Mainsheet cam replacement woes

[Whistlingdixie]

Hi guys,

I have an 84 compac 16 and I am trying to replace and upgrade the original mainsheet cam in the stern of the boat with a Ronstan swivel bullseye set up. I just spent an hour trying to remove the old one. Anyone know of a way to access the nuts underneath on the old one to remove it? An removal tips?

[Salty19]

Drill out the machine screws from the top?

I just left it there and installed a newer swiveling block/cam cleat combo just to the outside of the existing cleat/block as I ran into the same issue you did of removing it. 

[Whistlingdixie]

I could drill them out. I might see if I can get a hacksaw blade under the cam and cut it. If not it looks like I will be doing what you did. What did you replace yours with?

[JTMeissner]

I found much of the hardware on my boat (1975 CP-16) was only fastened with screws, but I think the rear main sheet hardware was bolts (machine screws) and nuts...  Sorry I can't specifically remember from when I had the top off and it was easy to reach the hardware.

Two options, you can reach up through the hatch at the stern and get to those nuts (a process used for when I added stanchions).  Or, one can shimmy the length of the berth and see the bolts from underneath.  Been there, done that...  Also for adding the stanchions.  I will not say it's not a tight fit.  I also think you may need deep sockets or the right sized box wrench as the space is tight and the bolts/screws can be longer than necessary.

There's a lot more light with the hatch open...  I'm not sure how many times I've crawled back there to finish up the refurb last year.





-Justin

[Whistlingdixie]

Thanks Justin. So it can be done. I tried shimming back there- tight. I was afraid once there I could not back out. I hate to have used hardware on my boat but what do you think of this . It was posted a few years ago.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/block.jpg[img]

[JTMeissner]

I've thought about exactly the same upgrade on my boat; so I guess I think it would do the job quite well.  I have already replaced the double block on the boom with a fiddle block, and a block with cam/swivel is on the shopping list.  I too debate new hardware or attaching to the items already there.  I would likely remove the unused cleat as it could interfere with the motoring set up (I use a trolling motor and need a place to put in a thru-hull plug), but then again, it may be handy to have a cam cleat back there (perhaps to assist with holding up a motor while trailering)...  On the other hand, I like to have symmetry...  It would probably bother me if the angles of the main sheet weren't the same on both sides of the boom (dang engineering background).

So, on the starboard side, I've thought about using one of these with an associated hood, but debating the use of the dyneema leads versus hard connections:


For the main sheet, something like this (which would have to be flipped for this application):


The springs/stand-ups are only necessary when there's no tension in the sheet, it will protect the fiberglass from scrapes. 

I've thought about these as well, adding my own block:


Or, keeping the set-up very similar but upgrading the hardware:


So, plenty of options to think about and debate. 

-Justin

[Whistlingdixie]

I bought that bottom one. I think we argue the best answer is to remove the old one and replace it. Going to give it one more try. I plan to go out sailing again on Friday.

I will say that using the block with cam and becket really simplifies the the rigging.