Outboard motor bracket

[philb Junkie19]

It was time to replace outboard motor and motor bracket on my CP19. The '83, 8hp long shaft Evinrudewas on its way out. I found an '83, 7 ½ hp Johnson extra long shaft sail master used in fresh water and in amazing shape for the year. The extra length should help some to keep the prop in the water when seas kick up.  The old ob bracket is little wobbly and the springs are giving out and make lifting the 60+ lb motor less fun.  (The motor that came with he '83 boat was the original rugged 4 ½ hp  LS Johnson that looked almost identical to the 8 hp and weighed just a few lbs less)

I have a small dilemma My kids gave me a great gift card for the local marine supply store that covers the cost plus of a new, 175 dollar motor bracket.  Hamilton Marine only carries one type of  suitable motor brackets, the traditional looking aluminum Garelick 2cycle brackets with the narrow mounting base and single slotted lifting bar.  I see that Garelick also makes a 2 cycle SS bracket with a wide base for about the same price. I would have to buy that elsewhere and put out hard earned cash. I'm wondering what peoples experience might be with the the two styles and how much of an advantage, if any the wide base model may give in stability and ease of use.  One advantage to the narrow base model is that the existing holes in the transom will match up. Most models, including my existing one, have an 11 inch travel.The two I am looking at have a 14 inch travel which should get the extra long shaft out of the water but also would put it a little further astern when running. 

Also in installing, what sealant and do you seal just the bolt holes or use an adhesive / sealent between the bracket and transom? I do know enough to stay away from any 5200 adhesive here.

[MacGyver]

As far as sealant I recommend the Butyl tape. I am shocked as to how well that stuff worked for me in comparison to all the other sealants I have used over the years.

I would also make a plate for the inside from 1/4 inch aluminum to bolster it. The original is just some small washers which I found were pulled into the core.

lastly you might not need that much lift if you can tilt it out of the water. That is what we do with our sail pro extended shaft.

Mac

[philb Junkie19]

Thanks Mac,
I'll use the butyl tape and definitely a backing plate. The old long shaft is close to the water when fully lifted and tilted and I've been thinking I'll need a bracket with a longer travel for the added 5 inches of the extra long shaft.  I will try the new motor on the old mount to check that. I've been opening up the boat to do a few things but there is still snow on the ground to keep me getting the motor to the boat so that will have to wait a little longer.

I dislike the way the motor can wobble on my existing mount especially when all the way up. It's old but I mostly think it has to do with the 2 lifting arms being so close together. do others find this? I'm also thinking that with longer the arms and weight further out it would be easier to move side to side. The brackets with a wide base and arms that Garelick and others also make seem more stable especially if I use one with the longer arms. Maybe I am over analyzing this.

As an aside, among Garelick's 2 cycle brackets of the narrow type is one rated 7.5 to 12hp and one rated 7.5 to 20hp. Couldn't figure out why the 7.5-20hp was 7 dollars cheaper until I realized that there were the same bracket with the exception that the 7.5 to 12  had the longer arms and the 14 inch travel. 

[Tom L.]

Might want to consider this mount. Very strong and will lift an 80 pound motor. Catalina direct makes a couple sizes bigger but this would  do the trick. The bars are wide as well as the base.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/674/outboard-motor-mount-two-spring.cfm

Tom L.

[philb Junkie19]

Tom,
That looks like an excellent mount. Unfortunately it's a a bit expensive for me.
Phil

[Salty19]

Phil,

I'm pretty sure the stainless versions that Hutchins installed on later model boats, or perhaps as an upgrade, was a Garelick.

Here is one that would work pretty well, and pretty much looks exactly like the one one our CP19, except I think my handle is blue color and the one in the picture is red. Then again ours is almost 20 years old (wow, I can't believe the boat is almost 20 now!!!)

http://www.garelick.com/Stainless-Steel-Auxiliary-Outboard-Motor-Brackets-For-2-Stroke-Motors

I've read some other posts that have commented that the Catalina mount was "the business", but I can't really complain about the garelick one on our 1998 CP19. It will raise our 59lb Yamaha up about halfway with just spring pressure, then the rest of the way with just a little help from me.  Very easy/fast.  Zero complaints.

Note there are three models here, each a little different size so look at them closely.  A google search finds them for around $175.

[philb Junkie19]

The stainless Garelick bracket looks like a big improvement to their older aluminum design that was on the earlier 19s. Mine's an '83. The SS model is bound to be more stable and surprisingly at the same price. 
Phil

[wes]

I just replaced the original Garelick mount on my 1988 CP19 with a new one. Garelick's model 71056 (Defender item number 302167, $179.99) is an exact replacement and fit my transom holes perfectly. This is one of their stainless "2-stroke" models, although it's tremendously beefy and doesn't break a sweat holding my 5 hp 4 stroke Tohatsu.

Of interest are the instructions that you should cut one or more of the springs to balance their lifting force against the weight of your particular motor. This had not been done on my original mount and I really had to fight to push the motor down. Good to know.

Wes

[philb Junkie19]

Just got that Garelick stainless mount, 71056 for Brenda B.  It's going to be a big improvement over the worn and wobbly narrow mount.  I'll try to post a side by side comparison picture of the old and new one.  This PM I got the old holes in the transom epoxy filled and looking to install.

Wes, did you need a spacer between the transom and Bracket? Both old and new are listed with an 11 1/4 inch travel. When I set the new one in place with the block at the same height as the old (just about level with the transom top), the lifting arm / handle hits the rub rail and keeps the mounting bars off the transom. When I move it down enough to lie flat the handle comes underneath the rub rail with little or no room for fingers.  It looks like either blocking it or installing it lower than the original will be needed.
Phil
PS I know that some have expressed concerns about having their boat named after someone.  I can say for me, months shy of our 50th, it's a reasonably safe bet.

.

[wes]

Good question about a spacer pad. No, I don't have one and yes, the release lever bumps against the rub rail. There are several threads on this site about fabricating spacers from various materials. For me it's a minor hassle and I decided not to bother. A far bigger problem was the force needed to push the motor down, especially for my wife. Hoping to fix that with the smoother operating new mount and the spring cutting mentioned above.

Wes

[philb Junkie19]

Wes, What motor do you have? Do you know what the weight is?
Phil

[wes]

I have a Mercury (aka Tohatsu) 5 hp long shaft. Spec says 57 lbs dry weight. I think this Garelick mount could carry at least twice that much if necessary. So there's going to be too much spring tension out of the box.

[philb Junkie19]

The new bracket is on. Thanks folks for the input. Yes, I'm pretty sure  I will have to cut at least one spring but I'll try the motor on first. Cutting spring steel doesn't sound easy especially with little room to work.  I am Inclined to try it with the sawzall and metal cutting blade as I don't have bolt cutters and they may not even fit in the space . Other ideas?
Phil

[AislinGirlII]

Phil, you may be able to just 'disable' a spring by grabbing one end and twist it down and to one side so its not pressed against the lower bar and then it isn't engaged. I've done that before on a Garelick I had..hard to describe, but I think you get the idea..

[Vipersdad]

The new bracket is on. Thanks folks for the input. Yes, I'm pretty sure  I will have to cut at least one spring but I'll try the motor on first. Cutting spring steel doesn't sound easy especially with little room to work.  I am Inclined to try it with the sawzall and metal cutting blade as I don't have bolt cutters and they may not even fit in the space . Other ideas?
Phil

You might want to try a Dremel with the cut-off wheel for the lower end of the spring.

V.