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what is under the rub strip on my 88 ?

Started by Duckie, February 22, 2016, 01:35:15 PM

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Duckie

I've got my 88 CP 16/3 in the boat shop right now doing a thorough cleaning and spit shine for next summer.  I just pulled off the rub strip from one side and found that the joint had been duct taped on top of bolts that are holding the joint together.  I was looking for leaks, but the goo slathered on the joint looks great.  I wonder about the bolts though.  Water sitting in there might seep through the heads if they are exposed.  So, now I am wondering if this is the way she came from the factory, or has someone been in there before and put duct tape over everything on his own.  If this set up is factory I would be inclined to replace it as is, but if someone out there has a better idea I would appreciate hearing it. 

Al

Salty19

Its factory.  They apply 3M 5200 adhesive sealant along with the screws or rivets.  Since the 5200 takes about a week to cure, the duct tape is a way to expediently assemble the boat and not wait the week to apply the rail.  Otherwise the rail would be glued on making removal extremely difficult.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

carry-on

The owners manual shows a cross section detail of the joint between the hull and cabin/ cockpit. No duct tape shown. The joint is filled with "marine adhesive" and the joint is secured with nut and bolt fasteners. The manual does not name the sealant and does not say if the fasteners are stainless or aluminum.
I've never removed the rub rail on my 16, but several folks on this forum have, so I think a search will reveal fastener material and spacing.
$UM FUN TOO

CP-16 Hull# 2886

JTMeissner

Al, as stated, factory done.  Whether it's duct tape or something else, I removed the deck and had to cut through a myriad of repairs over the years fro my 1975 CP-16.

My tape was more plastic/dried out vinyl than duct tape, but not likely the true original.


Adhesive sealant in a "good" area.


Missed some rivets, and some of the holes were not perfect.


Rubrail hid previous damage, this was stuck to the deck edge by rivets and held with silicone at the hull corner.


The rubrail hid many faults on my boat, including at least a half a dozen repairs over the years.  I have cleaned off one half of the hull flange, and will remove the sealant off the remainder soon (flap disk on a grinder works well).  I will then tackle the deck portion which will take a bit more effort since it's above the head right now.  You need a nice "clean" surface for the adhesive sealant to work well, but I'm several weeks from that task right now.

-Justin

Duckie

Thank you very much.

That is just exactly what I was looking for.  This group is awesome.  As I mentioned, the goop in the seam looks great, so I think I will clean everything up and refresh it just a bit with water proof caulk, not sealant adhesive, re-tape it just for laughs, and put it back together.  I feel pretty confident about the seam because of the SS bolts every six inches, so I don't feel the need for 5200.  This boat is in remarkably good shape for a 28 year old boat.  There are almost no hairline cracks in the gelcoat, and the oxidation is negligible.  There is one cracked porthole lens which is next on my list, some poorly done gelcoat repairs that need re-doing, but not too much more than that.  I also have a bunch of repairs to do to the trailer.  Because I have the rest of the winter to get everything done, I am pacing myself so I don't run out of things to fuss with.  That being said, I can't wait to take her out this spring.  I always get a lot of positive comments on her at the landing which makes me want to make her the best she can be. 

Al

JBC

Al, you mention replacing a cracked porthole lens.  I have a damaged one I wanted to replace, but discovered the bronze colored porthole ring was glued as well as screwed on.  Talked to Gerry at the company several years back and he indicated those bronze looking rings are not available anymore.  I thought I would check before chipping away at that ring, in case I tore it up while trying to remove it.  Gerry indicated they have replacement portholes, but not ones that color-match the originals.

If you succeed in removing the lens/ring successfully, let me know...I decided to leave mine alone (just some bad hard goop on it I can't remove, but it's still water tight).

Jett

nies

I replaced mind with four machine shop made port holes years ago from my 78', you are weclome to them.............glass and rings...........just give me your mailing address if you want them...................nies

JBC


Duckie

Thanks for the heads up Jett.  I'm going to try taking one apart this morning.  If they are truly stuck on to stay, I will just forget it.  I do have one that has leaked in the past, so I have to do something about that.  I really like the teak lining inside the cabin and want to keep it in good shape, so my plan is to fix up any leaks and varnish the teak probably with semi-gloss spar varnish.  I'll have to sand out the water stains first, but the black spots from the wet nails probably won't come out.  I've finished the bright work and have to admit that the old teak looks great.  What with polishing up the gelcoat, she's going to look brand new.  Well, except for the gelcoat patches that don't match, oh well.  

Here's one.  I'm going to round off the bottom edge of the forward side of the companion way so I don't shave off my scalp WHEN I hit my head on it.  The boats that I have built have virtually no sharp edges on them.  I have skun off enough skin to make a wallet, so no sharp edges for me.  

Nies, I will probably get back to you after this morning.

Al

Duckie

  Well.... It looks like they are in there to stay.  I couldn't even get the nut covers off without making unacceptable marks in the ring.  I was hoping that I could take them off to simplify polishing the cabin sides.  I guess I will just have to take my time and be careful.  The polishing is coming pretty well.  I discovered that if I knock down the oxidation with 1200 grit wet or dry and follow that with 2000 grit, I don't need to go any farther.  I am doing all of the polishing by hand so I don't get too carried away.  I hope I'm not making a mistake by making the topsides reflective so the sun gets my eyes. 

Al

JBC

I had the same trouble with the rings/nuts.  Good luck with the polishing...I'm in need of doing the same, and as my boat sits on its trailer near the lake in an area with no power, I may try your hand polishing approach.

Jett

Duckie

Jett,

Seeing as how you won't have power I recommend that you buy a spray bottle for wet sanding to go along with the obligatory bucket.  I got the idea from watching SV Hideaway videos on Youtube.  Instead of constantly stopping to refresh the wetness of the area you are working on, just a quick spritz and you can carry on.  A sanding block with a thin foam underside is also a big help.  I am  only doing the smooth areas and leaving the non-skid alone.  That way I can cut down on the glare while still making the boat look almost brand new.  It is quite a workout for an old guy like me, and I have to take care of my old joints, so I don't go all out.  When I get to the hull, I will for sure use a rotary tool.  So far I gotta say I think the effort is worth it.

Al

JBC

Thanks for the spray bottle tip, Al.  Never thought of that!

Jett