100 watt solar panel mounting?

[Blown Away]

Anyone have pics showing how you guys are mounting these 100 watt solar panels?

[HeaveToo]

My solar panel is a flexible one and I put it on my bimini.  It is ran through a Genasun GV-10 charge controller.  There are pictures of it floating around here somewhere.

I tie it on the bimini and it is easily removed.  I have no idea where you would mount a rigid one.

[Shawn]

100w rigid would be tough on a 23. A 40 watt panel fits the companionway hatch well and is out of the way but does of course get shade from the boom.



Anything bigger and I'd think you would need to mount on the rear stanchions. That is what I did on my Sabre. Mount was built with Magma grill clamps and aluminum bar stock. This is a good location as the panel is not on deck and in the way. It is also free from shading most of the day. Would make the swim ladder basically useless on the 23 and you would need to be very careful with the outboard position. A full kick up rudder would hit it unless you raised it up more.

Shawn

[HeaveToo]

After you fabricate mounts and consider the weight you add to the stern, and the fact that it makes the stern ladder useless, the outboard harder to access, etc, you will see that you are better off getting a flexible panel. 

If you want the best, go with Soloban.  I didn't and I regret it.  Soloban is very expensive but they are the only ones that I know of that haven't had issues.  My particular panel has been reported to cause a fire.  That is if it lies against the frame causing a hot spot.  I still don't leave mine on or up when I am not at the boat. 

It goes well on the bimini and it doesn't touch the frame rails at all.  Tied on the back of it there is little shadowing too.  Being in that location it give it plenty or breathing and keeps it cooler.




You can also see it here in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqDQ1VHNwVM&t=482s 

[Shawn]

"After you fabricate mounts and consider the weight you add to the stern, and the fact that it makes the stern ladder useless, the outboard harder to access, etc, you will see that you are better off getting a flexible panel.  "

That Soloban is about a $1000 panel though. And you only get to use it part time. I think I spent about $250 for my 100w panel including the mounts and it is always in place. But in my case I don't need access to the outboard (power tilt) and my rear stanchion is higher. The other option for a big panel is to create a mini hard bimini behind the aft stay with the panel being the actual bimini itself. Would give you shade when the sun is behind you and be out of the way. If it is done well it looks OK but this is obviously going to be a considerably more expensive option.

With the 23 I think one needs to really plan out energy usage and time to recharge and see if a bigger panel used part time makes more sense then a smaller panel that is alway in place. The 40 ran everything I needed. Radio, GPS, autopilot, pressure water and fridge when I was sailing. It just couldn't keep the fridge going full time all summer.

Shawn

[HeaveToo]

Soloban is expensive, no doubt.  It is worth it if all you have to do is tie it on the bimini and plug it into a charge controller. 

If you build mounts and a hard bimini it would get expensive quick.  Stainless steel parts are expensive in and of themselves.

I use 100 Watts because I run an autopilot, VHF with AIS, GPS networked into the VHF, stereo, depth, and I do things like charge my laptop, camera, and other items.  I use lights at night.  The thing is that I never worry about power on the boat.  Most of the time the solar panel is running everything and the batteries are staying charged up to the max.  At night they get some use (I also run a 12V fan at night when it is warmer and sometimes run that a lot during the day).

You also have to consider weight on the Compac 23.  The weight from adding a rigid panel and the mounts could weigh the stern down some and make it squat.

[Blown Away]

As always you guys give great advice, and suggestions, and I can't say thank you enough for all the help! I'm at about 70% completion with this project that included a complete top to bottom interior restoration along with all new electrical, ac, and water systems. I've been taking before and after pictures through every step, including the trailer set up and will be sharing them soon when I find time to go through them and get them posted. For now just working late nights trying to beat my March 31st splash date. Again thanks wouldn't be this far along with out your help!

[HeaveToo]

Here is a good source about solar panels etc:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

My solar panel is tied on the dodger, the wire runs down the frame on the starboard side and through a deck pass through near the starboard pulley for the jib sheet.  It runs from there to the bulkhead and to a Genasun GV-10 charge controller.  You can see it in the video I posted earlier.

I redid all the wiring in my boat.  I have a battery switch in the cabin and my house bank is 2 Genasun GV-10 6V batteries wired in parallel for a total of 220 amp hours.  That is a beefy house bank.

All of my wire was done with marine grade wires and connectors.  Most of it is 14 gauge.  I also rewired the mast, put a new deck pass through there, and added a VHF into the boat.  That was a big project but I am happy with it as it gives me AIS with the VHF and it networks through NMEA to my chart plotter.  It is pretty cool seeing AIS targets on the chart plotter.

[wes]

I think you mean your 6-volt batteries are wired in series, not parallel. Otherwise you'd have a 6-volt bank and your chart plotter would not be too happy .

Wes

[HeaveToo]

Yep...I always get the two confused.

[HeaveToo]

Here is another interesting thing to see.  It is biased but still interesting to think of:  http://www.lensunsolar.com/blog/what-is-different-with-lensun-flexible-solar-panel-with-others/

This is why wished I could have bought the Soloban.