering this option because I don't currently own a pressure washer and would have to spend at least $107.00 to buy a pressure washer. I suspect that even though I could get the washer head into the tank I might not be able to hit all areas or see 100% of the tank interior. I'm thinking that if I put in the 4" opening I can reach into the tank with my hand and see the entire interior more easily.
I have noticed that Catalina offers these inspection ports as options on their fuel tanks. too bad it is not standard as it would seem to make the job easier.

Steve

[relamb]

The inspection port looks like a good option.

[deisher6]

I rinsed out the tank, after removing all fittings, two times with Muratic acid using 1/2 gallon each time. (since I had to buy gallon)  Rick is right do not leave it in for very long.  Afterward I stuck a hose in the tank and flushed it with water for several minutes then dried out the tank with a heat gun.  There was sort of a grey film left on the inside.  I thought that it was etched aluminum.  I wish that I would have known or thought about the Gunk.

You could always go to a car wash and use one of the pressure washers.

I pumped out about 10 gallons of diesel, real ugly stuff, from the tank when I first bought the boat.  I then filled it up and had to pump out another 10 gallons when I finally cleaned the tank.  I gave all the diesel to a local broker/jack of all trades who regularly polishes up old diesel and burns it in his son's VW Golf.  He in turn gave me a good deal on the boat's name.

Checking the fuel level on top of the tank does get old, where did you mount the gauge?

regards charlie

[relamb]

The fuel gauge is mounted under the companionway step next to the racor fuel filter.  I don't really need to be looking at it much.  It does have a backlight.
I mounted it in a standard automotive instrument pod https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4KRIO8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .   The second hole is for a digital voltmeter so that I can check battery voltages, I haven't mounted it yet.

Note also the fuse bank mounted above the main breaker panel.  I feed the instrumentation (fuel gauge, depthsounder, autopilot, etc) from one 15 amp breaker labelled "Instruments"  in the original panel, to this fuse bank, where each instrument is then individually fused.  If I lose one, I don't lose them all.  I will be mounting a hinged lexan guard/cover plate over these fuses.

[Jma1_nemo]

I removed and cleaned my tank last fall. There was already a clean-out port on top and all it is, is a round aluminum plate with many drilled and tapped holes. I went to NAPA & bought a sheet of fuel gasket material for $2 bucks and cut it to fit the plate. I would guess that the PO took a large hole saw and made the hole and then cut a plate to cover it. Seems that could be done for quite a bit less than $100 bucks. Will post a pic as soon as I find it.