A couple trolling motor questions

[lilyachty]

I have an '81 16 and I run a minn kota with a nice marine 12volt.  I top off the battery with a 20w charger with charge controller which as of now I move around to wherever is convenient mostly keeping it slightly shaded but safe in the cabin.  Its not too big for the boat but I cant seem to find a permanent spot for it without drilling.  And since its a low power boat I think this may work well. 

After reading some posts I placed battery in front of the mast support.  My previous location (at stern compartment) was probably terrible for balance. 

First question is does anyone mind detailing how they wire their battery to motor clips.  I saw someone mention something very general about jumper cables.  As Im not super knowledgeable about wiring I thought It'd be a good post.  Id like specific info about how to fashion the posts especially and what size wire or jumper cables are safe to use.  Im currently using a large troller 30lbs i think, and considering downsizing to a smaller one.

Also, the trolling motor seems to work fine in Lake Wylie, but I will be sailing her in Charleston as well.  Does anyone have input on trolling motors in tidal and salt conditions.  Can they be effective as a kicker in salt?  Can you cheat and use an old freshwater motor and wash it well?

[JBC]

I will leave the wiring details to others, but thought I would respond to your questions generally.
1. I use a 45 lb. trolling motor on my 16. On a lake. This only to get away from the dock and when approaching the same after sailing, if I choose not to sail away from or back to the dock. Given the weight of the 16 (1100 lbs) I can tell you I'm happy to have that much thrust when the wind is kicking up some whitecaps, etc. Personally, I would not want to downsize. I once put my canoe trolling motor on the 16 (17 lbs thrust) and it did fine on flat water, no wind; not so well in anything beginning to feel like a breeze (especially a headwind).
2. I would not think your 30 lb trolling motor would be adequate in tidal conditions, especially if you have more than you aboard and there is any wind to speak of, and/or strong currents.
3. Keeping the battery forward is a good idea to help balance the boat. I have sometimes stored the battery directly below the companionway and brought it out and clipped it to the motor only when I needed to use it. Works! BTW, I do have a cable that runs from the area forward of the bulkhead on my 16 III to a socket at the stern, inside the boat, and have rigged a clip system to simply connect the motor clips to the socket plug. Never use it, but it's ready to use if I want to rig it up that way. I keep a battery strapped down in the bow area for lights, and use another (gel, lightweight, 32 amp) at the stern for the motor most of the time.

Jett

[brackish]

For my electric start connection I use these.  They are inexpensive and wonderful connectors.  I put a short lead on the motor and then the longer lead permanently installed to the remote battery wherever it may be.  Connectors have great contact area without any voltage drop and allow me to remove my motor quickly.  They would work equally well for a trolling motor connect and far less expensive and invasive than a mounted plug.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpole-connectors-75amp

[Jon898]

I run a 30# thrust Minn Kota on the PC.  The group24 deep cycle is installed just aft of the mast (it's a cat boat) in a battery box that is wired with 8ga marine wire to a socket near the stern. The plug-socket combo looks like this one: http://www.cabelas.com/product/MINN-KOTA-MKR-V-PLUG-RECEPTICL/1646824.uts?productVariantId=3310004&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03562403&rid=20&gclid=CP-J-_qD29ICFRc7gQodlRMGaA&gclsrc=aw.ds&ak_t=C44EE40A59A3D0F205469553F22E0838174FF00DEC230000C085CA589976862C

One thing I found in doing this was that the wires on the motor are only 12ga as Minn Kota got a bit cheap with the wiring.  The socket os nicely waterproof and the plug locks into it well.  Another thread on this is at: http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=6805.msg49309#msg49309

Jon

[lilyachty]

Thanks for all the input.  Will probably use the clip(wire harness deal) method(although I hate to change up my wiring on the motor) and will run 8 gauge wire to the battery.  And I will try and keep using the larger of the two motors for saltwater conditions..

[tmw]

I'm looking at a plug/receptacle like Jon898 mentioned.  Is there an ideal place in boat to put this?  I didn't like having the wires run loosely through the cockpit.

[JBC]

You can drill a hole for the receptacle almost anywhere on a vertical wall beneath the seats at the stern of the cockpit, some height off the cockpit floor. Then run wires (I used 8 ga jumper cables) from your battery, inside the boat, on top of the outside edge of one of the  bunks, snug against the inside hull, and wire them into the receptacle. (Cut off that end of both battery clamps if using jumper cables to wire to receptacle). On older 16s, you can install the receptacle underneath compartment lid on the wall facing cockpit. On mk 2 and later, pick a starboard or port wall spot underneath the lifting teak grate.

Wire the plug into your motor cable wires, plug in, make sure your cables are connected to your battery and you're good to go!

Jett

[JTMeissner]

I had a MinnKota plug connection.  Ran the trolling motor cable down through the stern hatch and the plug was tied to the scupper tubes underneath.  Ran cabling up to the battery up front.  Had to add the plug fitting to the trolling motor, but pretty simple.

I have since purchased the Battery Tender thru-hull fitting, not yet installed.  "The last trolling motor plug you'll ever have to buy..."  Looks like this:


Instructions: http://products.batterytender.com/core/media/media.nl/id.25198/c.3854271/.f?h=de11725d6bc8d9e7a13b

http://a.co/3s7cKhL will take you to where it's available on Amazon.  You do pay for it (compared to what the trolling motor companies sell).

You can use almost any sized wire to run to the battery.  There's a rubber plug cover for the port when the motor plug is not installed.  I'm not sure I can explain how substantial this thing is, rated to 100 amps (UL listing in the instructions is 80 amps), 48V DC current.  All connections are 1/4" threaded mounts (can be wired directly), so you're able to change motor or battery cable.  This will fit to the side of the motor mount on the stern and you can run the wires internally up to the battery up front (if so positioned).  Hadn't thought about placing the connection inside the cockpit, but this will fit there as well.

-Justin

[tmw]

Battery Tender:  Now that's a fitting. 

I was wondering advice on location for the fitting (slightly smaller than that), and was thinking of slightly beneath the rudder, but above the seats. 

See the attached, if this worked, where the red arrow is pointing.  Any thoughts on if that's a reasonable location (as I obviously don't want to drill a gazillion holes).

Thanks,
TMW

[Tom L.]

I would be extremely carefull if you intend to use your 16 in Charelston harbor and rely on a trolling motor. When we were cruising through the area we would pick up a mooring ball in the Ashley river just off City Marina. We anchored once but  after that time opted for the mooring ball due to the swift current. The current is very strong. I remember telling my wife when going ashore to keep the dinghy tied to the boat until the out board was running. The current was swift.

Tom L.

[JBC]

My only concerns about that location are the contortions you might have to put your arms/body through to hook everything up from behind. That's one of the problems with changing out the main sheet block behind you in the picture, and your chosen location could have similar issues.

BTW, good work on the pointers/marks in the pic. Worked!

Jett