Docking with motor and rudder...

[Craig]

On my Suncat I had to turn the Tohatsu long shaft 90 degrees to in order to get enough clearance to get to the full up tilt position.

[Craig Weis]

Cycle, yep these CP-19's just keep moving through the water with the greatest of ease. And the CP-19 will sail fastest when the mast is straight up and down on an even keel. Not laid over. [Well, almost].

Anyone with a new boat, no matter how many other hulls they may have sailed MUST endeavor to practice 'sea trials' ... move out to where nothing is in the way and anchor a fender or life jacket as a point reference and try motorized full acceleration, slap her in full reverse, and try to stop. Do hard to port rudder, hard to port rudder AND engine, and visa versa. Do some figure eights. And stop. Try a figure eight in a reverse. And if you brave try a few maneuvers under sail. Note the speed in relation to the marker. Want to know if your sailing in a straight line? Look at the wake.

And for goodness sake, don't go out sailing until ALL that running rigging is working as intended ... That means no snags of the sail slugs in the mast groove. The main all the way to the top-O-Mast, and then use the down haul to tension the luff and mark the halyard with a line of Pentel Ink mark to let one know when to stop pulling and lock the line into the rope clutch. [ On the CP-19, construct a quick disconnect and short cable U-clamped to the stern shroud and to the end of the boom. Keeping the boom up and out of the way without the mainsail up. And it's a good idea when using a sail cover and the main left on the boom. ] Same attention to the head sail with or with out a furler.

Learn the boat.

Craig, " On my Suncat I had to turn the Tohatsu long shaft 90 degrees to in order to get enough clearance to get to the full up tilt position. "
Yea I had that same problem with my 5hp Mercury two cycle. The cure for me was to move the engine further off the transom and use my old aluminum rudder and cut four new 1/4 inch engine mount horizontal arms, simply locate and drill the same holes for the bolts and pins in the longer arms. Additionally the  phenolic block was moved 6 inches astern using two inch solid rubber blocks and additional two inch wood spacer.

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